LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

H/C swap, won't start

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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 03:37 PM
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H/C swap, won't start

Just put the LE2 kit in, and it won't start. Cranks like it wants to, then it will pop a couple times, and it just repeats this. I'm a total noob and I don't have any fuel pressure gauges or anything to check it. I need some guidance as to what could be wrong. I'll make sure the wires are all going to the correct places and everything, but aside from that, I'm lost.
Thanks
Old Nov 26, 2007 | 04:02 PM
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redneck way to check and see if you at least have some fuel pressure is to take the cap off the schrader(sp?) valve and push in on it. Its like a valve stem in a tire. Then you will know you at least have fuel to the rail.

Pops a few times...
Tripple check your wires. I once had a car that I would swear was wired right and turned out I had 2 wires swapped at the opti.

Chance the valve adjustment is way off.

Could have put the timing chain/gears on wrong....

I think thats the bulk of no start / popping for a h/c swap.
Old Nov 26, 2007 | 04:05 PM
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Are you sure you put the cam dowel pin in the correct hole in the back of the Opti?
Old Nov 26, 2007 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Injuneer
Are you sure you put the cam dowel pin in the correct hole in the back of the Opti?
Yes, I put it on the hole with the mark designated for it. I read it will only really go on the whole way if you have it in the correct hole. Mine was on nice and tight.

I'll check all the wires over and over again... but I have a feeling I may have just ended up screwing up on the valve adjustments...it was my first time and I'm a little unsure about it.

I'll try the redneck fuel pressure test as well lol.
Old Nov 26, 2007 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 95z28man
Yes, I put it on the hole with the mark designated for it. I read it will only really go on the whole way if you have it in the correct hole. Mine was on nice and tight.

I'll check all the wires over and over again... but I have a feeling I may have just ended up screwing up on the valve adjustments...it was my first time and I'm a little unsure about it.

I'll try the redneck fuel pressure test as well lol.
Maybe hold a rag or something over it... remember we are talking about gas. Don't burn anything up.
Old Nov 26, 2007 | 07:12 PM
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Heres a little bit of an update. According to the "redneck fuel test" I have fuel pressure.

Here's some more details on exactly what happens when I try to start it: It starts off somewhat strong, but the longer I hold the key in, the more EVERYTHING dies, I'm talking gauges, lights, everything. Could this maybe be a sign of a weak alternator or battery? Or is this just because I've been holding the key for so long that it's losing a lot of juice?

Battery and alternator are both somewhat old. I've never replaced the alternator as long I've owned the car which is going on 3-4 years now, so I have to assume it's never been replaced...

Earlier in the day, it got to the point where almost all it was doing was "clicking".
Old Nov 26, 2007 | 07:29 PM
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Check For firing, Next double check the rocker arms.
Old Nov 26, 2007 | 07:43 PM
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Probably a dumb question but how do I check for firing?
Old Nov 26, 2007 | 08:00 PM
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Ok well... it's all juiced out now. The alternator isn't even able to turn the belt anymore... At least earlier the belt was spinning. I think I will replace the alternator just to be sure.
Thanks for all the help so far
Old Nov 26, 2007 | 08:14 PM
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Id make sure you don't have any terrible vacuum leaks also like your brake booster hose, egr, etc.
Old Nov 26, 2007 | 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Intense_Spence
Id make sure you don't have any terrible vacuum leaks also like your brake booster hose, egr, etc.
You know what, that reminds me... My two block off plates on the back of the manifold are on nice and tight, but the one that covers the opening on the header didn't clamp down the whole way... there was a small gap around the perimeter of the plate. Would this be something that stop the engine from even starting?
Old Nov 26, 2007 | 08:57 PM
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if the car never started the alternator never had a chance to work, it sounds like you have been cranking thee engine over alot which has discharged your battery. you first need to charge the battery. it is probably not the cause ofthe no start but you will never find it with a dead battery.
also the alternator does not turn the belt the crankshaft turns the belt. the alternator will not charge at cranking speed so there is no reason to replace the alternator.
check for loose grounds. recently did a h/c swap on a freinds 98 ls1 car and had a nostart afterwards due to a loose ground on the back of the cylinder head.
as was mentiond befor you could have a bad vacum leak.
you might try to see if you have spark by putting a spare spark plu in the end of one of your plug wires and groundin the plug to the engine and then see if there is a spark. it should be blue orange will not usually be good enough to star a car.
your redneck fule test indicates that you have fule pressure. if the spak test turns out good then you are looking at a timing or mechanical issue.
good luck i know how frustrating a no start problem can be.
Old Nov 26, 2007 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by greenmachinedriver
if the car never started the alternator never had a chance to work, it sounds like you have been cranking thee engine over alot which has discharged your battery. you first need to charge the battery. it is probably not the cause ofthe no start but you will never find it with a dead battery.
also the alternator does not turn the belt the crankshaft turns the belt. the alternator will not charge at cranking speed so there is no reason to replace the alternator.
check for loose grounds. recently did a h/c swap on a freinds 98 ls1 car and had a nostart afterwards due to a loose ground on the back of the cylinder head.
as was mentiond befor you could have a bad vacum leak.
you might try to see if you have spark by putting a spare spark plu in the end of one of your plug wires and groundin the plug to the engine and then see if there is a spark. it should be blue orange will not usually be good enough to star a car.
your redneck fule test indicates that you have fule pressure. if the spak test turns out good then you are looking at a timing or mechanical issue.
good luck i know how frustrating a no start problem can be.
I see. Well you learn something new everyday lol. Do LT1's have any grounds at the back of the engine anywhere? I don't remember seeing any. I did rip the long ground wire from the coil to the ground on the driver side by the radiator and I patched it up with electrical tape, BUT I just looked and the nut holding that wire to the head was loose! So I'm charging the battery right now and praying...
Old Nov 26, 2007 | 09:56 PM
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i may be wrong bu that gound that you spaek of grounds the icm. patching it up with electrical tape may not be suficient. you may need to make a new ground strap. this may be the source of your problem.
Old Nov 26, 2007 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by greenmachinedriver
i may be wrong bu that gound that you spaek of grounds the icm. patching it up with electrical tape may not be suficient. you may need to make a new ground strap. this may be the source of your problem.

I'm definately hoping this is the source of the problem. I haven't tried starting it since I started charging the battery. I tightened the loose end of the ground to the head but won't have a chance to try it until tomorrow when the battery is charged.

What do you suggest I do to make a new ground strap? Can I buy a new strap like the one used? If so, I don't know what the wire would be called that I need, so some info there will needed as well.

Thanks a lot so far... hopefully this will fix it.



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