LOL...In all actuality, you can make a 4L60E shift VERY firm for about $30 worth of parts. Shifting firm isn't the whole answer, though. You need holding power, and line pressure rise and stability. The weak pump slide spring is what destroys many 700/4L60E's. I use either a Sonnax, or Art Carr slide spring. The design of the 700/4L60E causes it to drop pressure at high RPM's. This works great for family cars, but high RPM's are where we need pressure.
For all those not knowing. ALL LT1 F-bodies have Corvette servos in them already. I've seen MANY people get charged extra for them on a rebuild! I use Fairbanks billet 2nd servos and Sonnax 4th servos in my extreme racing transmissions. You'd better like a firm shift if you're going to use them, though. With a Vette servo, you can block the 1-2 and 3-4 accumulators to give a firmer shift, and you can leave out the 2nd gear checkball (I do this on ALL 700/4L60E's, except 6 cylinder units). I use a stiffer pressure regulator sprong, and .500" boost valve and sleeve. I use an Alto "WIDE" RED LINED (NOT KEVLAR) band. You have to be careful with the wide band, though. The reverse housing that the band rides on has to be perfectly flat. If the original band was burnt, it will usually warp/wear the housing. This will cause the wide band to only make contact on the outside edges. You can have the housing machined, but you'll need to lengthen the band apply pin if you do this.
A real big modification is to take the "load release" springs out of the 3-4 clutches and throw them away! The decrease the holding power of the 3-4 clutches to the point where they're allowed to slip. I also use (7) 3-4 frictions, and (6) .079" (700 style) 3-4 steels with the 4L60E upper and lower pressure plates. Alto gets carried away by trying to jam (9) frictions in the 3-4's...Bad idea! Steels soak up heat. When you try to put too many clutches in, you have to use thinner steels (.059"). Making them that thin causes them to warp when they get hot.
I also drill 6 clutch feed holes in the seperator plate to speed up the clutch/ band applies.
These are a few (but not all) of the things I do.
I get my parts from Sonnax, and Fairbanks, but the checkball, accululator, and drilling the holes modifications are almost free.

Frank

 

If Transfixleo has been building/modifying 4L60E's longer than I have, he was doing it BEFORE they started putting them in cars!

Frank

 

I was refering to his knowledge of transmisions.

 

Now see I did not want this to get into a pissing match.
I just wanted to know what exactly the Trans Go does that is bad.
Our tranny guy here in town has a great reputation and he uses TG shift kits so maybe he is doing something inside the trans to help his last.
I think this is coming down to don,t put one in a stock trans that does not have the internals to stand it.
Thats what I wanted to know.

 

same here . to sum things up is it fair to say that on a mostly stock motor/bolt-on car a transgo unit prolly wont harm the tranny, and will provide you the performance you desire. but on a track car running 12s and faster the weaknesses of the transgo will come into play, and consequently the tranny will suffer? if so then this shouldnt even be up for discussion, who in their right mind would build that kinda power and run a stock tranny (just a high stall and shift kit)? everyone should know that h/p engines need h/p trannys and rear ends behind em and a bolt on trans wont cut it. does this kinda support the point you were trying to make frank?

 

Sounds like this frank guy is doing a lot of sales pitching here and not a whole lot of explaining.

chevyboy_z28 i think has hit it right on the head. He summed it up quite quickly i might add too...unlike this frank guy. LOL Anywho...i like my transgo, it works for my application...but yes, i do believe that if the car is gonna be a race car and running a lot and producing high numbers...then you need a racing trans

 

All LT1 f-bodies have the corvette servo? I thought it looked different...

 

I have had mine TransGo in the car 2 1/2 years, close to 1000 passes on it. Not to mention running in the 11's not low 11's but never the less 11's. Plus the 60' times has been between 1.5's and 1.6's on a cheap rebuild by me!

You might build killer transmissions but mine has been doing pretty darn good with just $300 bucks in parts and the TransGo kit.

 

from what i heard from him (frank) and what ive heard from you guys i think ill go with the transgo, b/c my car is basically just a bolt-on car and is my daily driver. so the POSSIBLE flaws of the transgo unit are irrelevant to me b/c right now the car doesnt make enuf power to expose them anyway (if there are any in the first place). if i drop into the lower e.t.'s then ill balance it out by so called "bulletproofing" my trans.

 

Frank has explained in past threads how the transgo burns up the clutches.

My trans is doing great,11.0's in drive,and nothing from transgo. Believe who you want,but my lil trans that cost less then 1/2 of the other "full race" units does just as good if not better.

 

I have Transgo the forward gears work great but reverse has a rubbing sound like the breaks are grabbing. I also know When it was in stalled in my truck it never ran right again my friend also has problems with his shift kit from Transgo. The only reason I have one in my car I bought it with it in there. Anybody here who knows why my reverse would make this sound please E-mail me. Thanks.

 

Anybody know the answer to the above question I asked you help would be great. Thanks