No Start Problems
08-25-2008, 03:21 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Amarillo Texas
Posts: 712
No Start Problems
94Z a4
the car wont start, just died after exiting off the highway.
I followed the "No start Thread" here on CZ and it said the coil was bad. too much restistance, the pink wire on the coil was hot. SO i replaced the coil and the wire was still hot, and still not start..
I am getting spark out of the coil, but not at the plugs.
The injectors do pulse with my noid light tester.
Fuel pressure is 42psi, drops to 40 and holds ..
Fuses are all good, wiring looks to be ok as well.
""No Spark Fuel ok Diagnostics
1. The first thing we will do is verify the optical sesnor is working correctly. and here is how..
unhook 1 fuel injector connector. with your testlight check for pulsing ground on the NON PINK wire while cranking the engine(different years use different color wires but all year have pink wires for the positive voltage side of the connectors) The other choice you have is to use the noid light noid light AZ OEM part number 25143, plug the noid light into teh connector and crank the car. The light should flash..
Do you have a flashing ground while cranking?
Yes, the optical sesnor is sending the signal and should be ok, continue to to test the ign system.
2. next we will see if the coil and ICM are causing the no spark.
first on the ICM connector with KOEO check for hot on the pink wire. do you ahve hot?
yes, next step
3. Nect check for ground on the black wire. do you have ground?
yes, next step
4. next test for a pusing ground at the pink wire at the coil coming from the ICM. Do you have a pulsing ground?
yes, next step
5. next with your testlight check for hot on the Pink wire at the coil. do you have hot?
yes, Replace your coil *note, High resistence from bad plug wires can burn out coils. You can Ohm test plug wires or replace them if wanted*
""
Thus replaced coil, still no start...
this fits my diagnosis
"No Start, Spark ok Fuel OK diagnostics
If you have fuel pressure and you have spark at the coil there are only a few more reasons the car will not start.
First and most popular is Rotor damagde in the opti. to check for this make sure you have spark at the OPTI end of the coil wire. Use your grounded testlight to check that. if you have spark at teh coil but not through the coil wire replace the wire. if you do have spark going in check for spark coming out of the opti. if you have spark in and non out the rotor was damaged and needs to be repalced."
the car wont start, just died after exiting off the highway.
I followed the "No start Thread" here on CZ and it said the coil was bad. too much restistance, the pink wire on the coil was hot. SO i replaced the coil and the wire was still hot, and still not start..
I am getting spark out of the coil, but not at the plugs.
The injectors do pulse with my noid light tester.
Fuel pressure is 42psi, drops to 40 and holds ..
Fuses are all good, wiring looks to be ok as well.
""No Spark Fuel ok Diagnostics
1. The first thing we will do is verify the optical sesnor is working correctly. and here is how..
unhook 1 fuel injector connector. with your testlight check for pulsing ground on the NON PINK wire while cranking the engine(different years use different color wires but all year have pink wires for the positive voltage side of the connectors) The other choice you have is to use the noid light noid light AZ OEM part number 25143, plug the noid light into teh connector and crank the car. The light should flash..
Do you have a flashing ground while cranking?
Yes, the optical sesnor is sending the signal and should be ok, continue to to test the ign system.
2. next we will see if the coil and ICM are causing the no spark.
first on the ICM connector with KOEO check for hot on the pink wire. do you ahve hot?
yes, next step
3. Nect check for ground on the black wire. do you have ground?
yes, next step
4. next test for a pusing ground at the pink wire at the coil coming from the ICM. Do you have a pulsing ground?
yes, next step
5. next with your testlight check for hot on the Pink wire at the coil. do you have hot?
yes, Replace your coil *note, High resistence from bad plug wires can burn out coils. You can Ohm test plug wires or replace them if wanted*
""
Thus replaced coil, still no start...
this fits my diagnosis
"No Start, Spark ok Fuel OK diagnostics
If you have fuel pressure and you have spark at the coil there are only a few more reasons the car will not start.
First and most popular is Rotor damagde in the opti. to check for this make sure you have spark at the OPTI end of the coil wire. Use your grounded testlight to check that. if you have spark at teh coil but not through the coil wire replace the wire. if you do have spark going in check for spark coming out of the opti. if you have spark in and non out the rotor was damaged and needs to be repalced."
Last edited by roadtrip120; 08-25-2008 at 03:24 PM.
08-25-2008, 08:20 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Amarillo Texas
Posts: 712
just did, looks fine.
i just replaced the distributor just in case and tired to fire it up with no luck.I'm about to replace the rotor and cap i guess. Nothing left as far as i can tell.
i just replaced the distributor just in case and tired to fire it up with no luck.I'm about to replace the rotor and cap i guess. Nothing left as far as i can tell.
08-30-2008, 06:23 AM
#7
Guest
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 0
Hi-jacker or same person????
Other than the fact that you both are listed in Amarillo, what's up wit that?
09-01-2008, 01:04 PM
#11
Administrator
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,671
So far the problem with the cap/rotor has been described as
"Rotor and cap was bad"
"cap and rotor it died agian"
"frying the caps"
Not sure what is leading you to those conclusions. Perhaps you could explain whether its physical damage, electrical damege, or whatever???? Simply telling people the cap is bad, dies or fried isn't providing much info to work with.
And just to clarify, this problem is happening on the "1994 Z28. SS hood, ZR1 wheels, Coated Pacesetter Long Tubes - off road Y Pipe, Moroso CAI....."????
"Rotor and cap was bad"
"cap and rotor it died agian"
"frying the caps"
Not sure what is leading you to those conclusions. Perhaps you could explain whether its physical damage, electrical damege, or whatever???? Simply telling people the cap is bad, dies or fried isn't providing much info to work with.
And just to clarify, this problem is happening on the "1994 Z28. SS hood, ZR1 wheels, Coated Pacesetter Long Tubes - off road Y Pipe, Moroso CAI....."????
09-01-2008, 11:14 PM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Amarillo, TX
Posts: 314
So far the problem with the cap/rotor has been described as
"Rotor and cap was bad"
"cap and rotor it died agian"
"frying the caps"
Not sure what is leading you to those conclusions. Perhaps you could explain whether its physical damage, electrical damege, or whatever???? Simply telling people the cap is bad, dies or fried isn't providing much info to work with.
And just to clarify, this problem is happening on the "1994 Z28. SS hood, ZR1 wheels, Coated Pacesetter Long Tubes - off road Y Pipe, Moroso CAI....."????
"Rotor and cap was bad"
"cap and rotor it died agian"
"frying the caps"
Not sure what is leading you to those conclusions. Perhaps you could explain whether its physical damage, electrical damege, or whatever???? Simply telling people the cap is bad, dies or fried isn't providing much info to work with.
And just to clarify, this problem is happening on the "1994 Z28. SS hood, ZR1 wheels, Coated Pacesetter Long Tubes - off road Y Pipe, Moroso CAI....."????
yes thats the car... the first time i was getting spark from the coil to the opti but nothing to the plugs. i took the rotor off, there was one small burn spot i didnt notice till i few days ago. ill get a picture. this time the rotor is still on the car but no spark to the plugs again.
Last edited by SS44Camaro; 09-01-2008 at 11:27 PM.
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