How many miles do you have on your car?? If your car isnt stumblin or hesitating at all, then leave the opti in it. I have the original opti in mine and I'm getting ready to kick over 130,000. I have a stock suspension too. Your suspension isnt the problem, cuz I'm only pulling 1.75 60 ft., and still runnin a low 12. I'm really leaning toward the dyno tune as the fix to your problem. I still don't understand about the "put a cc306 in there and tell me if you hit 12's". Your already running 12's and you dont need the cc306. 847 is better anyway.

Benji

 

The car hasn't stumbled or anything, the car has 134,000 on it, a little over 80,000 on the shortblock, (it was replaced by GM at 50,000). I just thought maybe that could be holding me back a little since I think it may be dropping off a little on top end.

As far as the dyno tune, is there anyway I can check the tune I have now against someone elses tune. What program do you need to compare bin files? I have the cord that hooks under the dash as well.

I wasn't really sure abouot the put the cc306 in there and see if you hit 12's either. So I just said that it should hit low 12's with that cam.

I also agree that the 847 is probably a better cam.

 

You can run low 12s in the car that you have, you just got to get the weight off of it.

My little car ran low 12s with stock PE Tables and an A4 that was not shifting that great. Car was 3400#s on that day. Your MPH is not better than mine. The idea is to get it off the line and going!!

I thought I might could put the HOT cam in the 11.99s but not sure that will happen this year, got some plans in the works for a much loftier goal, with another H/C package!!

 

If the opti is going bad you'll know it

 

Our cars seem to be running very close to one another. Do you have yours dyno tuned? I have mail order & thinking of getting it dyno tuned now.

 

Well I will leave the OPTI alone. I am getting a laptop and will get the necessary programs and try to get the car tuned in correctly.

I want low 12's and hopefully later on high 11's NA.

I will also be dropping some weight from the car as well.

But, what other bolt ons should I put on it?

 

Diet and suspension work if you haven't already done so. There's alot of things that can be taken out if you just want a good pass. The jack and spare, stereo speakers, all the crap that inevitable gets thrown into the rear hatch area, the change in the cup holder, etc... If you need more power, have the heads professionally ported and polished and assembled with 2.00/1.55 valves, a 3 angle valve job, and have them shaved for more compression.

Also, if you want to fiddle around with the computer, I would go ahead and have the car professionally dyno tuned. Then make a back up of that configuration and modify it from there. You really don't want to try programming your computer without something to go from and no way to undo what you do. Just so you know, there's like 40 different things you can tweak with LT1 edit, and if one gets screwed up the car won't run properly.

 

Smokn '94 Z, were you asking me about my tuning cuz I did notice that our cars run pretty similar. My tuning is just a put together program that was put in by a local computer guy. I will have my car dyno tuned after I p&p the heads and do long tubes, and some other things. The car right now only gets like 14-15 mpg cuz its running so rich. And the shift pts are way too high (6500). Those are just a few of the things I still need to work out.
When/where are you going to dyno tune your car?

Benji

 

If I decide for sure to get my car dyno tuned I have been thinking of Carolina Auto Masters, I have heard a lot of good things about them.

 

Also guys how about a gear change I have noticed before that alot of the HOT CAM guys had great times when using a 3.42 gear. I already have a 3.42 gear, would just have to get it installed.

 

Hey formual383, do you have a CAI? I know it's not much but you might get the car to run a little faster if you can get it to breathe better. As far as weight reduction I removed the backseats, spare tire and jack. That was 60 lbs right there. I'm also removing my A/C and smog pump this weekend. That should be another 40 lbs. A 100 lb. loss isn't bad and could possibly equate to a tenth in the 1/4. Good luck.

 

Well I did PCMforless when I did just the Hot Cam. Now I have GTP Stage 2 heads on the car but the car still runs the same times. I need to get it dyno tuned I believe. Probably through FLP. They are real close to my house.

Formula... Your 3.73's are a perfect gear for that Vig3200 stall you have. No question about it.

 

Hellion, yeah I do have a CAI.

Smokn '94 Z, thanks for the info on the gear. What about when I get the NX kit, what gear then?

Also what kind of improvement could I expect from adding some skinnies on the front and some draglites on the back as well? Right now I am running the 17x9.5 TTII's, and they are heavy.

 

No one wants to make a guess on what kind of times I should gain from adding the 1.7's, electric wp, 30lb injectors?

Also what kind of gain if any with the skinnies on the front?

 

Your money would be better spent on a dyno tune. I don't hear of many people using 1.7 roller rockers, will your springs even work with them? If you are using the springs that come with the HOTcam don't even think about it, I think you'll float a valve. Don't get the meziere pump unless you need it, that's $200 you could spend somewhere else. I'm running fine on the stock injectors, I think you'd be better off spending that money elsewhere too. Don't throw more parts at it, optimize what you have. Slicks/skinnies would be a nice start. Dynotune. Complete tune up. Pull out as much weight before you go to the track as you can.