How can i pick up .2 ?
Originally posted by LT1derful
Yea...the ET difference at the track between LT1s with LTs against my LT1 with shortys is well worth spending that extra cash...if I were to want to go slower than I do now
- not to jack the post, but IMO, shortys are the best bet for a stock/bolt-on LT1. LTs, IMO, seem to hurt low end on cars that don't have the breathing ability to make use of the extra size of LTs. Heads/Cam cars...LTs are a MUST; again...all my opinion.
Weight can be lost without loosing amenities. Back seat...do you REALLY let people sit back there? Bumper supports...heavy *** milk cartons are what they are. Granted, the front support has a nice metal brace and likely a front end collision will undoubtably send you radiator shopping. The rear, to me seems worthless...it MAY (big MAYBE) help some...but getting hit in the butt is gonna require replacing the skirt and repainting either way. But, that's a combined (back seat and supports) 60-70+/- pounds. Ditch that sway bar and you'll see an improvement in launching (I did).
For track purpose, remove the belt for a pass at a time, good for a few ponies. There's plenty tricks-of-the-trade. Some people say "Oh...I race my car and drive it on the street the same way." And other blah blah blah. But, losers are always making excuses aren't they, lol...j/k
Yea...the ET difference at the track between LT1s with LTs against my LT1 with shortys is well worth spending that extra cash...if I were to want to go slower than I do now
- not to jack the post, but IMO, shortys are the best bet for a stock/bolt-on LT1. LTs, IMO, seem to hurt low end on cars that don't have the breathing ability to make use of the extra size of LTs. Heads/Cam cars...LTs are a MUST; again...all my opinion.Weight can be lost without loosing amenities. Back seat...do you REALLY let people sit back there? Bumper supports...heavy *** milk cartons are what they are. Granted, the front support has a nice metal brace and likely a front end collision will undoubtably send you radiator shopping. The rear, to me seems worthless...it MAY (big MAYBE) help some...but getting hit in the butt is gonna require replacing the skirt and repainting either way. But, that's a combined (back seat and supports) 60-70+/- pounds. Ditch that sway bar and you'll see an improvement in launching (I did).
For track purpose, remove the belt for a pass at a time, good for a few ponies. There's plenty tricks-of-the-trade. Some people say "Oh...I race my car and drive it on the street the same way." And other blah blah blah. But, losers are always making excuses aren't they, lol...j/k
AHHHHHH! MAKE IT STOP!
I say get a pair of BFG or Nitto drag radials. Evey tenth you shave off your 60' is proven 2 tenths in your 1/4 ET. You cut that 60' down to a 1.7-1.8 (you have more than enough power to do it). You'll get more than 2 tenths. Just remember to melt the HELL out of them. Don't stop melting them until the guy gets really pissed off.
Originally posted by LT1derful
What? Something I said?
What? Something I said?
its pretty much everything

tayln-
.1 sec in 60 ft is about .1 to .15 seconds in the 1/4- depending on what youre refrancing
Ok guys, how much are hooker long tubes and how hard are they to install? I put on my BBk shorties while the engine was out so it was a cake walk. Im a little concerned about drag radials...i dont want to scatter my rear end all over the track.
Another question, is a cold air induction that much better than stock with a crapload of holes cut in the airbox? Cuz thats what i have done...these holes are before the filter of course....thanks.
Another question, is a cold air induction that much better than stock with a crapload of holes cut in the airbox? Cuz thats what i have done...these holes are before the filter of course....thanks.
Originally posted by LT1derful
Yea...the ET difference at the track between LT1s with LTs against my LT1 with shortys is well worth spending that extra cash...if I were to want to go slower than I do now
- not to jack the post, but IMO, shortys are the best bet for a stock/bolt-on LT1. LTs, IMO, seem to hurt low end on cars that don't have the breathing ability to make use of the extra size of LTs. Heads/Cam cars...LTs are a MUST; again...all my opinion.
Yea...the ET difference at the track between LT1s with LTs against my LT1 with shortys is well worth spending that extra cash...if I were to want to go slower than I do now
- not to jack the post, but IMO, shortys are the best bet for a stock/bolt-on LT1. LTs, IMO, seem to hurt low end on cars that don't have the breathing ability to make use of the extra size of LTs. Heads/Cam cars...LTs are a MUST; again...all my opinion.
Weight can be lost without loosing amenities. Back seat...do you REALLY let people sit back there? Bumper supports...heavy *** milk cartons are what they are. Granted, the front support has a nice metal brace and likely a front end collision will undoubtably send you radiator shopping. The rear, to me seems worthless...it MAY (big MAYBE) help some...but getting hit in the butt is gonna require replacing the skirt and repainting either way. But, that's a combined (back seat and supports) 60-70+/- pounds.
That thing abosobs HELL of a lot of imapct and not only that - dispurses it the rest of the chassis. Without that- your motor is on your lap because thats the next thing to hit of any significant mass/strength/stability
Ditch that sway bar and you'll see an improvement in launching (I did).
Originally posted by treyZ28
no...
its pretty much everything
no...
its pretty much everything

For the guy looking for the extra .2 tenths.
Well, spend the $1000+ that everyone else has suggested and perhaps pick up that .2 and change your looking for. Or, buy some DRs and lose some weight and get that .2 and change you're looking for. Your choice. I'm a cheapskate, and I love the look on people's faceswhen they look under the hood and there's nothing there except my Shortys and CAI...lol. Ah, it's the simple pleasures that make it all worthwhile.
drag radials=traction =better sixty foot time.
front sway bar removal=less weight and better transfer.
CAI=better gas mileage and better performance.
You are only looking for a couple of tenths.
Put 45 pounds in the front tires to reduce rolling resistance. Stage extremely shallow (just bump in...), vaccum out the dirt, remove the back seat and passenger seat and anything else not necessary.
I took a 1993 Lumina with 97,000 miles and a 3.1 V6 to the track this last weekend and got it from 17.30 to 16.976 with just weight removal and tires pressure.
You can do it.
front sway bar removal=less weight and better transfer.
CAI=better gas mileage and better performance.
You are only looking for a couple of tenths.
Put 45 pounds in the front tires to reduce rolling resistance. Stage extremely shallow (just bump in...), vaccum out the dirt, remove the back seat and passenger seat and anything else not necessary.
I took a 1993 Lumina with 97,000 miles and a 3.1 V6 to the track this last weekend and got it from 17.30 to 16.976 with just weight removal and tires pressure.
You can do it.
Last edited by TedH; May 22, 2003 at 09:28 AM.
Originally posted by treyZ28
[B]absolutly not, i've seen several dyno graphs that snow NONE to VERY MINIMAL losses- and all below 2800 rpm anyway. LT1's need as much exhuast help as possible, thats why most cams favor the exhuast. or exhuast ports in our heads are crappy, or the intake are good- its all relative.
[B]absolutly not, i've seen several dyno graphs that snow NONE to VERY MINIMAL losses- and all below 2800 rpm anyway. LT1's need as much exhuast help as possible, thats why most cams favor the exhuast. or exhuast ports in our heads are crappy, or the intake are good- its all relative.
And HOW much more HP does he have than me?
[b]
Are u crazy? milk crates? I've yet to see a 35lb steel milk crate...
That thing abosobs HELL of a lot of imapct and not only that - dispurses it the rest of the chassis. Without that- your motor is on your lap because thats the next thing to hit of any significant mass/strength/stability
Are u crazy? milk crates? I've yet to see a 35lb steel milk crate...
That thing abosobs HELL of a lot of imapct and not only that - dispurses it the rest of the chassis. Without that- your motor is on your lap because thats the next thing to hit of any significant mass/strength/stability
And we agree about the sway bar...good.
I'd like to see an equally modded 94 LT1 with the only difference being LTs over my shortys; not dyno graphs...but timeslips. If it runs faster...well, I'm living in the wrong. Until then (or heads/cam time) I'll support the Shortys on stock LT1 - timeslip proven (see also Russ Etheridge).
Originally posted by tnthub
drag raidals=traction =better sixty foot time.
front sway bar removal=less weight and better transfer.
CAI=better gas mileage and better performance.
You are only looking for a couple of tenths.
Put 45 pounds in the front tires to reduce rolling resistance. Stage extremely shallow (just bump in...), vaccum out the dirt, remove the back seat and passenger seat and anything else not necessary.
I took a 1993 Lumina with 97,000 miles and a 3.1 V6 to the track this last weekend and got it from 17.30 to 16.976 with just weight removal and tires pressure.
You can do it.
drag raidals=traction =better sixty foot time.
front sway bar removal=less weight and better transfer.
CAI=better gas mileage and better performance.
You are only looking for a couple of tenths.
Put 45 pounds in the front tires to reduce rolling resistance. Stage extremely shallow (just bump in...), vaccum out the dirt, remove the back seat and passenger seat and anything else not necessary.
I took a 1993 Lumina with 97,000 miles and a 3.1 V6 to the track this last weekend and got it from 17.30 to 16.976 with just weight removal and tires pressure.
You can do it.

Yeah Ted, but .3 sec in a 17 sec car is like .1 sec on a 12/13 sec car
funny story though
Last edited by treyZ28; May 22, 2003 at 09:08 AM.
Originally posted by LT1derful
Horsepower...hmm, I care. LS1s have more HP than I do...yet, I've only seen 1 or 2 at MY track run times that I do. 1999 SS SLP LTs, M6...13.6 (poor launch, unable to recover)...best of day 13.2)
And HOW much more HP does he have than me?
Strange. I've removed 4 sets of bumper supports...all made of plastic. Except for that metal brace on the front support that is.
And we agree about the sway bar...good.
I'd like to see an equally modded 94 LT1 with the only difference being LTs over my shortys; not dyno graphs...but timeslips. If it runs faster...well, I'm living in the wrong. Until then (or heads/cam time) I'll support the Shortys on stock LT1 - timeslip proven (see also Russ Etheridge).
Horsepower...hmm, I care. LS1s have more HP than I do...yet, I've only seen 1 or 2 at MY track run times that I do. 1999 SS SLP LTs, M6...13.6 (poor launch, unable to recover)...best of day 13.2)
And HOW much more HP does he have than me?Strange. I've removed 4 sets of bumper supports...all made of plastic. Except for that metal brace on the front support that is.
And we agree about the sway bar...good.
I'd like to see an equally modded 94 LT1 with the only difference being LTs over my shortys; not dyno graphs...but timeslips. If it runs faster...well, I'm living in the wrong. Until then (or heads/cam time) I'll support the Shortys on stock LT1 - timeslip proven (see also Russ Etheridge).
the steel bumper is where the real wieght gains are. 4lbs = not a lot in the grand scheme of things.
and if you want to go fast, i suggest you start caring about hp
Well, of COURSE horsepower is important. But, I'm not an HP junkie who needs dyno charts and big numbers to feel good about my car. There's a funny saying that I always repeat (a friend of mine told me this).
What do 400, 600 and 800 horsepower Supras all have in common? 14 second timeslips.
And...if dude don't wanna remove his bumpers, cool. Not saying he has to. Mine are gone. GM put an air pump in my car too (along with all the other LT1 fbodies) took that thing out too...car manufacturers often do a lot of "unnecssary" stuff in order to do what people call "save your a$$". Like we'd really have AIR, EGR, CATS, etc on these cars if it weren't MANDATORY?
I'm SIMPLY offering the man some CHEAP go-fast advice. He doesn't HAVE to take it. IF he's like everyone else on here, he's obviously made of money, and dropping $2000 here and there for a tenth or two doesn't require any deliberation. For me...money is tight, so if I can go fast for cheap then I'm all for it.
What do 400, 600 and 800 horsepower Supras all have in common? 14 second timeslips.
And...if dude don't wanna remove his bumpers, cool. Not saying he has to. Mine are gone. GM put an air pump in my car too (along with all the other LT1 fbodies) took that thing out too...car manufacturers often do a lot of "unnecssary" stuff in order to do what people call "save your a$$". Like we'd really have AIR, EGR, CATS, etc on these cars if it weren't MANDATORY?
I'm SIMPLY offering the man some CHEAP go-fast advice. He doesn't HAVE to take it. IF he's like everyone else on here, he's obviously made of money, and dropping $2000 here and there for a tenth or two doesn't require any deliberation. For me...money is tight, so if I can go fast for cheap then I'm all for it.
Originally posted by LT1derful
Well, of COURSE horsepower is important. But, I'm not an HP junkie who needs dyno charts and big numbers to feel good about my car. There's a funny saying that I always repeat (a friend of mine told me this).
What do 400, 600 and 800 horsepower Supras all have in common? 14 second timeslips.
And...if dude don't wanna remove his bumpers, cool. Not saying he has to. Mine are gone. GM put an air pump in my car too (along with all the other LT1 fbodies) took that thing out too...car manufacturers often do a lot of "unnecssary" stuff in order to do what people call "save your a$$". Like we'd really have AIR, EGR, CATS, etc on these cars if it weren't MANDATORY?
I'm SIMPLY offering the man some CHEAP go-fast advice. He doesn't HAVE to take it. IF he's like everyone else on here, he's obviously made of money, and dropping $2000 here and there for a tenth or two doesn't require any deliberation. For me...money is tight, so if I can go fast for cheap then I'm all for it.
Well, of COURSE horsepower is important. But, I'm not an HP junkie who needs dyno charts and big numbers to feel good about my car. There's a funny saying that I always repeat (a friend of mine told me this).
What do 400, 600 and 800 horsepower Supras all have in common? 14 second timeslips.
And...if dude don't wanna remove his bumpers, cool. Not saying he has to. Mine are gone. GM put an air pump in my car too (along with all the other LT1 fbodies) took that thing out too...car manufacturers often do a lot of "unnecssary" stuff in order to do what people call "save your a$$". Like we'd really have AIR, EGR, CATS, etc on these cars if it weren't MANDATORY?
I'm SIMPLY offering the man some CHEAP go-fast advice. He doesn't HAVE to take it. IF he's like everyone else on here, he's obviously made of money, and dropping $2000 here and there for a tenth or two doesn't require any deliberation. For me...money is tight, so if I can go fast for cheap then I'm all for it.
Also, i'm hard pressed to see a 14 sec 400hp supra, they aren't THAT bad. only when they reach HIGH hp levels do they encounter REAL big problems
no one asked to feel good, he asked to go fast. And HP does that for you
4 lbs really worth your life/frame/cancelation of insurance in an accident?
i can see rear seats- but cutting into safety to save four pounds is just silly


