ooops, typo, thanks for the catch. You know what i meant though. I have dynoed 2 different cars and both were M6 so i couldnt tell you about being in 3rd, but i do know that people have hit rev limiters before and that has screwed things up?? I really wasnt trying to make anyone feel bad, but the dyno that we use here seems to be pretty acurate. For the M6, both times i have gotten it into 4th, waited for the signal and nailed it. I just wanted to throw out an example of what Bolt on LT1's here are doing. Good Luck figuring it out and i hope for the best.

 

Your torque curve should start right inbetween 280-310 with those mods and peak around 4000 rpms.
Your horsepower should start around 70-90 and cross the torque curve at around 5300 rpms.

You werent shifting gears while on the dyno were you???? that chart is with out a doubt ****ed up.

 

GO AND GET YOUR MONEY BACK!!!!!!

Either the Dyno was broken or the operator didn't know $hit about how to use it.

What gear were you in?

~Adam M.

 

A bone stock LT1, even on a Mustang Dyno (which has nothing to do with the Mustang car), should never show below 200RWHP.

I've personally watched a bone stock down to the filter 96 WS6 Formula A4 dyno 250RWHP on a dynojet. Car didn't have a ton of miles and was in good running order.

 

NEVER NEVER NEVER GOTO THAT SHOP EVER AGAIN (unless you are going to try and get your money back)



that has to be the most retarded crap i have seen in a long time.

whoever was dynoing your car had no idea what they are doing.


goto a different shop.

 

Imagine how ricers feel when they dyno their cars at that shop, lol











jason

 

also from what i read on the chart you were rich not lean.it was reading like 11-1 afr

 

<dyno operator> Here's your dyno chart, sir. 36.2 peak horsepower and 22.7 peak torque. Keep that hoss between the ditches now. </end dyno operator>

 

Don't be upset man that Dyno was ***! Please find a real DYNOJET and your results will be alot better. Screw that Mickey Mouse speedshop

 

Thanks everyone for the replies. To answer some of the responses:

-the guy seemed to know what he was doing. His father
recently passed away and he took over. I'm not sure how long
he had doing this kind of work though.
-my buddies car is a high milage car, right around 190,000 miles.
-we both have had recent tune-ups including new wires, plugs,
and I myself have a new fuel filter and gave the fuel system and
the intake the Seafoam/Deep Creep treatment before about 2
months ago. The opti is two years old. The place I bought it from
screwed the other up after getting it wet (side note: is 95 the
year they started making the opti vented?)
-94NDTA: I thought I remembered something about this also but
wasn't sure. The 1st and 2nd times I did as the guy said and
brought the car to 1800 rpm's and then puched it to redline. The
third time I let it shift a few times at a low RPM before I puched
it.
-c5formetoo, you are right it was rich not lean and it was dead on
at 11:1

Thanks everyone for the respones. Overall, I wasn't really disappointed but I knew something had to be up. The car pulls really hard all of the way through and I have beaten several slighly modded Mustangs and a couple of F-bodies. My buddies car and mine both run consistent 9.1's in the local 1/8 with horrific 60 ft times with the exact MPH's. I just wanted to find out why my numbers appeared to be so far off. The whole time the guy was like "of thats about right for a lightly modded car like yours and his." Even after I said a few times that these cars came with 275 flywheel power and the drivetrane loss was roughly 18-20% and wasn't making near that. Oh well, lost $50 but won't make that mistake again.