Did you do anything after the car died? I notice the voltage went down to zero in the middle of the engine being off and the knock count and voltage went all over the place. Did you give the car gas and it died right after that?

 

I reved it and let off and it died. Then i tried cranking it again a couple times while still recording but it didn't start back up. Let it cool and it fired and idled great.

 

This could be totally unrelated to what is happening, but years ago my car would die every once in a while and I could not figure it out. I took it to a mechanic and got lucky that it did it while the car was hooked up to some scanning device. He was able to immediately identify the problem. He said the starter was worn out and was causing the car to loose power and die. I thought he was crazy, but after replacing it, the car never did it again. I am not saying to replace the starter, but these kind of problems are hard to track down as you know. Did you check to see how the car acted in cooler temps? I am sure things like the pcm getting to hot could cause issues.

 

That is a strange one. I figured once the starter started the car it's job was done. I'll prob just start replacing parts cause the datalog isn't showing me anything. Coil, opti, pcm, starter, frigging tires! Who knows. Car runs perfect when it's cold before it goes into closed loop and a little bit after that. It never happens below 170 degrees according to my logs.

 

Have you actually checked the fuel pressure while the car was running and saw what happened when it died? My fuel pump years ago would fail for a second, just long enough to kill the engine. It only did it when the temp was over 95. It started back up each time after a couple minutes and I went a year before replacing it, since it rarely gets that hot here.

 

Not the best approach for repairing anything. There are some simple tests you can do to save you time and of course money.

First, eliminate a closed loop control problem from a hot electrical device breakdown. Simply unplug one of the O2s and see if it runs ok once hot. If so, you have a control problem. If not, search for a device that breaks down when hot.

To do this, start from dead cold in the morning if possible. Start it for just a few seconds to be sure it's running ok and then shut it down. Now grab a blow dryer and pick one electrical item at a time to heat up to the point of just not being able to touch it, hot. Now briefly start the engine to see how it runs. If it's running good, shut it down fast to not heat up the next electrical item prematurely.

Continue on this way until you've covered all the items in a particular system like the ignition system. For example, the coil, then the ICM, then the opti itself which is harder to get to. Then last the PCM.

If you do think you've found the item after warm, get it cooled down and test it to see if it's working good. Then warm it up again to confirm you found the right one.

The whole process above would start one afternoon to pull the O2 connector and finish up in an hour the next morning. The cost to you is zero other than time. Be smart, don't throw money at the problem.

Late edit: I noticed you have a walbro pump. We just helped someone with a dead NEW one. I have read here over the years about them and from what I have read, there is nothing good to say about them. I would be checking on the fuel pressure when you have a problem. You were told this several times early on and for what ever reason, you chose to ignore the advice. If you want to throw money around, buy a fuel pressure gauge with a long hose. Best investment you will ever make.

I noticed you said it whines when the key is on. Means nothing. It may be dropping low in pressure causing your entire problem. Walbro's remember what I said about them and a recent NEW one.

 

Flame suit on for not doing any research before I make a suggestion.

Long ago a friend had a similar problem. Turned out that the contact for the chip in his ignition key was worn out. If you had a spare key this is another free test. Although it does not coincide with your open loop closed loop issue.

 

When ever you have a problem with the key not correctly touching the ignition contacts for the VATS system, the security light either blinks or is on steady.

In 4 pages of conversation the security light was never mentioned.

 

And if the engine is running, having been started with the key working correctly, the system will not shut down the engine just because the key pellet loses contact. That would be incredibly dangerous. The "SECURITY" light will go on steady and stay on, indicating you have a problem that needs to be corrected.

 

dalynchmob, If you want a complete idiot to come provide moral support or turn wrenches when you figure out what is wrong, I live close by.
I may make poorly thought out suggestions but I follow directions well.

I even have a fuel pressure gauge you could use.

 

That would definately help out. Better than buying one that'll i'll probably never use again. Thank you. When are you available to come down? Your gauge have a hose on it? If our time off doesn't work out can i come up and grab it from you to use?

 

PM sent.

 

OK tested fuel situation today and it's not the issue. Spiked to 45 and held good with the key on. Let the car warm up and do it's shut off thing. Turn the key off and on again after hooking the gauge back up and that's all good. Tried started the car and it would just turn over. Let it cool for about 8-10 minutes and it fired back up again and ran for about 5 minutes and died again. How sensitive is the optical sensor in these optis?

 

So, did you eliminate a closed loop issue???????

 

Not yet i gave up last night. Will it still go into closed loop with the sensor unpluged? Not too knowledgable on the whole closed/open loop thing as i said before.