No such thing as "reliable" when you are wanting that kind of hp. There will ALWAYS be something wrong which you'll have to sink money into. It's just the name of the game.

 

some people don't realize that until its too late and then they give up.
It cost to have H.P.



BTW I remember whe baxters car lost the head unit, not a pretty sight.....I know he was sick to his stomach

 

Even with a much lower HP goal, it takes a while to get all the little teething problems sorted out; I can't imagine how much more BS would be involved in something like that, especially with ideas of driving it on a regular basis. I know a guy here in GA (well, I think he moved, but he used to be in GAFBA) that made over 1000hp in a street driven black 96 TA, and by the time he got all the issues straightened out (with the help of a few local shops), he had spent probably 100k, and at the end of the build wound up selling it for probably a third of that.

 

Wasn't he sponsored for most of that endevor?

 

even at that.....it was sad,

 

There are a lot more 800rwhp drivers on the 'net than on the street! An 800rwhp small block driver (not a dyno or trailer queen or just a plain fabrication (lie)) on pump gas is more of a myth than a reality. These are seen much more often in magazines and in adolescent wet dreams than at cruise night.

None the less, the parts you have chosen seem generally ok. Even though you picked Chinese rods, at least they are finished and inspected here. You should consider something better though, IMHO. Gapless rings never appealed to me much, but I can't say that is a rational predjudice. I like block fill for a crappy production block making high horsepower. No real downside. Cryo is BS. Skirt coatings aren't worth the $$$, IMHO.

I doubt you will see 800rwhp in a reliable pump gas driver with just a blower. If you use a turbo and turn the boost down to run pump fuel on the street and turn it up for the track with race gas. That's one way. My way uses N2O and a blower with 100 octane unleaded. Since they sell it around here at the pump, it is an 800rwhp pump gas combo with 800rwhp available on the street. Since it is curently down, I don't know about reliability. But I put over 5,000m/y on it until I stupidly combined a HV pump with a stock pan. Haven't got around to a rebuild as I got involved with my race car.

Don't forget to budget some bucks for a fuel system. FI EFI making 800rwhp needs LOTS of fuel at high pressure.

Good luck. If you think this is easy or cheap, notice the dyno run number on the graph: #252. These runs were on a number of different configurations, but on the final version there was 10-12 hours of dyno time getting it right. Some of that was making mechanical changes/adjustments. But at regular rates, that alone would be at least $1,500.

 

Thanks rskrause! I was actually alittle worried about those rods as well. I suppose a set of Oliver ones would be in order.

I know 800rwhp on a street car is going to be hard, that being an understatement. But if I can yield 700rwhp It would still be a vary powerful street machine, hitting the 800 goal is less important then the reliable and daily driver goals. I just don't want to build a shortblock thats good for 600rwhp and then in 2 years decide i want to shoot for 700 or even 800 and have to build another shortblock because i didn't buy high-end parts to begin with.

Better to build extra strong and not need it then find out i need it when it all goes up in smoke.

 

VK, Go to SPEEDINC.com and on the right side of the home page go down to where it says INTMD8's Turbo LT1 SS. Check that puppy out. Uses twin turbos but the HP is just what your looking for. He is emissions except, so yes, he does drive it on the street. Plenty of pictures and videos to drool over too. He is a member and does post once in a while.

 

Thanks! I'm going to check it out right now

 

Let me know what you think. I can't imagine what kind of money Jim has in that thing.

 

Rich, do you have any track times for that beast?