No one is calling you a liar. More like the dyno might be lying.

 

Thanks SnakeOiler, I'm not sure what my malfunction is with posting the image.

 

The dyno doesn't really lie. Air conditions will give SLIGHTLY skewed results once in a while even after SAE corrections, but only about +-3% max in my experience.
The main ways to cheat the dyno is to either (a) put a heater near the temperature sensor so the SAE correction is applied in your favor, or (b) jack up the smoothing function, which again only yields minimal gains.

When I was cammed with bolt-ons, my car only put down 310hp/345tq at the wheels. After what I've seen by working at a dyno a couple years, there is no doubt in my mind these results with said mods are possible w/o "the dyno lying." Some of you guys need to get over yourselves and appreciate the good fortune of others.

 

Graph posted in the first post.

 

Link doesn't work

 

THan your going to have to click it on the 3rd page where SnakeOiler posted it for me.


Sorry, I tried.

 

Hey guys, I'm not really on these forums a whole lot but had to join this one. I am the guy that did the work to this car and when I was told what the car made I said "yeah right, on a 50 shot!" I wanted to clear up a few things. The shortblock still has the original timing chain! The heads do not have like 5 hrs of porting, maybe 2 hrs were spent on the heads and intake total. And they have a Napa valve job. The thing that amazes me is the car was brought to me after months of sitting with water in the 7 cylinder (head gasket) I had to use methodes I am not proud of and was unsure if the car would run let alone perform! Also to back up the dyno results A) this was on 18" wheels and B) my C5 dyno'd @ 415 rwhp on the same dyno and traps 121 mph. so the dyno has to be close.

 

What you quoted when saying this CLEARLY said that he was almost 20hp shy of the bolton record. And he continued to say that it was no longer bolt on only. IN THE SAME SENTENCE!!!!!

 

Well i stand corrected on the heads and intake. Ken or KFK, is my buddy who did the work. I guess theres only 2hrs in them? I assumed more.

The shortblock did have water/coolant sitting in it for 6 months. I was going to rebuild the car but Ken thought i would make it with just the headgaskets. I guess he was right.

 

I think what most people don't realize is the variation between dynos. Dynojets give noticably higher hp/tq ratings when compared to a Mustang dyno. For example my 383 only made 310hp/362tq on a mustang dyno. The reason for this was because the converter was unlocked (loose) and the operator told me that it runs about 8-10% lower than a Dynojet. He said I should be around 365hp/400tq with a dynojet and a LOCKED converter. I also believe my drivers rear caliper was sticking...but either way it all makes a huge difference.

 

Mkay... that's why we've seen all these 400+rwhp cars that have been dynoed all across the US for the last few years where ET's do not add up.
You forgot one other way a dyno can be wrong. Every dyno needs to be calibrated before it can use any air/temp references.
I've been on three different dynos all w/in a months time that have supplied a 50rwhp difference between them- where the operator said, "man... there's something wrong with your car for those mods..." The next week I cracked his *** in his car that allegedly made more rwhp than mine on his dyno.
A dyno is only as good as the operator and whether or not that operator either spent the money to have a tech calibrate it or if they knew what they were doing and that it has been calibrated correctly. Same thing goes for a Mustang dyno. Some dynos do not have sensors and all data has to be entered manually. There are ALL kinds of variables that need to be taken into consideration.
Peak dyno numbers on the internet are nothing but JIBBA JABBA!

 

While ET's are clearly HP/TQ dependent, they are also dependent on drivetrain setup (6spd versus auto, stall speed or clutch, gears), suspension setup, race weight, and of course track conditions and driver...though you obviously already knew these things.

Just because somebody makes 400+rwhp, they will not run low 11's if the rest of the car is not set up for low 11's.

I expect my car to put down around 600rwhp in a few weeks, but I don't expect it to run 9's when I go to the track like many 600rwhp drag cars are capable of running. I'm guessing it'll run 11.1-11.6 seconds in the 1/4 mile until I have the desire to set up the car for the drag strip.

slomarao, which track do you race and are you going to run it anytime soon?

 

My mistake. I mislead you. I forgot to mention both ET and MPH. However you are wrong- MPH is a tell tale sign of horsepower. Not ET. I've also never known someone to try and judge what kind of torque output a certain vehicle has by MPH or ET. Also, trying to argue how consistent different dynos can be is a waste of time. So many variables have to be taken into consideration including (which was not mentioned before) engine temperature. Your experience alone does not mean what you state is completely accurate no matter how you want to argue it.

 

i think you're putting words in my mouth which i never said. i never stated MPH wasn't a tell tale sign of HP, but again it can vary with driver and it really varies with track conditions. I used to trap 104-106 at NTR while I consitently trapped 107-108 at Norwalk just a couple hours away.

PS...HP is a function of TQ, meaning HP is calculated from a measured TQ at a measured RPM. With a car's known weight, gear ratios, coefficient of drag, altitude and rolling resistance, it is possible to closely "judge" what a cars ET and MPH should be. There are online calculators with these functions built in. Now you've seen somebody judge ET by torque output.

BTW, does NAPA really do valve jobs? I may utilize that on an old set of heads I have for our truck if its true.

 

I wonder if this one is gonna get locked?

slomarao's dyno