which heads boys?
which heads boys?
alright gentlemen. (or uh ladies if theirs any?) i got my 94 z, a4, stock. I wanna do a little HP gain. i got my K&N CAI, flowmaster cat back exhaust, and pacesetter longtubes. My question is this (i have a blown HG and they want 200 for deck and clean + check for leaks?). should i just buy a new set of heads for more HP gain? if so which ones would you guys reccomend? i hear a lot about patriots. i'm looking to spend about 800 on heads and 1.6'' RR's. together, it probably wont happen though.
thanks
thanks
Send your stock heads to Loyyd Elliott and have them ported. http://elliottsportworks.com
For "a little HP gain" you really can't beat having your stock heads ported by a knowledgable LT1 porter. He will be able to recommend (or supply) a matching cam. For anything less than 500HP at the flywheel, there is no need for aftermarket heads.
So you have a $800 budget and want more power. 200 is going to rebuilding the heads. 1.6rr & springs will be 350. So you've got 250 to spend, Id go with a 3.73 gear. Its not going to give you any power but it will gave me 2 tenths off my 1/4 mile times. Not bad in my eyes.
Gears don't help without traction. I think if your dealing with the heads, then spend the money there, ONCE. I'd say send them out to Lloyd and get a "budget" porting job with stock valves, and then you'll be ready for a camshaft and other modifications later.
You looking at $800 + shipping for Lloyd to clean them up, deck em, and port them. So compared to your local shop you getting really good portwork done for $600. Then save up another $200 after that and get some used 1.6 Roller Rockers and new LT4 Springs. Don't forget you'll need intake and head gaskets.
Just remember you won't need to change your converter for heads, but you will if you get a cam. Also I'd be more concerned with the strength of that 4L60e than gears at this point in the game. Although if you get a LT4 Hotcam you won't need to change the springs, just slap the cam in and go.
You're about to cross a line in the sand where the stock drivetrain goes from holding on to running ragged. This side of the sand starts to requie deep pockets real quick.
-Dustin-
You looking at $800 + shipping for Lloyd to clean them up, deck em, and port them. So compared to your local shop you getting really good portwork done for $600. Then save up another $200 after that and get some used 1.6 Roller Rockers and new LT4 Springs. Don't forget you'll need intake and head gaskets.
Just remember you won't need to change your converter for heads, but you will if you get a cam. Also I'd be more concerned with the strength of that 4L60e than gears at this point in the game. Although if you get a LT4 Hotcam you won't need to change the springs, just slap the cam in and go.
You're about to cross a line in the sand where the stock drivetrain goes from holding on to running ragged. This side of the sand starts to requie deep pockets real quick.
-Dustin-
alright guys. i think i'll just send it into lloyd elliot. i really dont wanna spend money like crazy. im not like the dude from the fast and furious. i dont get brand new big blocks with TPI for free whenever i need one lol. anyway, i only want about 400 to 450 horse then i'm done. the engines got about 132K on it, but i plan on keeping this car for life and passing it to the boy or girl. it's my wifes favorite car and my first. also sorry this is off topic, but do you guys send your cars to paint booths or do you buy crap from the store for 24.99 a quart and spray it yourself?? my wife was in an accident with my Z and smashed the quarter panel all up so i replaced it and i gotta get it along with the car painted
Well, it all depends on your ability. If all you have to do is swap a new fender on, that should be pretty easy and should be done by you. If it is going to take some stretching/pulling to get things back in shape, take it to a shop. Learning how to do basic paint jobs is never a bad thing, but don't expect your first few try's to be anything pretty.
I've painted a few Vettes and always bought "system" materials. Systems like DuPont Chroma system where all the materials were designed to work with each other. Surfacer, primer, base coat, clear coat and all the additives.
The only time I shot anything with DupliColor clear from O'Reilly's was a removable roof and it only lasted a year before it began peeling. Even with proper surface prep and adhesion promoter the clear peeled. So my advice is to steer clear of inexpensive (cheap) materials.
Jake
The only time I shot anything with DupliColor clear from O'Reilly's was a removable roof and it only lasted a year before it began peeling. Even with proper surface prep and adhesion promoter the clear peeled. So my advice is to steer clear of inexpensive (cheap) materials.
Jake
Last edited by JAKEJR; Jan 22, 2010 at 07:46 AM.
I agree with that as well. The quality of your paint job depends on a few factors.
1st is your base prep work including the metal work, prep, etc. Everything leading up to the actual spraying
2nd is the quality of the items used. Cheap Paint can look good, but won't last like a good quality paint will.
3rd is the skill of the person doing the paint job. Only way to learn that though is to read the basics and just do it. My cousin painted his Chevelle 9 times before he got good enough to achieve what he wanted, but he has painted prolly 10 to 15 cars since then.
1st is your base prep work including the metal work, prep, etc. Everything leading up to the actual spraying
2nd is the quality of the items used. Cheap Paint can look good, but won't last like a good quality paint will.
3rd is the skill of the person doing the paint job. Only way to learn that though is to read the basics and just do it. My cousin painted his Chevelle 9 times before he got good enough to achieve what he wanted, but he has painted prolly 10 to 15 cars since then.
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