Alright, rewind to a couple months ago and I run a 13.5 @ 100 mph with stock tranny, 2.0 60 ft, couple of bolt ons, awesome. My transmission goes boom and I get a built 4l60e with a 2400-2500 stall. I go run again on bald street tires and run a 13.8 @ 100 with a 2.40 60 ft. I need drag radials.
I was previously running 10w-30 oil and decided to put 5w-30 in because of which is reccomended. Got some new 255/50/16 tires and came down to Ozark International Raceway for a street car night.

After I arrive, I figure i'll make a pass or two just to show my support. As I am waiting in line, my RPM needle is flickering from 650-900 up and down with my foot just on the break. It idles up to 1300 even at some points. I run and cut a 2.0 60 ft (which I am pissed about because the stall isn't doing ****), and run a best out of 3 passes a 13.8 @ 95. The air is a little humid, but a 5 mph loss in the quarter running a more efficient tranny? I am thinking the opti is starting to let go because of the idle..or possibly plugs? Anyone have any past experience or know about it? I'm pretty annoyed right now.

 

Sounds like you bought an inefficient POS converter to me.

 

Well, I go from not being able to hook up and running 13.8 @ 100 with a spinning ****ty 60 ft, to a 13.8 @ 95 while cutting 2.0's...what gives.

 

could be as simple as a vacuum leak, any codes?

 

It idles fine but it does it quite randomly..seems like it does it when the fans come on. It idles just fine sometimes and other times it does this....

I actually DID get a code about an hour before the track..it flashed Check Engine Light for 10 seconds then it went away. I went to Autozone and they couldn't do anything because it was currently on. I just unplugged my battery and let it sit to reset it. That way if it flasshes again, it will be the only code stored.

 

i would start with the code first.
Most the time, if a code is present the fans will come on.
my car was idling funny several different times - bad plug, bad plug wire, bad fuel filter, theres numerous reasons.

 

The fact that the SES light is on does not prevent the code from being read. Many AutoZones only do OBD-II cars.

 

She said that she could read it, but it would read all the codes and she wouldn't know which one which actually was thrown last night. So pretty much I reset it and if it flashes again it will be the only code stored.

 

A flashing SES light means missfire. And a cheap POS stall will slow your car down at the track and it is less efficient than a stock one.

 

He has a 94. They didn't have misfire detection, and I've never seen one with a "flashing" light. Either on or off.

 

I was cutting the same 60 ft on street tires as stock stall..only stock stall on slipping tranny ran a 13.5 @ 100. ****ty night was 2.0's again, only running a 13.8 @ 95. The month before, I couldn't catch traction because what I thought was the stall. I ran a 13.8 @ 100 with a 2.48 2 weeks after tranny rebuild....

I'm going to be putting some ngk 55's on it and see how she does it. It seems like it is like acting dogish on start up and it's throwing some fire ***** at high rpm's with quite a bit of backfires, so I don't think i'm getting some proper combustion. We'll see I guess.

 

opticrap? pop your hood at night also and see if oyu see any arcing

 

My ses light flashed when i was misfiring. FWIW

 

Your 97 (OBD-II) would flash the SES light for a misfire. The original poster's 1994 (OBD-I) will not. Misfire detection was incorporated with the change over to OBD-II in the 1996 model year. They added a crankshaft position sensor, and the OBD-II PCM diagnostic monitors tiny irregulaties in the crankshaft rotational velocity to detect misfires. The 93-95 LT1's do not have that capability.

FWIW