lt1 rebuild.... How much $?
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 78
From: Monroe, MI
Quality machine work is not cheap.
$150-Bore and hone w/torque plates
$100-Deck block
$250-Install 4-bolt splayed mains and alignhone
$40-Pin-fit rods and pistons(h-beams and forged SRP
$150-Balance Rotating assembly
$50-Clean and Mag block
$40-Install cam bearings
$100-Clearance for Stroker(I had this done in preperation for next buildup.
Total $880
This is not just for stock machine work though. This guy builds circle track motors and other drag engines. I'd rather pay a little more for someone to do the work the right way to where i can sleep better at night and feel more comfortable reving continuesly to 6500. Well the sleeping at night part is a little far-fetched but you know what i mean.
$150-Bore and hone w/torque plates
$100-Deck block
$250-Install 4-bolt splayed mains and alignhone
$40-Pin-fit rods and pistons(h-beams and forged SRP
$150-Balance Rotating assembly
$50-Clean and Mag block
$40-Install cam bearings
$100-Clearance for Stroker(I had this done in preperation for next buildup.
Total $880
This is not just for stock machine work though. This guy builds circle track motors and other drag engines. I'd rather pay a little more for someone to do the work the right way to where i can sleep better at night and feel more comfortable reving continuesly to 6500. Well the sleeping at night part is a little far-fetched but you know what i mean.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,277
From: Orange Kounty, Kalifornia
That's a decent price for someone with a reputation. But that is also just the block work. Look at some of the "assembled motors" prices... then subtract $600 -$1500 to do it on your own.
You could slap in a bottom end kit without machine work but your cylinders will not be perfectly round... among other issues.
You could re-use your cam/heads stock etc... just if you're trying to get by. Freshen the seals on the valves though.
You could slap in a bottom end kit without machine work but your cylinders will not be perfectly round... among other issues.
You could re-use your cam/heads stock etc... just if you're trying to get by. Freshen the seals on the valves though.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 62
whoa...there fella's...
I was under the impression that he only wanted a rebuild...
so there is no need for $700 worth of machine work, he doesn’t need stroker clearencing...
and for the bottom end he would be using stock crank and rods, so $5-600 is plenny....
This is just a good rebuild that I still don’t consider budget...
I said nothing about stroker in my post...
I was under the impression that he only wanted a rebuild...
so there is no need for $700 worth of machine work, he doesn’t need stroker clearencing...
and for the bottom end he would be using stock crank and rods, so $5-600 is plenny....
This is just a good rebuild that I still don’t consider budget...
I said nothing about stroker in my post...
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 78
From: Monroe, MI
I was just giving some prices. Yea he dont need all that extra work done. he could get buy with probably 300-400 for just quality machine work, bore, clean, mag, cam bearings, maybe align hone. Just stuff for a stock rebuild. Plus more for assembly idf you have that done.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,277
From: Orange Kounty, Kalifornia
Agreed, you can squeak by with a base block... I'd still get it decked to straighten it out... but everything with the block will be $300-$400.
You can re-use the stock bottom end, but you will need new pistons for the new bore. You can re-use the crank but I'd have it turned to clean it up... you'll need oversized bearings.
New piston rings.
Gaskets and seals.
Re-use the stock heads but it may be worthwhile to change the valve seals. If the springs are tired, now is a good time to change.
Re-use the cam, lifters, and valvetrain.
I'd also change the timing chain... stock is fairly inexpensive compared to the LT4 chain.
That should get you back on the road...
You can re-use the stock bottom end, but you will need new pistons for the new bore. You can re-use the crank but I'd have it turned to clean it up... you'll need oversized bearings.
New piston rings.
Gaskets and seals.
Re-use the stock heads but it may be worthwhile to change the valve seals. If the springs are tired, now is a good time to change.
Re-use the cam, lifters, and valvetrain.
I'd also change the timing chain... stock is fairly inexpensive compared to the LT4 chain.
That should get you back on the road...
Moderator
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 10,745
From: Buffalo, New York
There are huge variations in labor costs in different regions and different areas. Locally, the only shop that anyone with any sense would want working on their high performance car charges $72/h and works at a moderate pace. If you were, for example, in the NYC area it might cost more like $90/h. OTOH, in a rural area of certain states $50/h wouldn't surprise me. Then, there are people who work out of their home garages and may charge by the job at a much lower hourly rate.
That's why you are getting such a wide variety of answers. Parts cost about the same eveywhere. But you really need to consider quality and compare apples to apples. Not saying more expensive is better, but it isn't cheap to run a high quality shop. A buddy has a shop equipped to work on three vehicles at a time. Besides the chassis dyno he has >$250,000 in tools. The shop building must be worth well over $100,000 and it costs over $100/d just to keep the doors open and the lights on (utilities, insurance, maintainence, etc.). So, work done by a pro will never be cheap compared to a home garage mechanic.
If getting the absolute cheapest price for decent work is what you want, you need to ask around and find a pro who works "on the side" out of home. But you really need to do your research if that's the route you want to take. Example: Around here there's a guy who works for a world class shop and does some head work "on the side". If you can find him, and he's willing to work with you, you can get some dynamite work at a low price (if you are willing to wait). OTOH, I know of a home garage rebuilt tranny that failed in less than a mile!
Rich Krause
That's why you are getting such a wide variety of answers. Parts cost about the same eveywhere. But you really need to consider quality and compare apples to apples. Not saying more expensive is better, but it isn't cheap to run a high quality shop. A buddy has a shop equipped to work on three vehicles at a time. Besides the chassis dyno he has >$250,000 in tools. The shop building must be worth well over $100,000 and it costs over $100/d just to keep the doors open and the lights on (utilities, insurance, maintainence, etc.). So, work done by a pro will never be cheap compared to a home garage mechanic.
If getting the absolute cheapest price for decent work is what you want, you need to ask around and find a pro who works "on the side" out of home. But you really need to do your research if that's the route you want to take. Example: Around here there's a guy who works for a world class shop and does some head work "on the side". If you can find him, and he's willing to work with you, you can get some dynamite work at a low price (if you are willing to wait). OTOH, I know of a home garage rebuilt tranny that failed in less than a mile!
Rich Krause
Registered User
Joined: Jul 1998
Posts: 197
From: Los Angeles, CA
even parts vary a lot from places to places; for example it was cheaper for me to buy a transmission in Alabama, get it shipped to California than buying local.
The local shops told me for engine building, even though there is no logic to that rule, it always ends up being $10/hp in the end
The local shops told me for engine building, even though there is no logic to that rule, it always ends up being $10/hp in the end
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