99Z28RS

I am looking into getting a Transgo in the next week, and wondering if its worth it, if it wears the tranny down and wondering if anyone could give me an average install price on one, OR if its easy enough to do it myself.....Also i really don't know a whole lot about T/C's or the best gear ratios for an A4 but if anyone could suggest a good combo for A daily driver Street/Strip, I would Reall appretiate it!!!!!

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99 Z28RS Navy Blue Metalic
SLP LoudMouth
SLP Air Temp Module
MTI Carbon Fiber Air Lid/K&N
EGR Mod,FRA Mod
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Future Plans-
SFC's
Strut Tower Brace
TRANSGO Shift Kit
Vigilante 3200
New Gears

Bull_in_a_china_shop

see my sig
the converter is a great street & strip starter set up! Worry about gears later.

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2000 Z28-Deep Maroon
Mac Headers With Off-Road Pipe
Vigilante Torque Converter 2800 stall 2.5 STR
Hooker 3" catback w/cut out & McCord
FTRA Kit
Dynamic Motorsports SFC's

Camaro ChriSS

Although a lot of people are tempted to add a shift kit to firm up the shifts, many tranny experts will disuade you from doing so when you have a higher stall TC because it adds a lot of stress to the transmission lines. I don't know about Precision Industries, but Yank advises against it.

I currently have a 2600 stall with a STR of 1.9. Very streetable, but I find that it blows my tires away and puts too much stress on the rear. That's why I'm upgrading to a SY3500 with a STR of 1.6... awesome mid range power yet easy on the tires and rear end. With the lower STR, it means that you have less off the line grunt (still a lot though) and more mid-upper range power. It5 also means that you have a looser convertor when driving around town (which I don't mind).

I have 3.23 gears. Some guys go to 3.73s with a stall above 3000 and a low STR (below 2.0) to get away from some of the looseness, but the combo of 3.73s with a 3200/3500 means that traction is going to be very difficult and the rear end of your car is going to get hit hard.

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2000 Pewter SS #C161
SLP Dual-Dual, Bilstein suspension, Eibachs, 21mm/35mm swaybars, GMAF
SLP CAI w/lower plate, !EGR, Direct-Flo, SLP STB, Ported TB, ASP Crank pulley
SLP/AAM Differential cover, SLP 2600, Powershot, MSD wires, NGK's,
BMR Boxed LCAs, BMR PHB, G2 DSL, Heavy Lead Foot...
http://community.webshots.com/user/murlynd

99Z28RS

So what about getting like a B&M shift + for cheap, and then later getting a T/C??? but could someone give me the run down on the differences in stalls and what they mean(Higher, lower), and could someone explain gear ratios to me, like what is the difference between stock, 3.23, and 3.73....I would greatly appretiate it!!!

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99 Z28RS Navy Blue Metalic
SLP LoudMouth
SLP Air Temp Module
MTI Carbon Fiber Air Lid/K&N
EGR Mod,FRA Mod
-----------------
Future Plans-
SFC's
Strut Tower Brace
TRANSGO Shift Kit
Vigilante 3200
New Gears

Trevor98ramair

As you may or may not know, a quality aftermarket torque converter is the best bolt-on mod that you can do for an auto! I've tried 5 Yank converters and 4 Precision Industries Vigilante converters ranging in stall from 2,800 to 4,600, so I have a little experience with them in LS1's. I will try my best to answer your questions.

A higher stall torque converter helps in a few ways. First of all, it will keep the engine higher up in its powerband at WOT. You will eliminate the dead spot that you currently have just after the shifts with the stock converter. When you have a higher stall, it is going to require more "pedal", so to speak, to get the car moving. So, you will need to give it more gas to get the car moving compared to the stock unit. FYI, the stock unit footbrake stalls ~1,600 RPM. When you look at the stall # (such as a 2,800 RPM stall), it does NOT mean that you will have to see that amount of RPM's before the car is moving. The true stall of a torque converter means that the engine will be able to rev to the specific stall set before allowing the car to move. You would need a trans brake to see the true stall of any converter, but that's a totally different thread. FYI, a trans brake locks 1st gear and reverse together, so when it is engaged you can floor the car and it will rev up to the RPM dictated by the RPM stall of the torque converter (assuming you don't have a two-step limiter set at a lower RPM). With a mild converter such as the Vigilante 2,800 stall, there is going to be just a slight difference in drivability. It will take a little more gas to get the car moving but not much. The higher you go with the stall the more you'll notice it when driving because you'll have to apply more gas. If you are looking for a mild converter that will do well on the street and at the track, then the Vig 2800 will be perfect. IMO, the Vig 3200 is the best street/strip converter out there. It will perform excellent at the track yet won't be too "loose" on the street for daily driving. It was the first aftermarket converter that I put in my SS, and it was a daily driver for a while. It shaved a little over .6 off in the 1/4-mile on ET Streets. I would consistently cut 1.68-1.69 60' times with the Vig 3200, 3.23:1 gears, all of the bolt-ons, and stock internals.

The other aspect to consider about torque converters is the stall torque ratio. This will dictate how hard the converter hits the tires off of the line. If you're running a Super Yank 3500, then you will have a soft-hitting converter that will work VERY well on the street because of its 1.6:1 STR. If you have a Pro Thruster 4400, then you will have a HARD-hitting converter off of the line due to the 2.7:1 STR. The Vig converters have the STR pre-set, so you don't have to worry with telling them what you want. As you raise the stall speed, the STR will increase as well. Yank can set the STR to a specific # if you're wanting something specific, but I don't recommend doing that unless you have a good understanding of converters and how changing the STR affects the efficiency, launch ability, etc.

Gearing is an entirely different topic. To avoid from continuing on with another paragraph, 3.23's will work well with a converter. There's no need to upgrade to 3.73's until you start upgrading heads/cam. I upgraded to 3.73's from 3.23's, and I only picked up .02 in the 60'. They're good, on average, for .07-.08 in the 1/4 at best, so IMO it's not worth all of the money you'll spend on the parts and labor. I know of quite a few others that have done the gear swap w/ stock internals and got the same results as I did.

We carry all of the Vigilante converters here at L.G., so let me know if I can get one on order for ya. I also HIGHLY recommend an auxiliary trans. cooler to keep the trans. fluid temps down. A higher stall will build more heat, FYI.

Trevor - LGM

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'02 SS: 11.63 @ 114.06 MPH, 1.588 60'; 3,515# raceweight, 1,102' D.A.
naturally-aspirated with bolt-ons, a cam, and a fat converter!
L.G. Motorsports (972) 272-7753
Check out the SS!

99Z28RS

Thanks a **** load, that just answered and tied up every question i had, I will not be able to purchase a converter any time soon, but as soon as I am able I will definately give you guys a call, THANKS!

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99 Z28RS Navy Blue Metalic
SLP LoudMouth
SLP Air Temp Module
MTI Carbon Fiber Air Lid/K&N
EGR Mod,FRA Mod
-----------------
Future Plans-
SFC's
Strut Tower Brace
TRANSGO Shift Kit
Vigilante 3200
New Gears

99Z28RS

OH one more thing Trevor, so Can i safely say that a Transgo wouldn't be worth getting and just wait for a T/C or yes get one???? I mean hey I'm just trying to grab a few gears when I stand on it =D

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99 Z28RS Navy Blue Metalic
SLP LoudMouth
SLP Air Temp Module
MTI Carbon Fiber Air Lid/K&N
EGR Mod,FRA Mod
-----------------
Future Plans-
SFC's
Strut Tower Brace
TRANSGO Shift Kit
Vigilante 3200
New Gears