High idle when it goes into closed loop
High idle when it goes into closed loop
Any suggestions would be appreciated...
Car is a 94 25th anniv T/A I am trying to save from being parted out. So far all previous work on it I have found had been pretty poor.
The car would get intermittent spark and the harness was trashed so I replaced it with a good used harness.
It would then run for about 5 minutes and then cut out. Took it to the dealer and found the opti was getting wet. Replaced opti (with MSD), water pump, plug and wires.
Then the car would start but would jump to 2K and die.., if you kept it running eventually settle to 1K and a SES light would come on when it went into closed loop. Car showed to be running lean. Found a bellow was not on completely.
Now the car will start and idle fine- then when it warms up (and you can hear it go into closed loop and smooth out the idle) the idle will creep up to 1700. Any suggestions?
I don't have a scanner and will not have access to one until next week.
thanks in advance for any help
Jeremy
Car is a 94 25th anniv T/A I am trying to save from being parted out. So far all previous work on it I have found had been pretty poor.
The car would get intermittent spark and the harness was trashed so I replaced it with a good used harness.
It would then run for about 5 minutes and then cut out. Took it to the dealer and found the opti was getting wet. Replaced opti (with MSD), water pump, plug and wires.
Then the car would start but would jump to 2K and die.., if you kept it running eventually settle to 1K and a SES light would come on when it went into closed loop. Car showed to be running lean. Found a bellow was not on completely.
Now the car will start and idle fine- then when it warms up (and you can hear it go into closed loop and smooth out the idle) the idle will creep up to 1700. Any suggestions?
I don't have a scanner and will not have access to one until next week.
thanks in advance for any help
Jeremy
Just wait and get the scanner because it will save you a lot of guessing if you know what you're looking at and you can see the parameters as the car is running, not just the codes. It would be great if you could hook up a laptop and look at what's happening.
Idle is set in the computer and controlled largely by the IAC motor in the throttle body. You could try cleaning all of that if it's all carboned up in there and not working right but be careful not to damage the pintle, and also you can check all of the vacuum hoses for leaks and also that one that goes from the valve cover to the throttle body, and pcv system for proper operation.
Idle is set in the computer and controlled largely by the IAC motor in the throttle body. You could try cleaning all of that if it's all carboned up in there and not working right but be careful not to damage the pintle, and also you can check all of the vacuum hoses for leaks and also that one that goes from the valve cover to the throttle body, and pcv system for proper operation.
Scan software is often the best way to go, if you have a laptop. Get the free downloads from FreeScan or TTS DataMaster, and a cable from AKM. DataMaster is temporarily unavailable for downloading until they straighten out some problems with Windows 7.
http://www.akmcables.com/
http://www.andywhittaker.com/
http://www.ttspowersystems.com/
http://www.akmcables.com/
http://www.andywhittaker.com/
http://www.ttspowersystems.com/
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
armedtrigger
LT1 Based Engine Tech
10
Feb 24, 2015 08:30 PM



