did the shoebox opti tests, now what?
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Re: did the shoebox opti tests, now what?
Shoebox's procedure is right out of the factory service manual. The 96 manual (same as 97) logic diagram for the ICM/coil system (Vol 2, Part 1, page 6E-836 to 839, STEP 5 indicates:
1 - Turn the ignition off
2 - Disconnect the ICM connector (are you possibly leaving it connected?)
3 - Turn the ignition on.
4 - Using a DVM, measure the voltage at the harness terminals "A" 10.67 and "D" 0.00 to ground.
Do both terminals measure less than the specified value (Value - 10.0 V)?
If not (you only have a problem on "D"), Go to STEP 6.
STEP 6 - Is there only one terminal below the specified value? If YES, go to step 23
STEP 23
1- Inspect the circuit that was less than 10.0 volts for an open or for a grounded circuit.
Looked I don't see anything that looks out of place
2 - If circuit is open or grounded, repair it.
Was an open or grounded circuit found? If NO go to STEP 24.
STEP 24 - Replace the ignition coil
Testing the coil with the volt meter i get a reading of 8.47 on all terminals, by shoebox that is a good reading
If you are sure you have done all the tests correctly, go to STEP 24. Not sure what other choice you have.But you have to be sure you followed the instructions and measured correctly.
1 - Turn the ignition off
2 - Disconnect the ICM connector (are you possibly leaving it connected?)
3 - Turn the ignition on.
4 - Using a DVM, measure the voltage at the harness terminals "A" 10.67 and "D" 0.00 to ground.
Do both terminals measure less than the specified value (Value - 10.0 V)?
If not (you only have a problem on "D"), Go to STEP 6.
STEP 6 - Is there only one terminal below the specified value? If YES, go to step 23
STEP 23
1- Inspect the circuit that was less than 10.0 volts for an open or for a grounded circuit.
Looked I don't see anything that looks out of place
2 - If circuit is open or grounded, repair it.
Was an open or grounded circuit found? If NO go to STEP 24.
STEP 24 - Replace the ignition coil
Testing the coil with the volt meter i get a reading of 8.47 on all terminals, by shoebox that is a good reading
If you are sure you have done all the tests correctly, go to STEP 24. Not sure what other choice you have.But you have to be sure you followed the instructions and measured correctly.
Is it possibly the PCM???
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Re: did the shoebox opti tests, now what?
I set my volt meter to check continuity and put one end one the green wire of the ICM and the other on the green of the coil wire and the volt meter gave the a sound showing continuity. I did the same on the pink wire on the ICM and coil .
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Re: did the shoebox opti tests, now what?
I assume your "volt meter" is actually a muti-meter, and the 8.47 reading is Kohms, or 8,470 ohms.
On the 97, are the coil connector and the ICM connector on separate branches of the harness, like shown in Shoebox's 1995 harness photo:
http://shbox.com/1/harness7.jpg
In effect, the dark green wire goes up one branch of the harness, curves around, and comes out the other branch. The wiring diagram does not show any splices or other things that could be faulty. You did get two different readings on the harness. In post #1 you indicated " "D" I was around 4-5 volts.". In post # 10 you indicated "green - D No volts". Try Gary's suggestion and (both harness connectors unplugged) measure the ohms between the two ends of the dark green wire. A "continuity check" can show good with a single strand of wire connected. But the wire may be frayed or making intermittent contact. Wiggle the harness while measuring the resistance.
On the 97, are the coil connector and the ICM connector on separate branches of the harness, like shown in Shoebox's 1995 harness photo:
http://shbox.com/1/harness7.jpg
In effect, the dark green wire goes up one branch of the harness, curves around, and comes out the other branch. The wiring diagram does not show any splices or other things that could be faulty. You did get two different readings on the harness. In post #1 you indicated " "D" I was around 4-5 volts.". In post # 10 you indicated "green - D No volts". Try Gary's suggestion and (both harness connectors unplugged) measure the ohms between the two ends of the dark green wire. A "continuity check" can show good with a single strand of wire connected. But the wire may be frayed or making intermittent contact. Wiggle the harness while measuring the resistance.
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Re: did the shoebox opti tests, now what?
OK
On the pink coil wire I get continuity from The pink coil wire to A (pink ICM) and also to (C black ICM)
On the green coil wire I get continuity to D (green ICM) no continuity to C (black ICM)
Does that sound right?
On the pink coil wire I get continuity from The pink coil wire to A (pink ICM) and also to (C black ICM)
On the green coil wire I get continuity to D (green ICM) no continuity to C (black ICM)
Does that sound right?
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Posts: 8
Re: did the shoebox opti tests, now what?
I assume your "volt meter" is actually a muti-meter, and the 8.47 reading is Kohms, or 8,470 ohms.
On the 97, are the coil connector and the ICM connector on separate branches of the harness, like shown in Shoebox's 1995 harness photo:
http://shbox.com/1/harness7.jpg
In effect, the dark green wire goes up one branch of the harness, curves around, and comes out the other branch. The wiring diagram does not show any splices or other things that could be faulty. You did get two different readings on the harness. In post #1 you indicated " "D" I was around 4-5 volts.". In post # 10 you indicated "green - D No volts". Try Gary's suggestion and (both harness connectors unplugged) measure the ohms between the two ends of the dark green wire. A "continuity check" can show good with a single strand of wire connected. But the wire may be frayed or making intermittent contact. Wiggle the harness while measuring the resistance.
On the 97, are the coil connector and the ICM connector on separate branches of the harness, like shown in Shoebox's 1995 harness photo:
http://shbox.com/1/harness7.jpg
In effect, the dark green wire goes up one branch of the harness, curves around, and comes out the other branch. The wiring diagram does not show any splices or other things that could be faulty. You did get two different readings on the harness. In post #1 you indicated " "D" I was around 4-5 volts.". In post # 10 you indicated "green - D No volts". Try Gary's suggestion and (both harness connectors unplugged) measure the ohms between the two ends of the dark green wire. A "continuity check" can show good with a single strand of wire connected. But the wire may be frayed or making intermittent contact. Wiggle the harness while measuring the resistance.
If I hook up the multi-meter the same way I check the coil to check the ohms, and I have the dial set to 200 (the lowest setting) I get a reading of 00.4. does that make sense?
The green wire does loop right from the coil connector to the ICM connector solid no wear good connection as far as I can tell.
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Re: did the shoebox opti tests, now what?
when you check continuity on your meter it should be on the lowest range like 200 then touch the probes together, the reading you get should be the same or very close as the reading on the wires you are checking, no more than .1 - .4 ohm
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Re: did the shoebox opti tests, now what?
This is important and why I asked exactly how you did it. Did you unplug the connectors and measure from the pins of the connectors, not the wires? you may have done it like that but we need to make sure you are testing the pins as well. Open circuits happen most often at the terminal connections, not usually in the wires themselves.
Also make sure to do the "wiggle" test as Fred explained.
The reason we are stressing this is because the voltage reading you obtained point to an open connection somewhere.
Also make sure to do the "wiggle" test as Fred explained.
The reason we are stressing this is because the voltage reading you obtained point to an open connection somewhere.
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Posts: 284
From: Windsor
Re: did the shoebox opti tests, now what?
I think I have some light at the end of this tunnel. I hooked up a sort of jumper wires to the coil directly and I'm getting over 10 volts from each terminal. So yes they're seems to be a problem in the connector that goes into the coil. I need to find some new terminals to put into there. I guess it's not making good contact.
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