High HP dependable LT1
Well, spun another bearing in my motor so its time to build a new one
I'm thinking of pushing almost 800rwhp, and I want a very dependable motor. So no expense spared! Planning to spend ~2,000$ on just the rotating assembly. Need some expert opinions on how to do this, I've already called VRE and they pointed me in the right direction. Here is where I'm looking...
Callies Dragonslayer crank 3.480"
Compstar 3D H beam rods 5.7"
Diamond Custom pistons w/ minimum overbore (~.30") w/ coating on skirt & top
4-bolt splayed main caps w/ ARP Main studs
Clevit bearings throughout w/ coatings
Total Seal Max gapless rings
Cometic Head gaskets w/ ARP head studs
Cloyes Double roller timing w/ electric water pump
Aftermarket oil pan (Mildon 7qt possibly)
Possibly considering Partial block filler and Cryo freeze (not sure?)
Again its going to be mostly a daily driver, long trips and hard racing at the track couple times a month. Must run on 93 octane pump gas. Will run Meth/Water injection. Going to try and stay with the blower, but may switch to turbo.
Looking at about 5K$ for just the shortblock to be finished and ready to go.
Opinions and ideas welcome!
I'm thinking of pushing almost 800rwhp, and I want a very dependable motor. So no expense spared! Planning to spend ~2,000$ on just the rotating assembly. Need some expert opinions on how to do this, I've already called VRE and they pointed me in the right direction. Here is where I'm looking...
Callies Dragonslayer crank 3.480"
Compstar 3D H beam rods 5.7"
Diamond Custom pistons w/ minimum overbore (~.30") w/ coating on skirt & top
4-bolt splayed main caps w/ ARP Main studs
Clevit bearings throughout w/ coatings
Total Seal Max gapless rings
Cometic Head gaskets w/ ARP head studs
Cloyes Double roller timing w/ electric water pump
Aftermarket oil pan (Mildon 7qt possibly)
Possibly considering Partial block filler and Cryo freeze (not sure?)
Again its going to be mostly a daily driver, long trips and hard racing at the track couple times a month. Must run on 93 octane pump gas. Will run Meth/Water injection. Going to try and stay with the blower, but may switch to turbo.
Looking at about 5K$ for just the shortblock to be finished and ready to go.
Opinions and ideas welcome!
Sold my N2o .. twin turbo might not be a bad idea... but first things first the engine! 
I was hoping to get some decent feedback on the parts i've already looked at. Also I want to know if anyone has done the block filler and cryo treatment and what their thoughts are.

I was hoping to get some decent feedback on the parts i've already looked at. Also I want to know if anyone has done the block filler and cryo treatment and what their thoughts are.
Yes, i know the 10-bolt will never hold. But like i said this is more of a engine question then the whole car. I need to get the project started first guys
I think you guys are almost as excited as i am about this project
I think you guys are almost as excited as i am about this project
And i am broke.. well kinda...lolI'm going to have about 1,200$ a month for a budget to build this engine. I'm hoping to have the engine done before the end of summer. But If i have to wait till next season no big deal, by then i could have 10K in the car and it should be completely ready.
I was hoping the engine would last a few months.. i guess a couple weeks is all i got
who would have thought ~10psi would have that effect
I can give you a little insight into a 383 LT1 that reliably made 1,125 flywheel HP on 20+ # of Vortech boost. The block was not filled, and was not cryo-treated. Crank was a Callies Magnum, rods were Oliver Billet (close to $3,000 on those two items alone). Oliver forged rods were not up to the task. Block was an OEM straight 4-bolt block, with upgraded caps and studs. Custom blower pistons from BME. Stock oil pan, blueprinted stock oil pump, 80psi spring, welded pickup. LT4 Extreme Duty timing set, stock water pump. Was routinely spun to almost 8,000 RPM. Ran 9.05@155MPH, with a 3,900# race weight. Could have run faster, but the Vortech decided to shed the tips off the blades.
It's going to cost alot more than 10k to transform your car into an 800rwhp daily driver. Rear end, 2500, good luck getting a 4l60e to hold 800rwhp all day, driveshaft, suspension, converter, brakes, ect. If you're only looking to spend 10k you might want to lower your goals. And 800rwhp will pretty much be useless on the streets unless you want to do all roll races like supras. But if you are dead set on it, call up a few shops and see what they reccomend. I'm sure VRE could build you a shortblock.
thanks injuneer for the input, that help alot!
As for 10K on the project. I've already spent 10K on the care for upgrades, MANY more then listed in my sig since the sigs are now limited to 5 lines. And yes, i do plan to spend ALOT more.. maybe 30K extra... but all that in time. I need to get step 1 done first, then i can move on to step 2.. and 3..
I'll need a Compete engine managment like FAST.. I'll need to go through the ENTIRE driveline.. wheels, tires, brakes oo my
The only thing left stock might be the steering wheel
I just would like the input for the engine at the moment. I'm sure some of you are trying to talk me out of my high goals.. but i'm very motivated. Some might not even bother adding their input since this is somewhat unrealistic i know.
Its my money, i would just like everyones input. I welcome all, even if you think i'm completely nuts!
As for 10K on the project. I've already spent 10K on the care for upgrades, MANY more then listed in my sig since the sigs are now limited to 5 lines. And yes, i do plan to spend ALOT more.. maybe 30K extra... but all that in time. I need to get step 1 done first, then i can move on to step 2.. and 3..
I'll need a Compete engine managment like FAST.. I'll need to go through the ENTIRE driveline.. wheels, tires, brakes oo my

The only thing left stock might be the steering wheel

I just would like the input for the engine at the moment. I'm sure some of you are trying to talk me out of my high goals.. but i'm very motivated. Some might not even bother adding their input since this is somewhat unrealistic i know.
Its my money, i would just like everyones input. I welcome all, even if you think i'm completely nuts!
Thanks! i didn't think of that. And i am planning to have VRE fully balance the rotating assembly before they send it to me. Then having my Flexplate 0 balanced and double check everything before even considering putting the shortblock in the car.



