A chime could certainly be added to a warning circuit in place of or in addition to a lamp. You could bridge it to the key "dinger" .

 

Wiring it up to the security system would sure get your attention too

Seta

 

LOL!

I did some searching several months ago on the Interent for small digital style amp gauges. Those suckers are expensive! LOL! I have no diagrams as of yet because how I hook it up will depend on what I end up purchasing. The downside to this is I know it will be more expensive than just a light hooked up to monitor voltage... but, with these problems, I think the extra expense will be worth it!

Trey, I don't think I could get the proper approvals to build something like that. LOL!

 

Holy crap! What a time for me to log on and find this thread! I just got my car back on the road this weekend. The opti died 6 weeks ago and between scrounging up the funds and making time to work on the car it is back together.

After much deliberation, I went with the electric because I did not want to replace the opti again. I have read about many optis getting trashed by shaft driven waterpumps leaking on them. This is not what happened to my opti (seized bearing) but at 70000 miles I figured I would be safer throwing the oe pump over the hill and getting an electric.

Now amoung all the bliss of driving my car back to work for the first time in 2 months i find this thread.

I used the wiring diagram from Brent's install guide. The pump seems to work well. My temp is about 8 to 9 degrees lower that stock. It is extremely quiet. Now I have something else to worry about.

 

Did you approval to build a blown Z28 with no cats???

pfft-
Who needs to know?

I'm sure the emission sniffers would go crazy

 

I run a Meziere HD unit and have for the past 12 months and ~5K miles. I have had it quit running on me only once and it ended up being the quick disconnect had lost connection on one of the wires. It did peg my gauge but no damage occured as I got off the road within 20 seconds of my check gauges light coming on and I was able to get the fans running with the car off so the coolant cooled a little bit. Took me about 5 minutes to find the problem and I have never had any other trouble out of it since I JB welded the quick connects so they can not come loose.

I do keep a close eye on all of my gauges. Especially oil pressure and coolant temperature. Probably glance down every couple of minutes at most.

 

Guys, for the LED warning light, see my post on page 2.

-Alex

 

If you are using a Meziere (or you are considering using one) there are two thigns that you should go before you ever put the pump on the car:

#1 - Replace that $0.25 in line fuse with a decent weathertight replacement.

#2 - Replace those $0.10 electrical connectors with some decent weatherpak connectors.

The $7.00 you spend could save you much more in the long run.

Other than a minor issue of corrosion on these parts, I have had no problems with my pump.
--
Ronnie

 

How long have you had your pump? Is your car a daily driver?

 

Dang it! You guys beat me to the punch. I would definitely suggest some sort of audible alarm, not the door chime but something that would definitely get your attention (car alarm type sound?).
From what I see, the reasons for running an electic WP vary from being able to run a double roller timing set to increased power and cooling. My question is does anyone make a mechanical pump with a more efficient impeller design? What about a belt-driven pump? I see one here on the cover of TPIS "LT1 hints and L98 update" that looks kind of like a one-off thing. I wonder if TPIS sells those, because a guy could run a double roller timing set with that pump.

 

Why the hell is everyone buying the Mez. pump?? CSI is a known brand name and a trusted pump. I've yet to hear of anyone having a problem with one. Yes, you have to do a bit of grinding on the stock housing to get it to fit....BUT, you don't have to trim the fan schroud, so install is about even. Let me also add the CSI pump is $50 less!!!

Also, paying $1200 to repair this....well, that's your own stupidity. You can EASILY buy a set of used, perfectly good stock LT1 heads for $200-$250. Head gaskets are another $60, $25 for new intake manifold gaskets, and another $45 for ARP head bolts. A MAX of 400 in parts. If you paid someone $800 just to basically swap heads on your car....well, that's your own fault.

 

I did a compare tonight with the Mez and a newer unit.
Mine did fail and I took some pics on a new one and the one I had that screwed me over last week and there is a big difference.
I'll post the pics tomorrow if they came out OK on the digiital cam ...its not the best but we shall see.
Basically I found the the runout on the failed pump rotor was from 1.9MM to 2.8 MM. Out of the car it runs with no issues, but the runout has caused the turbine blades to drag against the housing creating enough to bind up and blow the fuse. I see scrape marks on the turbine blades where it was hitting and hope and hopefully my pics will show this. ELIPTCAL ORBITS DON'T CUT IT!
A 1MM runout is NOT an acceptable tolerance it seems and perhaps MEZ should do a little 6 SIGMA on their production methods or QC on their parts. Runout on the newer pump was nil.
With CSI not having these problems..so it seems , Mez needs to step up to the bar and either discontinue LT1 pumps or fix their quality problems (not to mention the price). When I send my pump back to Mez,I will suggest they include a spec sheet on how to wire these things up and how to wire a warning indicater system as well . Anyone running Electric WP's should do this to be safe but I think thats been said many times over on this board.
Next generally speaking.. and I'll shut up..90% of boards that are on a tech side deal with a PROBLEM and are reported as such. For every 1000 folks that have had no problems, you only hear about a handful that have and thats what you read about. Take what you read with a grain of salt and do your own research to see what is valid or what is just blowing off steam. If you looked for every mod you want to do you'll find a "problem post".
Bottom line is when you open up your LT1 for mods, you best consider a failure along the lines.

Going back to lurker mode.

 

I have had a standard Mez. for nearly 3 years with no problems, but it doesn't have many hours on it either. I like it because I can run it and the fans between rounds at the track, and quickly cool the car off.

I wanted to add some sort of failure warning so I used LT1 Edit and programmed the idle speed to drop down noticably if the temp exceeds 210. (It never has)

I know this won't help if it breaks going down the road, but it will tell me if it breaks in traffic.

FWIW.

Roger
95Z M6 12.03@123.6 w/2.0 60' on Firestone SZ's

 

Well...with quite a few Meziere issues being reported as of late and NO CSI issues...I think I'll roll the dice on the CSI before I ever buy a Mez.

 

I've been on this board for a few years and I can recall when these electric pumps were the lastest fad. Everyone rushed to jump on board to gain 5hp. I'm sorry to hear about the many failures of thses pumps and the trouble they have caused for the unsuspecting.

All I can say is I am glad I decided to be cautious. When the GM pumps fail they tend to die slowly and provide a warning (leak from the weep hole). GM even eliminated the "belt" drive for improved reliability. From these posts all should be warned that there are certain mods that may reduce reliablity and everyone needs to be mindful of this before moding a daily driver.

I also hope the maufacturers of these electric pumps are listening so that they make whatever changes are necessary to improve the design and reliablity that they can be used on the street without constant monitoring of the gauges for engine damaging failures.