LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Meziere Electric Water Pump.. What a piece of crap!....

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Old Mar 20, 2003 | 09:12 AM
  #61  
Smokinsometires's Avatar
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Hmm, after reading all 4 pages of this thread I think I will either go with CSI or an OEM pump.

My car will be a weekend/drag car.

If I stick with an OEM what sort of timing chain sets do I have to choose from?

My car has 92k miles on it and the stock pump is still going *knock on wood*
Old Mar 20, 2003 | 09:27 AM
  #62  
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If my car were still a daily driver and I drove long distances with it regularly I probably wouldn't have gotten the CSI. I don't drive it as much as regularly as I used to and don't usually go that far with it so I'm not too concerned about it going and I'm installing an indicator light to let me know if it does goes out.

If I stick with an OEM what sort of timing chain sets do I have to choose from?
Your choices are basically stock, LT4, or the LT4 ED and I have heard of one made by Cloyes that retains the stock wp drive. There may be other aftermarket ones that I'm not aware of.
Old Mar 20, 2003 | 09:30 AM
  #63  
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its the nature of the beast, an elec pump.. when it fails is going to fail suddenly. thats why anybody that has one needs to pay attention to that little gauge on the right(it IS on the right on TAs, right ) I have had mine fail a couple times for various reasons, and everytime my water temp got super high I just shut it off, and fixed the problem.
Old Mar 20, 2003 | 09:33 AM
  #64  
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Originally posted by GREGG 97Z
Your choices are basically stock, LT4, or the LT4 ED and I have heard of one made by Cloyes that retains the stock wp drive. There may be other aftermarket ones that I'm not aware of.
Will any of those hold up to 500+ HP and 10 second time slips?
Old Mar 20, 2003 | 09:44 AM
  #65  
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I came across a diagram for wiring up an LED and a buzzer.
If anyone is interested e-mail me and I send it out to you.
I haven't tried wiring it up because I don't have an electric pump yet.
Old Mar 20, 2003 | 09:49 AM
  #66  
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Originally posted by Smokinsometires
Will any of those hold up to 500+ HP and 10 second time slips?
If you are planning on that kind of hp I would go with the Extreme Duty.
Old Mar 20, 2003 | 09:58 AM
  #67  
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Simple in my mind


Track only car = Electric water pump

If it sees the street = Mechanical water pump



Jason
Old Mar 20, 2003 | 10:49 AM
  #68  
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Originally posted by RamAir95TA
Hate to say it, but the internals of a CSI are identical to that of the Meziere. The only difference in the two is the case.
Yep....the impellers MIGHT be a little different in shape, but it's the same stuff inside....
I've never had any trouble with any Meziere pumps.....why don't you call Meziere and talk to Steve and see what he has to say. The pump is warranteed for 10,000 hours anyway....it just sounds like you have something else going on, not a Meziere pump problem......
Old Mar 20, 2003 | 10:51 AM
  #69  
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From: St. Louis, MO
Originally posted by ucrazymonkey
snip....
Unfortuantly I do not have Meziere's phone number or a customer service address to let them know what is going on. I bought this pump thru Summit and I have already called them to get a refund. They rewally dont want to hear anything about the pump, they say is all they do is sell it.
Meziere Enterprises
220 s. Hale Ave.
Escondido, CA 92029

Toll Free: 800-208-1755
Telephone: (760)746-3273
Fax: (760)746-8469
E-mail: info@meziere.com


Ask to speak to Steve....I can't believe he wouldn't be more than anxious to help you.
Old Mar 20, 2003 | 11:05 AM
  #70  
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Originally posted by treyZ28
you guys a MORONS- and i say that with passion-
its his fault because he didn't watch his freaking guages?

I dont even know where to start with that statement
Why do you jump in on serious technical posts, and instantly start calling people names. How old are you????
This guy has a problem wiith his Meziere pump, and it may or may not be his fault. Try giving a little CONSTRUCTIVE input once in a while, instead of just opening your ****ing mouth and calling people names.
Anyway.....
If you own a HP car, and aren't watching the gauges every OPPORTNITY you get for any bad readings, you are taking huge risks. NASCAR Winston Cup car or not, if you own a high-performance car, you should be watching the gauges. That doesn't mean STARING at them, but glancing at them whenever you get a chance.
ALSO, if you modify a car, and don't put in any warning equipment or lights, you are asking for trouble. It only takes 15 minutes to put a warning light in to let you know if the pump failed. 15 minutes versus an engine rebuild is a good invesment in my book every time. The problem is, everyone gets in a hurry (I do it myself), doesn't do the job right the first time, and then you pay for it in the long run.
Moral of the story:
Know what your correct gauge readings are, and look at them when you get a chance when driving.
When installing aftermarket parts, i.e.: electric water pumps, nitrous, etc., install warning lights to let you know when you have a problem.
Take the time to do the job right the first time, and it won't bite you in the *** in the long run.
Old Mar 20, 2003 | 11:12 AM
  #71  
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Originally posted by '94 Bad A Z28
Well I've got nothin but good word for the pump, never really heard anything bad.

Hate to say it but i think its more your fault then theirs. I mean come on how could you let your car get that hot. The check guages light come on when your car gets up into the red. You must have been driving around like that for a while to do that kinda damage.

Had my pump go out too, but i noticed my car getting hot, checked the fuse and it wasn't the fuse. Got home made a phone call, and a nes pump was on it's way free of charge.

Besides the gauge and the check gauges light, the gas pedal also gets REAL soft when the engine gets that hot.
I'm in the same boat as Jordon Musser-mine has died a couple times, with no damage to the engine ebcause I noticed it before it got that hot. I noticed thte funky gas feel in the gas pedal before anything....the times mine failed, it was because of a bad fuse connector and a bad relay....that's why I have the light now.....
Old Mar 20, 2003 | 01:47 PM
  #72  
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I have a new Mez pump that I will be installing in about 2 weeks. My motor should be back by then. I would be interested in any and all of the diragrams that you guys have found. It is too late to revert to the stock setup as I have done the double roller setup, and after nearly 6 grand in engine bling, I dont feel like tearing it down again.

Also, Brent, if you still have a idea in your overfilled head on how to wire that setup, I would be interested in talking to you and giving it a shot. I could get you the photos you need to do a write up on it. I trust your inventiveness, so what do ya say

Q
Old Mar 20, 2003 | 05:31 PM
  #73  
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Originally posted by JordonMusser
[(it IS on the right on TAs, right ) [/B]
Nope, It's on the bottom left.
Old Mar 20, 2003 | 08:10 PM
  #74  
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just making sure brent sees my request

Q
Old Mar 20, 2003 | 08:12 PM
  #75  
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When I decided to go with the an electric pump I decided to go with CSI so I could also install a Be Cool Radiator (lower profile). In addition I was not comfortable that I would always recognize an when the Temp gage was reading high or when an LED extinguished.

So I designed a comparator circuit that monitors pump motor current. Both the CSI amd Meziere pump draw between 5.8 - 6 amps. This circuit is deisgned to illuminate an LED under normal operating conditions ( current > 4 amps). When pump current drops below 4 amps the LED extinguished and an audible alarm sounds. I built one for my car and it works great. I was thinking of getting some PC boards fabricated to simplify the circuit assembly, but I am not sure if there are enough people interested in something like this. Anyway this circuit schematic is available as a word document here: Current Monitor Schematic



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