1racerdude does know his ****. If theres something I dont know, I go by what he, or Bret say. They build beastly engines for a living. They know a thing or two.

 

So 1racerdude, no cam break in before driving it? I'm just curious because you hear so many different storys, it's hard to get it straight. I did a cam break in on jack stands on mine and then drove it. Checked for leaks and such during that time, got my a/f's dialed in and then did a quick oil and filter change before the 1st drive to get all the assembly lube and what ever else was floating around in the engine out of there before driving it. Would you say that was the wrong way to do it?

Ken R.

 

I've changed Dozens of Hydraulic ROLLER cams and never had to break them in. Now a regular Hydraulic flat tappet will need to be broken in with RPMs and cam lube (moly).

 

Did ya not read my post's?

Hyd rollers need no break in.

 

Engine break in, using an engine dyno. Solid roller 381. Start engine on engine dyno, run it up to 2,000rpm under light load. Check A/F ratio to make sure its not being over-fueled. Continue on engine dyno for one hour, varying engine RPM and load, up to medium loads. Drain oil, pull filter, inspect oil and filter. Check all bolt torques.

Replace oil and filter. Begin dyno tuning, with pulls up to 800 flywheelHP.

Note... no cam break in.

 

Yes, i know theres no break in time for a roller. I should have been more specific in my post. I ran it for a duration like a cam break in but breaking in the cam was not my reason for that. I did it more to get it up to temp, see whats going on, get some oil flowing through there and also get the oil up to temp. Then after an oil and filter change, cooling it down, and putting an in the ball park tune in there, I wen't out for a drive for a while. While driving it, I didn't make no all out WOT runs, but did dip it into WOT for a second or 2 to see how low the A/F's were dipping on my wideband to see what I need to do to the fuel next. So what I was asking was weather that break in was fine or if it was wrong. Doesn't really matter now I guess cause it's over and done with and I haven't had any issues. And yes racerdude, i read your post.

Ken R.

 

how long does it take for this slick out to start? I am having an issue w/ something so I can just idle it, trying to fix the issue right now.
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...16#post4102216
only 5 miles on the new motor, but a little bit of idle time getting RRs right.

 

I have the same question, but different issue. Its "burning oil" issue. Maybe its my piston rings.

I didn't prime the oilpump (maybe the engine builder did that I don't know), and I filled the oil before I bolt the intake manifold. Then I did the first startup at around 2500-3000rpm. What could be the worst thing if the engine didn't break-in properly ?

 

is your engine smoking alot?

 

Only at some cold starts (15-20 seconds), and sometimes at WOT. You will say valve seals, but the bad rings cause blue smoke at WOT right?
I didn't pay attention to engine break-in, because I read "drive like you stole it".

 

put a brick on the pedal and walk away. come back in 20 minutes and check the oil. good to go.

 

how many miles do you have on the new engine? may be the rings have no seated yet, what type of rings do you have?

 

500miles on the new engine. I was using 10-40 semi synthetic, and I changed the oil and now I'm using Mobil1 15-50 full synthetic.

 

I would suggest running non synthetic oil for the first couple of oil changes. Run full synthetic only after break in.

Mine smokes on cold starts, but I dont have any oil seals at all. It's not a daily driver either. Solid Roller cam motor. I run it hard after the first 5 min oil change, best way to break it in.

Some guys run full synthetic, some don't. You will get arguments from both sides as to whats better, but you def dont want to run full synthetic for break in. Need to let the rings seat first.

 

i was told to put more then 1k miles on the engine before i even think about running synthetic. i don't know if that info is correct or not because the engine builder who told me that breaks engines in on a cradle with no load on them. he also told me to slip a -8 steel braided line over the supply hard line on the fuel rail and put one of those fake AN looking hose clamps and it should hold fine

can anyone shed so light on when switching to synthetic on a new engine can be done? i have 100miles on the new engine, no smoking at all, no blowby either, anyone have a suggestion on what oil i should use?