The popping sounds like the timing is off or plug wires are crossed. Are you 100% sure the timing set and opti are installed right?

 

Well when I was installing everything, I looked on some previous posts about timing and according to what everyone was saying, dot to dot, cam at 6, crank at 12. I was sure I had it right, but now I'm doubting myself. I just want to be positive that it's not something as simple as loose plugs, no tune, no maf, or a combo of all them. I'm hoping that tearing back down into the timing will be a last resort, but I realize I will probably have to at one point or another unless I get it started.

 

With which cylinder at TDC?

 

I would say its a timing issue. I'd check the opti indexing/plug wire location, if the motor is popping its firing when its not supposed to.

Also you do you have your MAF plugged in but no intake elbow installed? If so the car won't start/run.

Put your stock injectors back in as it'll only take about 5 mins.

I've fought my own no starting problem after a motor swap and I spent a day and half fighting the problem because I was sure I installed my opti correctly. Finally in a last ditch effort, I pulled the opti and found it was one hole off. If you aren't 100% sure, check it.

 

I believe the #6 cylinder should be at TDC when the crank and cam dots are aligned. With the cam dowel at about 3 o clock. That's according to shoebox, so I'm sure it's accurate.

Yeah, I know I will probably have to end up taking the opti off again, but like I said, I'm just going to make sure its not a simpler fix first. Also, I'm waiting for my tune to come in so I won't have worry about it be being the injectors or any other computer related issue. And no, the maf was never plugged in. The only thing sucking air in is the TB.

 

Why don't you simply put number 1 at TDC and remove the distributor cap. The rotor should be near 6 O'Clock position. If it is, you have answered the question of cam timing and whether the opti was installed correctly.

While you're there, you can double check the firing order.

 

So I can do this without really removing anything? Waterpump, opti, etc.? Sounds like a good way to kill 2 birds with 1 stone.

 

If you did, you would know you have to remove the crank pulley from the hub (hub will remain on the crank). The WP has to come off and then with the help of a torx socket, the distributor cap can be removed from the opti while the back half of the opti stays in place.

 

before tearing it apart, how about just buying a fuel pressure gauge so you can check the psi while cranking, it might just be a weak fuel pump on its way out or clogged filter.
how about bad gas, was it sitting for a long time?
When you did the redneck fuel pressure test did the fuel squirt out forcefully or did it kind of ooze out?

 

The fuel pump was replaced a couple years ago, but I suppose that could be a possiblity as there was one time (before I adjusted to the gas gauge) that I JUST barely made it to a gas station before it started sputtering like it was going to die. But the redneck test showed more of a forceful squirt than an ooze. The car has been sitting since about Halloween sometime, so I doubt the gas is bad, I used Sunoco gas which is usually very good and I've never had a problem with it, I think they have 93 and I always use the highest octane.

The next thing I am doing is waiting for the tune to come in. Then with the new tune, I will go back and make sure all plugs are tight, and wires are not crossed. I'm also going to install ALL of the intake ducting, plug in the MAF and make sure all other connections are made and in the right place (I believe there's only one place each sensor will plug into, since I tested it out and the harnesses only connect to the correct one they're supposed to go in)