How do you go about testing it? I pulled the plugs off the switch and looked at those and they're literally brand new in appearance. Copper terminals show no corrosion or the classic burnt look on the plastic. The actual switch itself looks new as well. I didn't pull the column out but I can see everything. The intermittent spark is from the coil and very weak and only sparks if I rub the test light against the coil terminal. If I didn't do that then there's no spark whatsoever. I can get the switch off the column but how do you test it? It'd be nice if it was the culprit but regardless I'm still ditching the opti. Assembling the parts for the 24x conversion now.

 

Hey just joined this. I definitely seem like I'm going through the same thing. I've changed out the Opti, ignition module, map, vats bypass, etc. I do have a security light, with minimum spark only when initially starting then it seems to go away. The fuel pump has a problem priming, even though I checked that it's good. Sometimes if you play with the key enough you can get it to prime, but doesn't seem like it's getting enough spark. I could really some help on this. I have multiple cars but this has been the ongoing project for months now and I'm pulling out my hair!

 

Year of vehicle?

What “vats bypass” did you do to get rid of the “SECURITY” light? And you indicate you still have the light.

Have you scanned for codes? Engine isn’t going to start if the PCM does not receive the “fuel enable” signal from the PASS-Key II (VATS) system. There is a DTC code for that problem.

Have you checked the fuel pump relay?

 

Tagging onto an 11 year old thread is a bad idea. Start a new one with all the details of your problem.