What do you guys think a lt1 rebuild would cost? also, how loing before you should get a t56 rebuilt? if it's around a 100k is it still ok for a rebuilt lt1? i am looking at a 94 with around 100k on it b/c i cant afford anything with less miles then that and still be able too hook it up.. so what do you guys think?

 

its about 600 dollars i think for a rebuild

 

Six hundred dollars for a transmission rebulid on a T-56 hahahahaha yeah right..who's your mechanic I want his number I been calling around just for the parts , snyc kit and bearing kit , is nearly six hundred dollars and then all rebuild places want 1500 dollars for the rebuild .......

 

o i thought he ment the engine rebuild i dono this friend of mine does them good/cheap lol so i guess im set

 

well, i meant for both, i was jw

 

if you bore hone the block to a 355, then its about 90 bucks for machine work an then you got the rotating assy minus crank and rods from summit for 600 and then ya gta get a cam if yer gna rebuild, cmotorsports has a cam package that has a 224/230 cam for i think it was 600 too, so if you do the work yourself, then your lookin at atleast 1500-1600. and dont forget the lt-4 extreme duty timing chain, not sure on the price, but i think they are about 4-500??

 

Too many variables.

The real question is how much do you want to spend?

You can get a basic kit from Summit and re-use your stock crank (get it turned).

Or if you plan on blowing or juicing later on down the road, you might want forged pistons and rods.

Or you might just get it out of the way now and do a 383 or 396.

Give us a little more detail on what you plan on doing....how far you are willing to go.

 

$600 is about right for a T-56 rebuild. I had mine rebuilt because it wouldnt got into reverse. Turns out the reverse, 1-2, 3-4 syncros were bad. I had Liberty Gears in Taylor Michigan, just south of Detroit, rebuild it. I called once about ahving a A4 rebuilt and they laughed at me. They said they do nothing but manuals and rear ends. They built many manuals for dragcars and such. I paid $585 for mine. That was $165 for the teardown and put-together. The rest was for parts. I had them put in a used syncros for $50 each. I am very happy with it and so far so good with many SPEC stage III launches. I will go no where else but them for any manual tranny rebuilds. This is just the case in my area though. I called around many other shops and they wanted from $800-1300 for a rebuild. And these were just your normal auto and manual trans shops. If you want the number i can dig it up for any of you guys. I would not have it rebuilt if there is nothin wrong with it though.

Jason

 

well, i am not sure what i want as of yet, i am thinking if i get the car cheaper b/c the miles are high, and then i have somone rebuild the motor it would be better then original. I have emission here to worry about, so i dont think a 383 would be able to pass or am i wrong, i can't camm it out or anyhting like that, but im sure nitrous couln't hurt, so if i rebuilt it with forged pistons and such it would be too expensive right???

 

Ture but, I just blow my motor after 170k. I'm having it a professonaly done. I haven't gotten a detailed quote yet becasue we don't know how much needs to be replaced but the ball park is about 3k total.

 

How much for just a basic almost stock total engine rebuild? Only aftermarket thing being a hotcam kit, how much would this cost?

 

Firstgengoy- why do you think you would have to rebuild so soon on a 100k car? These are strong engines. Just wondering.

 

$1568 for a short block with valve work done, cam set up, honed, decked, shaved heads, 2 new rods and pistons, new (used) crank, line bore, bearings, oil pump, all ARP bolts, some welding and delivery. Got it done at Cornetts machine in Somerset for you Kentucky boys

-Shannon

 

This is what I quoted someone the other day...

Engine removal/reinstall - $600
Engine assembly - $500 (includes complete bottom end disassembly/reassemble, head/cam inst., intake, etc...)
Machine work on block - $400-500 (includes magnaflux, .030 over bore, all honing, crank/rods insp./bal., bearing inst., freeze plug inst.)

So you’re looking at $1500-1600 for the above and another $600-800 for the summit bottom end kit and top end stuff...and don’t forget other things like, H20 pump, opti, plugs/wires...it really starts to add up quick...

 

I don't know how you can build a motor for so cheap.

The block to align hone the mains, bore with torque plates, clearance the block for a stroked crank, thermal clean the block, deck the block, insert cam bearings will cost at least $700.

The bottom end components will be anywhere from $600 to $2000 depending on the quality and type (cast, hypereutechtic, or forged internals)....

The top end for the heads (porting and polishing alone is $1000 - $2000 depending on extent), springs, seals, rocker arms with 1.6 rollers, intake port match, cam, timing chain, pushrods, etc... count on $2500-$3200... depending on quality.

Gaskets and seals... more

computer programming... more

If you want it cheap... sure, you can get the block machined for the best price of $700, bottom end for $600, and top end for $700.

No offense, but I just can't see how it can be done for so cheap. Maybe things are more pricy in California.

A 383 can pass emissions with a computer tune an a mild cam like the CC 503... remember a 383 is an air pump that relies on the intake system and exhaust system dynamics. The cam will be the balancing component "brain". For a 383 to pass smog, you'll need to calculate the overlap. Lingenfelter sells a CARB legal 383 so it is possible...