I'm looking for a good place to get a mail order tune. pcmforless is metioned alot. Are there any other suggested mail order tune companies. I also want to know if a computer tune is worth the money for the setup in sig. I also have a manual oil pressure gauge on the car because the original gauge stopped working. Could they possible make some changes to stop the low oil light and oil pressure gauge from working?

 

I used PCM4less and a tune would definitely help. However, I would fix the problem that makes the low oil light come on instead of masking the problem.

 

The low oil (level) light has nothing to do with the oil pressure sensor - why is that coming on, if it's the oil pressure sensor (or gauge?) that is not working?

Neither the low oil level switch nor the oil pressure sensor is connected to the PCM, so there's nothing that they can do in the PCM/tune to eliminate the check gauges (low oil pressure) and low oil lights.

Both those circuits are simple connections from the sensor to the gauge/warning light. Have you checked the operation of the oil pressure sensor and the wiring? Ditto with the oil level sensor.

Look also at madtuner.com

 

i had madtuner do my tune, they reflashed my pcm and sent it back all within about a weeks time after they got it, so quick turn around decent pricing also. Can not really tell you how good the tune is because i'm still working the kinks out on my car.... also i'd wait untill you did the nitrous to get the tune, i'm not sure how exactly the tune and niitrous go together but i'm sure all that extra power at one time on a stock tune is no bueno

 

Thanks for input guys. Previous owner cut the wire to the oil pressure gauge and put in a manual gauge. When you crank car the original gauge jumps to 80 and holds there. I'll also take a look at madtuner.


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Do not wait for the nitrous to tune it. Even with nitrous you optimize the tune for running without nitrous. You tune for the nitrous externally using the fuel and nitrous jets for A/F ratio and an eternal box to retard the timing as required.

An oil pressure gauge reading 80 psi indicates an open circuit. Why not reconnect the wire and see if the gauge works correctly. That still doesn't address problems with the oil level light.

 

If you are just bolt-ons, a mail order will be fine.

If you are cammed, unless it is a GM Hotcam or CC305/503, forget it. They will only get you ball-parked.

They may make claims otherwise ... but I have been there done that. I have a mediocre cam in my car (224/230 .600/.600 108LSA) and their tune had me stuck at 108/160 BLM split.

They insisted it was something wrong with the car. I changed (moved) injectors, changed, plugs, wires, opti, O2's, etc. It never fixed my BLM's. I got TunerCAT and was able to tune my split WAY down. I finally went to a Open Loop Tune and have never looked back.

They can ballpark you, but that's it unless you run something as common as the LT4 Hotcam Kit. My car was way off, and speaking with other tuners, many suggested an OLT. They insisted it was not tune related. I relashed the valves a few times, inspected lifters, check for vacuum leaks, removed my intake and cleaned the IA passageways within the manifold, etc.

I literally spent close to 80-100 hours trying everything else before I finally broke down and bought the **** to tune on my own. Best thing I ever did.

They;re good, but their not good enough to make a safe realistic tune for any kind of uncommon heads/cam package. If you want to build a real motor, you better learn to tune, or take oit to them personally because from 500 miles away, they can only get you so close.

I may **** off some of the tuners here with my comments, but if that is the case, so be it. I call any of them out, I will send you PCMforless's tune they mailed me, and 1 datalog, and we will see if you can get her to run half as good as a custom tune (by an amateur) who had in-seat time with the actual car and a wideband.

 

HardcoreRM125 that is my concern. The car doesn't have a common GM Hotcam or CC305/503. From what i've read the cam that was installed on this car is not one most people would install (previous owners installed it). And I'm concerned with them not being able to tune it correctly. I'm also located in the NE part of MS and not many performance shops or people that tune LT1's so i'm kinda stuck.

 

Exactly how do you propose "bad tuning" causes a 108/160 BLM split?

OP you need to learn to evaluate posters before you can evaluate information they offer.

My car is mailorder tuned by pcmperformance.com seems to run ok.
I have uploaded madz28 tunes for some friends and those worked well and neither was HOT or 503 cam.

There was a time when I used pcmforless and had a lot of troubles.

Tuners can get things done decently well mailorder if they are willing to put in some time and you are willing and capable of giving them back meaningful data.

I would not dream of owning a modded car without a laptop and datalogger to go with it.
I think you can get the cable, programming software and datalogging software as a package deal for about $250. The laptop requirements are very modest like if it is less than a decade old it is more than sufficient. This will allow a mailorder tuner to email you programs you flash and then you use the datalogger to record data to help them make tweaks and with the tuning software you can make tweaks too.

 

Well, for one ... the AFR was all across the board. This caused it to pick up knock and retard the already mild timing (which gave it a severe lack of power at WOT).

Second, I had datalogs in the past and before their "tune" ... there was no split BLM's. After, they were horrible.

Bottom line, if you have something uncommon, your going to have to learn to tune or fork over the cash for someone to tune it in person, not mail order.

 

And bad tuning causes the split because the injector offset was wrong, it was dumping too much fuel to certain cylinders and causing the split as the O2's struggled to adjust it to the proper AFR.

Just because YOU had good luck with mail orders tunes does not mean they are the best for everyone. Or that I am wrong when I say their tune was **** for my camshaft install.

Truth be told, my car ran BETTER before they reflashed it (stock tune & my cam) than after since it was knocking, pulling timing, changed the injector offset, etc.

So that is how I attribute "bad tuning" to split BLM's, knock retard, and a jumpy AFR.

And ask yourself this ... your car may run fine - but how much are you giving up running a mail order instead of tuning it properly on a wideband & dyno?

You need to learn not to beat down other posters comments when you may not know the details.

 

Hardcore... YOU had a bad experience. Many others have not. Post YOUR experience, but don't beat down others who advise they haven't had problems. They are as entitled to post their experience as you are. Let the reader decide. No need to get to upset. You seem like a very angry person.

 

Not angry at all. But when someone tells the origional poster to take my opinion as a grain of salt (and it is not opinion; it was factual) I felt the need to stress my point.

The origional poster even said his camshaft was quite irregular. This means your going to be bouncing tunes back and forth with the mailorder guys and will need to datalog it with a laptop anyways.

If you want the best power and driveability, you'd be crazy not to learn how to tune it yourself and then buy some dyno time too try differnt AFR and timing.




Joe