Pulled the blower off the car for now since it wasn't working, so i loaded my stock tune. I had installed a walboro255lph and since then my car is running pretty rich- 13mpg. At WOT the wideband is reading 11.0. Should I change the target AFR in Tunercat to compensate? Cruise is oscilatting between 13.8-15.2 and idle is usually around 14.2-14.9, but the minute is goes to PE I'm at 11.0. Any suggestions appreciated.

 

Check your fuel pressure. If the pressure remains in the specified range (for normally aspirated operation), the fuel pump size is not impacting the tune.

How did your setup add the extra fuel under boost - FMU, 2-bar MAP sensor tune, etc.?

 

I never really got boost working, for some reason I was getting 0psi at WOT to redline. I need the car to be reliable right now, so the belt was removed and intake rerouted. I made my own custom tune in Tunercat, 1 bar map, MAF before blower. Stock injectors and FPR, didn't use the FMU. With the car not making any boost- 11.3 WOT with the blower hooked up. So I loaded my old NA tune back in the PCM without the blower hooked in. Thats a good suggestion on Fuel pressure, I just assumed it would be 43psi, I'll buy an autometer FP gauge when I get some cash together, I've been wanting one anyway.

 

The fuel pump shouldn't cause your fuel pressure to increase unless it's grossly oversized for your application and the regulator can't compensate. A 255 won't move that much fuel though.

43 psi is fine.

I was rereading your original post about no boost. https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=740704

At idle the blower should be moving a ton of air; like point 3 leaf blowers at your face and you'll have some idea. You should not be able to cover up the blower discharge as it will move whatever you cover it with or blow around it (it's an air compressor after all).

Since you have the blower off the car you may want to pull the volute completely off and make sure it's not cracked anywhere. When you get around to putting it back on the car put some soapy water in a spray bottle and spray every pipe connector and weld to check for leaks. Also spray the intercooler welds to do the same. If that doesn't turn up bubbles then spray the intercooler core itself.

 

Thanks for chiming in. I noticed the 255 was about 1.3 times larger than stock pump, plus I eliminated the "fuel pump box" because the walbro wouldn't fit. So the new pump is just zip tied to the factory hinge. Not sure if that's affecting it. My old pump was 40psi idle, 45psi with vacuum disconnected. I'm going to stop by harbor freight tomorrow to buy a FP gauge to see where i stand on the new pump.

To pull the volute, I'm guessing I remove the 6 bolts with 3 brackets... does it then just pop off?? Or do I have to dissassemble the whole blower? At idle, the amount of air coming out felt similar to a blow dryer on High. At WOT, it felt like a leaf blower on High. Maybe I just need to get a smaller pulley? Currently has 3.33, I'm thinking I may need 2.75. Going to put EGR block off in this weekend to make sure that's not my problem.

How many psi do people at sea level generally see with stock pulleys and V1 Strim? I was guessing I would be around 5psi with IC and all the plumbing.

 

Ok, just did a fuel pressure test- key on prime 38psi and holding. Start up and idle- 40psi and holding, WOT 47psi and holding. So I'm higher there, and believe that may be my issue.

 

The fuel pump bucket is designed to keep the pump submerged for feeding/cooling purposes. Shouldn't hinder you but it's a good idea to keep the tank filled up without the bucket.

Yeah, if you remove those bolts/clamps the volute should lift straight up/off.

I think I was seeing 7 psi average from a 2.95/6.66 combo with the heads/cam/stock bottom end LT1 and an S trim. Been a while since I ran that combo though. I assume you're running the 6.66" Vortech crank pulley?

 

Right now it has 6" crank pulley and 3.33" blower pulley. I don't think its enough to push pressure at this altitude, but I dunno. I ordered a 2.75", should be here this week.

Just blocked off the EGR and reset the PCM to see if my rich condition NA goes away.

 

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...d%20Calculator

No wonder you weren't seeing any boost. Hopefully the extra ~10k rpm the impeller will be turning will net you some positive pressure.

 

47 psi is in the normal range. It isn't causing the rich condition on it's own....

 

Yes the pulleys aren't ideal, but I figured I should at least see like 3-4psi.

Put in the EGR blockoff/reset PCM and Wideband is reading correctly now. Going to put blower back in this weekend and see what happens.

 

What size fuel injectors are in the car right now? I'd imagine you put in larger injectors for the S/C....if thats the case and you are putting in a stock tune right there would be the rich problem.

 

Car still has stock injectors. I'm ordering the 42lb ford greentops next paycheck and switching to 2bar speed density tune. Car started runing rich again dammit. Maybe the stock injectors are tired at 114k miles. Only problem is the car was running **** until I put the blower setup on. When it didn't work correctly, I put everything back to the way it was except the stock fuel pump and the K&N is bolted right to the MAF now. 11.0-11.5AFR at WOT and 17MPG with 75% highway miles and easy on the throttle.

 

Ok, I think I figured it out. I extended the intake plumbing and now the car is running like it should. I think having the filter bolted straight to the MAF was making funny reading for the PCM. I've always seen Mustangs setup the intake like that, but this car didn't like it. Now to solve my boost issue...

 

With the filter being that close to the maf the oil could have been giving it issues.