Hey guys, tommorrow is the big day. I just want some input to make sure I'm not going to hurt anything.

-Fuel pressure, what should the fuel pressure be with the engine off? I know i'm supposed to be at 43-47psi with vac line off at idle, 43.5psi being the best I believe. I'm using a Aeromotive FPR

-I was having driveshaft trouble so I can't have the driveshaft in, is this going to cause a problem, will ATF be pumped out the tailshaft. I know ATF will drain out if you tilt the tranny when its full. Has anyone tried this?

-To break the engine in I will first prime it for 1min with the starter, then when it starts keep it above 2000rpm going up and down the rpm range for 25mins. Then turn it off, and change the oil and look at the filter etc..etc

all input is welcome, my car has cost me alot of money and I don't want to screw anything up.

 

I would think keeping it above 2000RPM's is a bit excessive if you do it for 25 minutes straight.

Did you prime the oil pump? If you did, then you dont need to crank it for a minute. And if you didnt, you need to pull the intake off and do it right. Cranking it for 1 minute is not really going to do a whole lot. You want to get it started, and get the oil up top and on the cam and everything as fast as possible.

I would probably prime the oil pump. Start it and immediately take it to about 2000-2500 RPM's to get the oil PSI up as fast as possible. Once you get good pressure, you could drop it down to idle with no problem. However, you should vary the RPM's. I would say to try and keep them between idle and 2500-3000RPM's. Dont go doing any hard revs on it. Just easily roll the RPMs up and down.

I would change the oil after 5 minutes. Then run it again for 20 minutes. Also, when you do it, have someone else contorlling the throttle while you overlook everything for leaks/problems. After the 20 minutes it up, take it out and get it up into a higher gear, make a few runs at or close to full throttle, varying the RPM's and dont take it all the way to red line.

You need to do this to properly seat the rings.

And when you do it, slowly make runs. Start at 1/4 throttle, then half, then WOT ... Slowly work your way up ... Example : Take from crusing RPM up to say 3500 at WOT, let idle down, run up to 3700, let it down, run it up to 3900 ... Do this until you are eventually making a WOT run to or close to, redline.

And do yourself a favor and confirm this with your builder.

 

Ya DON'T want to break it in or try with no load. I would crank it check for leaks,get it to idle right,fix anything ya find wrong,then when ya get the driveshaft break it in driving it.
I would keep it about 2000 until it warns up or until ya have to shut it off for a problem and bring it to normal temp then set everything and correct any problems and refire it to make sure problems have been corrected and put her to bed till ya get your DS. Make sure ya got a good bat so it don't struggle to fire. Just fill the filter and fire it as turning with the starter may run it out of assy lube and not be fast enough to prime it. If it wants to stall,let it and restart it. If ya don't it will probably backfire and possibly hurt something.
This is just me and the way I do it,sooo.

 

ok sounds good, but will ATF be pumped out the tailshaft with no DS in it?

 

Read what 1racerdude said.... you don't want to run it in with no load. The first guy who responded apparently missed your comment about not having a driveshaft, since he told you to go out and "make a few runs".

You want to run it at reasonable RPM, varying the RPM....UNDER LOAD.

 

ok, I'll try to get this problem sorted out, maybe you guys can help becasue the drivetrain board doesn't seem to be too active.

There is something wrong with the tailshaft on my new tranny, it was rebuilt to handle high HP by a guy who builds racing trannys. The new DS i have and my stock one only slides in 1 1/2" I just tried them on my old tranny and they slide in about 4". I'm not sure if there is something wrong with the bushing or with the output shaft. I took a few pics. In the pic of the tailshaft there is a larger gear you can see, i'm not sure what it is.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j9...Picture045.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j9...Picture044.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j9...Picture043.jpg

 

The DS doesn't even look like its going into the tailshaft housing straight. Looks like the output shaft is sort of bent upwards in the 1st photo, although its such poor quality its hard to tell. That last photo appears to show the DS cocked at an angle compared to the tranny.

Are you sure its not just the air bubble that gets trapped in the base of the yoke tube when you slide it over the output shaft, with lots of grease to seal the splines and prevent the air from coming out?

 

it is going in straight, and i think its just the angle of the pic that makes the output shaft look bent, heres another one thats more straight on but is still really crappy http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j9...Picture046.jpg . and there is a hole at the back of the yoke to let air escape. at first i thought it was just that yoke, but the stock one doesn't go in far either

 

You need to contact the guy who built the tranny. Hopefully its not a case of the output shaft splines being twisted. Have you looked all the way into the housing to see if they are twisted?

 

they looked fine when i took a look, the guy said he tested it on his tranny dyno, i'm wondering he didn't notice anything when he was hooking it up. i guess i'll have to take off the talishaft to get a better look.

 

Measure the SIZE of your snout on the front yoke and the size of the old one.
It probably needs shoe shinning with emory paper.
The new tailshaft bushing + a new yoke will make it not go in and DON'T beat it in.

 

i'll give that a try racerdude

 

Why do you need to do the break in under load vs not under load?

Ken R.

 

i'm not sure roguedriver, my machnist told me its ok to do it with no load, but racerdude says with load, i think i'm going to do it with a load on the engine becasue racerdude was right about the bearing and he seems to know what hes talking about. now the driveshaft problem is fixed i realized i ordered a u-joint girdle for a Ford 9" when I actually need on for the 1350 stlye. oh well, can't break it in yet

 

No load does not put the pressure on the rings to expand them out hard against the cyl wall allowing them to slide lightly over the wall and smooth out the wall and the rings. This is called slick out and the rings will never seat.


roguedriver,
He said no load meaning no full on 1/4 mile passes. That doesn't mean to do it jacked up,that's really no load.