i HAD this problem...i just read the 1st page and the last page, so i don't know what all has been said, and it seems like the problem is stil going on. i changed almost everything too and nothing worked, so i called John at Fastchip www.fastchip.com he told me to adjust the throttle body, after doing this its idled fine.

good luck...by the way i have a 52mm throttle boddy. but i would still try it.

-justin

[This message has been edited by XLR-ATE (edited September 11, 2002).]

 

I just fixed my hesitation, SEAFOAM! I think that is all i need to say.


------------------
1995 Z28 m6
FIPK, !CAGS, !AIR, !EGR, !MAF descreen, !Cat straight pipe, Hurst Billet Plus shifter, TB bypass, LT4 KM, Airfoil, Borla catback, 160 stat', SLP shorties

 

I'm curious about relearning for the automatic, is it more than just disconnecting the battery? I've tried damn near everything and I still have the problem.

Mescaline

 

I have it too, im going to replace my plugs wires and coil but I found a tear in my intake elbow, i hope thats it.

 

i know have this problem, started yesterday. car is at 90k gonna change fuel filter and let you know how that goes. To the top for us. also............we shoudl seriously get a petition going and let gm know what is going on, this isnt right.

 

I cured a similar problem on my friend's Grand National a few weeks back.

He had an intake manifold leak and faulty MAP sensor harness.

We resealed the intake and bought a new MAP sensor and harness.

Problem disappeared.

 

I have a high rpm miss also, anyone else with both? I think its my elbow and it could also be my opti going

 

After way too long - (somewhere in this thread I was complaining and venting regarding this) - I have finally fixed my bogging, stumbeling, hesitation problems. I replaced my Opti, my wires, plugs, water pump, intake elbow, transmission, control module, O2 sensors and a heck of alot of other things - I found out today it was my MAF all along. Basically, I could have bought a new one and saved probabily over $6000. Good thing about it was my mechanic said most of the work needed to be done down the line anyway. Basically 2 years ago I ported and polished my MAF. Turns out on the DynoJet we isolated it to my MAF and basically tuned the problem out with LT1 Edit without having me to buy a new MAF. "These things are like finely tuned instruments" he said referring to the MAF, "and ANYTHING you DO TO THEM can jepordize it's performance" This referred to even too much oil from a K&N induction even though I have a Morrosso CAI. So this leads me to believe that ANYTHING even cleaning the MAF, or maybe even descreening the MAF could cause even the slightest stumble. Im just glad to have my Z28 back and with all the other mods now Im looking at about to 275RWH and well over 350 hp in the engine with bolt ons and intake manifold porting.

Now off to the races.

Good Luck to all

-Mike

 

I just got a new MAF as well! We think alike, except that was my first purchase

 

What is the concensus as to what to do about the problem? Do you think the GM dealers have the equipment and know-how to find the problem and possibly save me extra money by not changing parts that will not solve the hesitation problem? Heck, I'd be willing to pay to have the potential needed repairs done if it can be found without a hit and miss approach. Please address this question if you can.

It seems a multitude of repair solutions are used to fix a common problem with our cars. Mostly it seems the ignition system is the culprit but where can a novice like me go to get first hand professional repairs?

 

I believe my "stumble" was a bit more extreme than most of you guys. In fact with the car floored it would barely get to 70mph. I just took the Opti apart today and the Rotor was broken, in addition to that all the contact were extremely corroded. Its almost back together again. As soon as I fire it up...Ill let you guys know if it fixed it.

 

wow just took me almost 3 hours to read all that. today I raced my buddy with my Z, he has a stang. In the past he was no match for me, but today he took me til about 60mph then I cought him and took him. PLEASE FORGIVE ME!

The only thing is today it was cold out and my car stayed below the first mark on the temp guage. I did notice a fair bit of fluctuation on my volt guage. I mention this because awhile back I disconnected the alternator and forgot to completly hook it back up. Later that day when I was running out of juice the car was running like a bag of ####. Not too sure if this is related at all.

I just put on a granatelli MAF about 3 mounths ago so I can't see it being that, the wires were changed about the same time, along with the fuel filter. Up til now the car has been great.

My car also likes to burp, backfire, say hello, or whatever you want to call it. I thought this might have been from the car way to running rich. It will do this pretty much whenever it wants. After hard acceleration, and some times at low rpm if I tap the gas a couple of times. The car also blows black smoke sometimes ot WOT sometimes.

My car has edelbrock headers, no cat, pro flow muffler, 3.73's, dun up A4, K&N cold air, granatelli mass air, and relocated IAT.

Gonna try a few things tomorrow if anyone else strikes gold please let me know.

 

add 1 more LT1 owner with this problem. has anyone gone to the corvette forums and asked about this problem? they used to have the LT1 as well, so they should have experience with this problem. there are a ton of corvette speed shops, they must have run into this before.

i've been told by another camaro guy in person that i've got a miss at low RPM's... i've always felt it, i just didn't know what exactly a miss felt like.

as i'm sitting at idle, sometimes it'll idle kind of rough. when i'm accelerating slowly, usually about 1,500rpm it'll surge. after 2,100rpm the car pulls like a ****. at idle, it always seems to be kind of rough, lots of vibrations, but the RPM's don't jump hardly at all, most of the time. also, it is hard to start sometimes, even when warm.

i have had it scanned by a local enthusiast and he found that my BLM's ertr 109 - 110 on both banks, INT's were 128 on both sides. we took these readings at idle, but the BLM's went to 128 at about 4000rpm's.

I have:
brand new fuel pump & sending unit (installed by dealer)
brand new Accel coil
brand new MSD 8.5mm wires
brand new AC Delco plugs gapped .05
brand new fuel filter

I've cleaned / fixed:
intake oil leak
shot carb cleaner into the MAP sensor
cleaned off MAF with electronics cleaner
completly cleaned out throttle body and IAC with carb cleaner
1LE intake bellow
had a shop run a MotorVac for an hour

my mods:
hooker catback
descreened MAF
throttle body bypass
polly tranny mount

i've got an opti that might be going in next, and i'm going to try running with the MAP sensor unplugged for awhile, then with the MAF sensor unplugged for awhile. i'm going to try holding the coolant line away from the IAC, and relocating the coil and ignition control module.

has anyone managed to fix their problem yet? i've read through all 18 pages (damn my eyes hurt).

one more thing, my new plugs: 1 was pretty dirty, 4 had some black on them, and 3 looked brand new. this is when i pulled them after about 2k miles. what might this mean?

 

Just to let you know I feel your pain. I've been in the same boat for the last 4 months. You should probably do the opti next.

 

also, forgot to add this, but my symptoms ONLY show up after its warmed up... and seem to be worse when its colder out