LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Meziere Electric Water Pump.. What a piece of crap!....

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Old Oct 27, 2002 | 11:24 PM
  #31  
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Cool

I wire mine in so it is on when the pump is getting power. As long as juice is making it within 2 inches of the water pump, that light stays on. Bright as hell, and has save my butt a couple of times (loose wire). Even if the pump locked up, the fuse would blow, and the light would shut off.... Right next to the oil pressure guage in plain view

-Shannon
Old Oct 27, 2002 | 11:37 PM
  #32  
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Had mine on since a lil over yr ago w/o any problems..Using a relay triggered off my ignition..My temp guage never leaves the 170 mark
Old Oct 27, 2002 | 11:58 PM
  #33  
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Does anyone have a warning light wired up so that it comes ON when the pump stops working? I would definately prefer this, as i would get to comfortable with the light on all the time and probably not notice it to soon if it shut off...

Does anyone have a diagram of how i am talking about hooking it up?
Old Oct 28, 2002 | 12:45 AM
  #34  
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You can wire it up so when the pump has power it will illuminate...All you do is add it in series with the pump(blue wire)
But...I dont see how Nomad thinks it will blow the fuse if it locks up..I think the pump pulls 9 amps at most so maybe if it did lock up it would heat up and cause the fuse to blow? What size fuse are you runnning Nomad (10amps) Best way to wire it up would be to run a relay where if the pump was on, a LED would be illuminated..Then maybe you could wire it up around the Normally closed contacts to where if the LED is NOT illuminated the engine will not run since the ignition wire will be open..

Cody
Old Oct 28, 2002 | 01:25 AM
  #35  
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Well I've got nothin but good word for the pump, never really heard anything bad.

Hate to say it but i think its more your fault then theirs. I mean come on how could you let your car get that hot. The check guages light come on when your car gets up into the red. You must have been driving around like that for a while to do that kinda damage.

Had my pump go out too, but i noticed my car getting hot, checked the fuse and it wasn't the fuse. Got home made a phone call, and a nes pump was on it's way free of charge.

So I hate to do this, but I'm pullin the BS card. It's not there fault that you didn't notice your car getting extremely hot. Sorry, just don't see how your stupidity, or should I say unawareness of your car, is their fault.
Old Oct 28, 2002 | 02:34 AM
  #36  
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sorry

Sorry about your misfortune, monkey. I have a question for everyone with an elec water pump. Are they really worth all the this trouble? Daily drivers don't seem like a good use for them. I'm just saying because I have read a lot of posts about problems, as you have. How much power could you possibly be gaining?

P.S. None of your head problems were your fault. I don't care what any of them say, including Jordon.
Old Oct 28, 2002 | 02:34 AM
  #37  
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Re: TO THOSE THAT SAY YOU SHOULD HAVE WATCHED YOUR GAUGES

Originally posted by ucrazymonkey
YES I DO REALIZE MY CAPS ARE ON AND FOR A REASON. FOR THOSE 2 BUTT HEADS( WATCHING MY LANGUAGE) YOU KNOW WHAT YOU CAN DO!

DONT YOU EVER SAY ITS NOT A HONDA IM DRIVING. DAMN IM I PISSED. YOUR SATEMENT YOU MAKE IS SUCH IGNORANCE ITS TERRIBLE.

I WATCH MY GAUGES ALL THE TIME AND FOR YOU 2 TO SIT OVER THERE AND SAT ITS MY FAULT BECAUSE I DONT SIT THERE WITH MY FREAKIN 1 EYE ATTACHED TO THE GAUGES AND THE OTHER TO THE ROAD HAVE NO IDEA HOW TO OPERATE A VECHILE LET ALONE BREATHE. WILL I GET FLAMED FOR THIS---I DONT CARE. OF ALL 400+ POSTINGS NEVER HAD I EVER SAID ONE NEGATIVE THING OR TRIED TO FLAME ON ANYONE BUT YOU TWO ARE FOOLS. DONT SIT BACK THERE AND TELL ME YOU NEVER TAKE YOUR EYE OF THE GUAGES.

JUST FOR YOUR FYI THIS HAPPENED WITHOUT WARNING ON AN INTERSTATE AT 4:30 IN THE MORNING. I LOOKED DOWN TO NOTICE MY TEMP GAUGE HEADING TO THE RED. I PULLED OVER RIGHT AWAY AND THERE WAS NOTHING I COULD DO TO STOP IT FROM OVERHEATING. I EVEN TOOK A TOWEL AND BURNED MYSELF A FEW TIMES RELEASING THE PRESSURE FROM THE RADIATOR. IT COOKED IN THE MATTER OF MINUTES.

DAMN THE FIRST GUY THAT SAID THAT IS MY FAULT SURE HAS ME PISSED.
Lol, its ok dude, chrisbequick is just a troll anyway. Ever since I started modding my car, I keep an extra close eye on temps, batt reading, and oil pressure. Even so, there's no way you can always be watching. It would be just luck if you looked down right when the pump stopped and saw the temp rising.

I'll prolly stick with a stock one form now on.
Old Oct 28, 2002 | 02:38 AM
  #38  
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Im sorry man

my pump had gone on me too before (faulty wiring) .. but unlike u .. i keep an eye on my gauges .. and yes, it does climb REALLY quick .. thats why i notice it really quick and pull over and turn off my car... i never damaged my motor . u wont just blow a gasket if ur car overheats .. u'll blow a gasket if u drive around while over heating for a while ..

sorry about all ur problems .. if calling me a moron and a jackazz makes u feel better, by all means . please do so .. i could even give u my phone # so u can yell at me on the phone if that would help u feel any better ...

lesson learned the hard way: u mod ur car, u lose reliability. end of story. NO AFTERMARKET part is more reliable than GM parts.. tahts why u keep an eye on ur car if u mod it ... thats why i just bought a scanmaster ...

also, if u can tune ur car, there are ways to make ur car "act up" and let u know when she's overheating ..

ie: u can activate ur CAGS at a certain temp, ud know right away if u have an M6 ... u could pull so much timing ur car will barely move at a certain temp .. u'll know right away that "somethings wrong" etc (yes i know, pulling timing will make u run hotter but its a notice)

one more thing, owning an Fbody can get VERY expensive if u dont do ur own work .. a head gasket change would normally cost about $100 for head bolts and gaskets not $1200 !!!

good luck next time
Old Oct 28, 2002 | 06:20 AM
  #39  
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Originally posted by sideways_Into_3rd
Im sorry man

my pump had gone on me too before (faulty wiring) .. but unlike u .. i keep an eye on my gauges .. and yes, it does climb REALLY quick .. thats why i notice it really quick and pull over and turn off my car... i never damaged my motor . u wont just blow a gasket if ur car overheats .. u'll blow a gasket if u drive around while over heating for a while ..

sorry about all ur problems .. if calling me a moron and a jackazz makes u feel better, by all means . please do so .. i could even give u my phone # so u can yell at me on the phone if that would help u feel any better ...

lesson learned the hard way: u mod ur car, u lose reliability. end of story. NO AFTERMARKET part is more reliable than GM parts.. tahts why u keep an eye on ur car if u mod it ... thats why i just bought a scanmaster ...

also, if u can tune ur car, there are ways to make ur car "act up" and let u know when she's overheating ..

ie: u can activate ur CAGS at a certain temp, ud know right away if u have an M6 ... u could pull so much timing ur car will barely move at a certain temp .. u'll know right away that "somethings wrong" etc (yes i know, pulling timing will make u run hotter but its a notice)

one more thing, owning an Fbody can get VERY expensive if u dont do ur own work .. a head gasket change would normally cost about $100 for head bolts and gaskets not $1200 !!!

good luck next time

I wonder if there is anyway to get it to turn your car off at 245+
or at least throw a check engine soon light- turn off the stereo, honk the horn, open the door... SOMETHING!

and also
MOST of the time when you see your car overheating its too late
by the time you shut it off, the heat will continue to disipate into the water

try it
turn your car off at like 180* after running for a while
the guage will climb
Old Oct 28, 2002 | 07:04 AM
  #40  
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now thats an idea... have it cut the ignition or fuel pump when the temperature gets too high.
Old Oct 28, 2002 | 07:16 AM
  #41  
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Originally posted by anasazi
now thats an idea... have it cut the ignition or fuel pump when the temperature gets too high.
GOD NO! NOT FUEL!
with my luck I will be spraying...
"wow I ran an 11.2 last run on the 150 shot, let me try the 200..."

"hey where did that connecting rod go!"
Old Oct 28, 2002 | 07:26 AM
  #42  
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You know, the pump with the little driveshaft going into the engine never stops turning even if it is leaking like a sieve. At least you have some cooling. IMHO electric waterpumps are and have always been for the track, not a car you are going to drive. Meziere may be able to advertise an un-believeable lifespan but that is in his controlled environment. It isn't with salt spray, car washes, dirt, and baking engine heat at every shutdown. Personally, I will use the stock pump until no one is having problems with the electric pumps stopping and killing their engines.
Old Oct 28, 2002 | 07:58 AM
  #43  
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I've got one of these but don't have it installed yet. I'll be putting a warning system in when it goes on. However, mine is going to be a little different than what is being talked about. Most of the wiring diagrams out there and the lights being hooked up monitor voltage. While that is better than nothing, the pump can still fail in such a way as to not activate the circuit. I plan on monitoring current. If you monitor current draw even if the shaft breaks you'll know it
Old Oct 28, 2002 | 08:16 AM
  #44  
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Originally posted by Brent94Z
I've got one of these but don't have it installed yet. I'll be putting a warning system in when it goes on. However, mine is going to be a little different than what is being talked about. Most of the wiring diagrams out there and the lights being hooked up monitor voltage. While that is better than nothing, the pump can still fail in such a way as to not activate the circuit. I plan on monitoring current. If you monitor current draw even if the shaft breaks you'll know it
Diagram if you please, good sir.
Old Oct 28, 2002 | 08:43 AM
  #45  
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Originally posted by Brent94Z
I've got one of these but don't have it installed yet. I'll be putting a warning system in when it goes on. However, mine is going to be a little different than what is being talked about. Most of the wiring diagrams out there and the lights being hooked up monitor voltage. While that is better than nothing, the pump can still fail in such a way as to not activate the circuit. I plan on monitoring current. If you monitor current draw even if the shaft breaks you'll know it
cut the sillyness with these little mods and mak a nuclear powered traditonal gen I or gen II CSB will ya?

"yeah well if you just throw on a nuclear reactor on an LS1 or 03 cobra..."



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