Upload your DataMaster data log file to an FTP site, so we can take a look at it.

 

Yes, the O2 mV. On my datlogs the O2's change 10 times a second. They look something like this for the one second. 89 107 869 537 591 77 899 67 189 355. During WOT my readings were between 919 to 957 and never changed more than 5 away from the last number. Some scanners only give you a snap shot and not real time. I recommend only AC delco after all the stories about the different aftermarket brands. I am sure someone can name a few brands that worked for them, but I always try to go oem for any sensors. They were a pain to remove the old ones, so expect a little fight getting them loose.

 

Ftp?

 

A website that allows you to upload your files, so that others can download them. There are free sites.

FTP = file transfer protocol

Here's an example:

http://www.mediafire.com/?aeueyar3n90193a

 

Thanks. Here it is. I think. Do i have to save it as a certain type of file type for it to work for you guys?

http://www.mediafire.com/?ibpiysjonx45dz9

 

good infor in this post....Please keep us informed to how you make out...

 

I'm just thankful their are people that know more than me and share their knowledge with us. As soon as i here from injuneer i WILL share the info. Thanks to all. I love this site!

 

Compare record 3729 to record 3730. Everything related to the fuel and ignition goes to "0". MAF reading goes to "0". The resistance devices - MAP, TPS, IAT, CLT, etc. - are still functioning. You lost power, and it coasts to a stop. Looks like what you would see if you shut the ignition off. Then the system voltage drops to "0" in record 3906.

I'm assuming record 5840 was the stall with it sitting in the driveway?

I'm thinking you are losing the power from the ignition switch, and the items you do see on the scan are from the PCM BAT circuit that supplies the power that keeps the volatile memory when the ignition is off.

Just a guess though, because I've never seen a log that looks like this.

 

When I had the ignition switch start to go out on me, the car would just die like the key was turned off. Sometimes it would start back up right after. Sure sounds like the ignition switch. Not hard to replace, but you need some tools and ignition experience.

 

You're talking about the ignition switch in the column? The tumbler the key goes into right? I'm pretty mechanically inclined and do a lot of my own work, what type of tools are we talking about? Would the engine turn over but not start with a bad ignition switch? When it shut down on me last friday before the tow truck came, i'd try it every couple of minutes and it would turn over but not start.

Well i'll start there, then move on to get some AC delco O2 sensors, i think i have bosch's in there now.
Thanks

 

Not the key cylinder. The ignition switch is further down the column, and operated by a rod from the key cylinder. Shoebox has a "how to":

http://shbox.com/ignsw/ign_switch_repl.html

 

I used shbox's site when I change my switch. Make sure you donate... You'll be back to his site off-ton if you do your own work.

 

Will do. Let me this prob fixed then i will. How do i donate to this site too?

 

I was always able to start the vehicle right after it happened. Might depend what got worn out to exactly what symptons you would see. I took mine apart and could see some real wear and tear.

 

Ok replaced the ignition switch. The battery was disconnected for a few days and the car has been sitting since the 23rd. Got everything back together and reconnected. Turn key on, heard fuel pump whine, cranked egine for about 8 seconds before it started? Kinda freaked me out like "what'd i forget to reconnect". Gonna do some idle/revving in the driveway and record a datalog. And if everything goes well i'll do a test run record tomorrow.