hub removal
hub removal
i rented a harmonic balancer puller. 3 toed one which i think is the one i need. can i remove the pulley and hub all at once? if so does anybody have a pic or anything. i never did it before and i dont want to screw anything up. by the way i do need both to come off cause im doing a heads/cam install.
i did search but lots of people have different ways of doing it so its kind of confusing.
also do i need to mark anything so i put the stuff back on right?
thanks for any help
i did search but lots of people have different ways of doing it so its kind of confusing.
also do i need to mark anything so i put the stuff back on right?
thanks for any help
Re: hub removal
I just did this last weekend and have a few tips for you:
- You should pull the balancer off first, this will allow you to use the hub threads for pulling the hub off (balancer is screwed into the hub threads I'm referring to).
- Buy 3 four-inch 7/16" bolts for the puller to attach to the hub. You can use smaller bolts I think but buying these made it easier. To use these I had to dremel out the puller a little bit, as the puller holes were a bit too small for these bolts.
- Buy 1 four-inch 5/16" grade 8 bolt that will be used by the puller to push off on. Other people use allen bolts or 1/4" drive extensions, the idea is the same. Just need something for the puller bolt to push off of. I drilled a small divot into the 5/16" bolt to guide the puller's point.
- I had to remove the passenger side fan, my puller bolt was pretty long.
- The night before pulling I sprayed a bunch of pb blaster (or whatever that stuff is called) in order to loosen it up. It broke loose without much problem.
Now in the process of putting on my new hub, had to go out and buy a threaded rod and bolts as it does not want to go on there.
As you mention people have posted a bunch of different ways to pull off the hub. Some other people used the original hub bolt (backed out halfway), or a longer bolt of the same thread size. The haynes manual recommended using an allen bolt of a smaller thread size. I couldn't find any allen bolts of the correct size so just used the 5/16" inch grade 8 bolt, it worked well.
- You should pull the balancer off first, this will allow you to use the hub threads for pulling the hub off (balancer is screwed into the hub threads I'm referring to).
- Buy 3 four-inch 7/16" bolts for the puller to attach to the hub. You can use smaller bolts I think but buying these made it easier. To use these I had to dremel out the puller a little bit, as the puller holes were a bit too small for these bolts.
- Buy 1 four-inch 5/16" grade 8 bolt that will be used by the puller to push off on. Other people use allen bolts or 1/4" drive extensions, the idea is the same. Just need something for the puller bolt to push off of. I drilled a small divot into the 5/16" bolt to guide the puller's point.
- I had to remove the passenger side fan, my puller bolt was pretty long.
- The night before pulling I sprayed a bunch of pb blaster (or whatever that stuff is called) in order to loosen it up. It broke loose without much problem.
Now in the process of putting on my new hub, had to go out and buy a threaded rod and bolts as it does not want to go on there.
As you mention people have posted a bunch of different ways to pull off the hub. Some other people used the original hub bolt (backed out halfway), or a longer bolt of the same thread size. The haynes manual recommended using an allen bolt of a smaller thread size. I couldn't find any allen bolts of the correct size so just used the 5/16" inch grade 8 bolt, it worked well.
Re: hub removal
Mine were still together and I used the 3 threaded holes in the hub to pull with. Doesn't make a difference cause the 3 holes in the balancer are clearance holes so they dont present a prob. Just take out the 3 capscrews that hold the two pieces together and thread the puller into those holes.
Re: hub removal
Yes, good point. You want to mark on the hub one mark to indicate where it aligns to the front cover, and another mark to indicate how far the hub goes into the front cover.
From what I have read, the only reason to re-align the hub is so that the hub correctly indicates TDC when the built-in hub mark is at 12 o'clock. Don't think there is a balancing issue or anything like that.
Here is a write up somebody posted when I asked for hub pulling tips:
http://crossedflags.com/nuke/html/mo...e=print&sid=56
Its for a vette, and you don't need to remove the waterpump or coolant lines, but the idea is the same.
From what I have read, the only reason to re-align the hub is so that the hub correctly indicates TDC when the built-in hub mark is at 12 o'clock. Don't think there is a balancing issue or anything like that.
Here is a write up somebody posted when I asked for hub pulling tips:
http://crossedflags.com/nuke/html/mo...e=print&sid=56
Its for a vette, and you don't need to remove the waterpump or coolant lines, but the idea is the same.
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