nicats

Well I know thats the motor in my car. I thought you were talking LT1 is a program. Well I looked at it and its tooo confusing for me and 200 dollars to purchase it. besides having to purchase a cable or make one. It would just be cheaper for me to find someone who uses it and pay them to tell me.

nicats

This is the code we got. and I think its all I have to say.

Code 16- Low resolution pulse (distributor). ECM is not detecting the 4X pulse from distributor. Check wiring connections, especially the pigtail connector from the optispark to main wiring harness. This is the black/red wire that goes to terminal "A" on the pigtail connector. On the 1992-93 ecm, this is wire C5 (green connector). 1994-95 ecm, this is wire B2 (black connector). If wiring checks out, you will have to replace the optical sensor module in the distributor.

DirtyDaveW

Sure sounds opti related. You can get them from Summit for cheap. I'm running one now. If you get a new opti, I would take the outter shells off, take out each of the tiny torx screws holding the rotor on(one at at time so it doesn't come apart and roll around on your bench) , put some loctite on it, put it back in, then do the other torx screw. Then, run a thin bead of silicone sealant around the perimeter of the housing, then put the outter shells back together again. You probably won't have one of the inverted torx bits to remove the outter screws. No matter, just pull out one of the stock Throttle Body cover plate screws, put the bare tip in a pair of visegrips, clamp it down and viola, you know have a inverted torx bit that will go down into the recesses of the torx screws holding on the opti shell. THe silicone around the perimeter will seal it against water pump seal leak drips. Be sure to orient the opti onto the nose of the cam correctly. You don't want to get the spark out of phase with the crankshaft. To give yourself a little piece of mind just after installing the opti but before installing the water pump, harmonic balancer, etc, hook up all the wires and crank it to see if she starts up. If it starts up right away, kill it. You've got it right. THen you can add the waterpump, harmonic balancer, coolant, etc. If it doen'st start, you can pull the opti back off and recheck your orientation.

nicats

not something I really wanted to do ....

DirtyDaveW

There are writeups on the procedure and is about 4 hours if you have the right tools.

importsleyer

Has anything been found out about this as i have a similar issue.

tylert14

Well I just read every post in this quite old thread. I just put a LT1 in a nissan240sx. Well some where along the way some wiring got FUBARED and it killed the ICM and coil. When the wiring was wrong the car ran but sputtered and broke up bad under load and the spark looked weak. When I fixed the wiring the car still has weak spark, injector pulse, all that good stuff but it will not start. Funny thing is, I tested the ICM/ coil per Shbox.com when the wiring was messed up and they both tested BAD but the car ran. When the wiring was fixed they test GOOD but it will not run.

I know my circumstances were unique with the engine swap but I would swap the coil and ICM at the SAME TIME (bad coils can kill ICMs and vice versa) after all other ideas are exhausted. IE, the opti, fuel system, etc all check out.

One thing unique to my circumstance was that the wiring problem made the one wire in the MAF connector that was supposed to have 12v only have 5v. This caused the car to not start at all with the MAF plugged in, but with it unplugged it would run, but break up under load (misfiring, etc.)

This whole problem also caused the volts to drop a lot and be hard to crank at first. I believe it was from the excessive amount of current the faulty coil was trying to use while being turned over. This may account to why the original poster could jump start it. Mayby his coil was using so much power it dropped the voltage below what the PCM and sensors needed to function. he may also want to try starting the car without the MAF and test the MAF pins to see if he has a wiring issue.

JP95ZM6

Rukee, did you get it fixed? Doesn't anybody else have a successful fix to post after all this discussion?

nicats

I know this post is long over due. But this car got me so ticked off. After we changed the fuel pump the water pump went out. All for the opti eh? So basically its been sitting in my drive way. I decided this year when I got my tax check I was buying the parts. About 500 buck later......a few hours of changing the opti and water pump it started on the first try. Ran the code reader and not one single error! We bought the opti at Chandler Motorsports on ebay. It has a lifetime warranty and was only 175 bucks. Went with the water pump from Autozone since it had a lifetime warranty also. So basically we think there was an issue with the opti but it was also the fuel pump. Then with the water pump killing everything it was just dead! LOL Thanks to everyone on this list and the helpful tutorials on changing the opti. I love this place!!