LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

H/C swap, won't start

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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 08:55 PM
  #31  
Kevin Blown 95 TA's Avatar
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Maybe flooded the crap out of it with the bigger injectors. See what the plugs look like - just pull a couple and see if they're drenched with gasoline or carbon fouled (probably not since you didn't run it).

Also, does it crank normally? Or faster like there's no resistance?

You might pull the intake off the TB, ground the coil wire, open the TB and listen while someone cranks it. See if it sounds like there is any air coming back out of the cylinders.

Also, make sure ALL the sensors are connected - go over EVERY connector again.
Old Nov 30, 2007 | 09:25 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Kevin Blown 95 TA
Maybe flooded the crap out of it with the bigger injectors. See what the plugs look like - just pull a couple and see if they're drenched with gasoline or carbon fouled (probably not since you didn't run it).

Also, does it crank normally? Or faster like there's no resistance?

You might pull the intake off the TB, ground the coil wire, open the TB and listen while someone cranks it. See if it sounds like there is any air coming back out of the cylinders.

Also, make sure ALL the sensors are connected - go over EVERY connector again.
I've actually been trying to start it without all the intake ducting. I'll take the plugs out and I think I will replace them even though they are brand new because I banged them around a little putting the headers back on. It seems to be cranking normally, maybe a little faster if anything. I'll get my bro to crank it while I listen for air coming back. I'm not totally sure what to listen for but I'm sure it can't be that hard to tell. I'll go over the sensors again too.
Old Nov 30, 2007 | 11:23 PM
  #33  
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If you have intake valves hanging open, you might hear a 'whoosh' out the intake (butterflies open) as you crank it. If it cranks real fast like there isn't much compression with plugs still in it, then possibly the cam timing is off. It's possible that it could do a little of that anyway depending on the grind of your cam if the dynamic compression was off (I don't think this is your problem). Your plugs are probably fine if they're not wet with gas or have cracks in them - you might want to recheck the gaps. If you have a cracked insulator, that can cause a misfire, but not what you are describing.

I think make sure you are getting fuel and spark, then it's a matter of if the timing is right (opti or timing chain)

If you think it is soley fuel related, you can squirt some (fuel or starting fluid) into the intake and try to start it and see if it runs for a few seconds, but just be careful doing this - maybe have a friend stand there with a fire extinguisher just in case.
Old Nov 30, 2007 | 11:35 PM
  #34  
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If you are trying without the "intake ducting", do you have the mass air sensor hooked up somehow?
Old Nov 30, 2007 | 11:39 PM
  #35  
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no, for a basic start test, you can leave it disconnected. Actually, it will run without it, but in speed-density mode.
Old Dec 1, 2007 | 06:24 AM
  #36  
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So if I understand the story to this point, we're trying to start an engine that has been upgraded to 38# injectors and a new cam, with no tune, no MAF and what sounds like timing problems..... correct?
Old Dec 1, 2007 | 08:02 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Injuneer
So if I understand the story to this point, we're trying to start an engine that has been upgraded to 38# injectors and a new cam, with no tune, no MAF and what sounds like timing problems..... correct?
You nailed it. It actually has no intake ducting before the TB at all though. The goal was to just see if it started at all, but it didn't. It also has LE2 heads now, with a 58mm Summit TB and a new LT1 intake ported to match. I have the tune ordered and it should be here pretty soon. I think I ordered it on Monday.
Old Dec 1, 2007 | 10:04 AM
  #38  
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Why not hook up the elbow and MAF.... it would take about 2 minutes. Did you try starting it with your right foot on the floor? With that large an injector (stock tune??) you are pouring fuel in there (probably saving yourself some engine damage by not starting it until you have the correct tune). Opening the throttle all the way will put the PCM in "clear flood" mode and reduce the fuel flow. Also check that you have your coolant temp sensor hooked up. If it isn't, the PCM sees -40degF coolant temp, and pours even more excess fuel in for a very cold start. And, if you still have your stock injectors, why not put those in to test start it (don't take it out and go WOT)?

You will also have to verify the cam and Opti timing, if the new tune doesn't help it.
Old Dec 1, 2007 | 10:12 AM
  #39  
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like ENGINEER said, the stock tune is set up for stock inj and since you installed the 38 lb inj, they are still spraying the same amount of time and DROWNING the spark plugs.

Get a tune in there before trying anything or at least put the stock inj back in there with the stock tune if you MUST crank it.

Not sure how it will run anyway with the stock tune.

You will need to reinstall the MAF and ductwork and most likely a new set of plugs.

All of the extra gas can pretty much wet sand the cylinders and make the rings not seal anymore.

Lloyd
Old Dec 1, 2007 | 11:26 AM
  #40  
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Maybe he can just put in some stock injectors and try to get it running.
Old Dec 1, 2007 | 12:05 PM
  #41  
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Well after all the time and money I've spent so far, I'm gonna play it safe. Before I even crank it again I will wait until I have the madz28 tune, new plugs and I will install all the intake components just to eliminate any guesswork.

In the mean time, is there any anything I should do about any of the potential flooding I may have done by trying to crank it so much? I don't want any more problems obviously, and definately don't want to damage anything.

Thanks
Old Dec 1, 2007 | 12:14 PM
  #42  
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You could crank it a little without the plugs in it and change your oil if you really suspect it got flooded, but I doubt it's that bad - and we haven't even established whether or not you got any fuel. Were the plugs wet or gas fouled?
Old Dec 1, 2007 | 12:31 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Kevin Blown 95 TA
You could crank it a little without the plugs in it and change your oil if you really suspect it got flooded, but I doubt it's that bad - and we haven't even established whether or not you got any fuel. Were the plugs wet or gas fouled?
I haven't pulled the plugs yet. Hopefully soon.
Old Dec 1, 2007 | 12:37 PM
  #44  
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I just pulled the #1 plug, it looked new still and smelled lightly of gas.
Old Dec 2, 2007 | 12:07 PM
  #45  
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Hey guys, still haven't tried to start it since the tune hasn't come yet, but I have a question. What exactly is the popping noise when I try to start it? Is it just air being sucked in and attempting to combust? One thing that I discovered when pulling my #1 plug is that somehow it was actually loose before I even started to turn it. I was wondering if maybe more of the plugs might be loose? Would that maybe have something to do with the random pops, but no start?



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