I install an Opti and want to fire it up before i put it all back together.
what is the bare minimum i need to reinstall to make the engine run?

THANKS anyone!

 

You'll need to re-install the coil wire, and the coil and ICM if they aren't installed. You'll also want to install the throttle body. You could leave the elbow and MAF off as long as the MAF is not plugged in. You can leave the water pump off, and all of the cooling system stuff unhooked, but you don't want to let it run a long time.

I started my car without hooking everything back up after replacing my opti, but it's been so long ago I can't really remember everything that I had removed, or exactly what I put back on before starting the car. I know I fired it up before installing the water pump.

What kind of opti is that? Petris?

 

its a GM with new cap & rotor, wish i would have saved my old original factory one when i had the water pump changed it was working when removed.

IF I ONLY KNEW THEN WHAT I KNOW NOW!

 

Cap & Rotor from AIP Electronics, heard there Optical is equal or better than the mitsubishi.

 

AIP = All Ignition Products. They had to change their name from many years ago, because their Opti was so bad. Maybe the cap/rotor is OK.

If you only bought a cap and rotor, the optical cam position module is not included. That is part of the "base".

 

Nice man,when I did mine I pretty much did the same thing the other member said,my throttle was on I hooked the spark plug wires n the ignition coil and Icm. I quickly turned on the key and as soon as I heard it fire up,I switched it off fast,knowing I put the opti in the correct key position and that it worked. Good luck chevykid I hope all is good.

 

I just replaced mine a few weeks ago and just got it back running this weekend. I started it up with no water pump and no serpentine belt

Ran it maybe 45 seconds for the test

 

i cranked it over and no fire
when i took it apart the cap and rotor didn't look too bad. there was a little oil inside on the edge but nothing that would stop the optics. i mean some of these others that i have seen that look like it was any wonder they even ran, and mine look pretty clean. but it wouldn't start when it was damp out and after days of hot weather it would start but had no power and if you gunned the gas out of gear it would pop.

this wouldn't be an ICM problem would it?

 

On a factory Opti, the optical module and shutter wheel are under a shield, behind the rotor. Oil coming in from the timing cover Opti seal will get on the shutter wheel and disable the pulses. There shouldn’t be any oil in there.

Have you checked it for codes? There are codes for the ICM and Opti that can set when the engine is cranking, but they don’t turn the SES light on.

Are you sure you reconnected everything - the Opti, the ICM, the coil?

Did you check for codes BEFORE replacing the Opti? Not starting in damp weather is sometimes the result of corroded plug wire terminals, rotten wire boots, corroded Opti harness connector, etc. Did you inspect the harness connector and the ends of the plug wires and coil wire? Is the locking clip on the harness connector still there?

 

there was some oil but not much it didn't get on the wheel, i changed the seal.

No, i just found out about the scanning software on here and am working on the cable.

i connected more than i need, also replace the factory coil with a delco, one thing i notice was the ICM had Singapore on the heat sink. was that replaced?

didn't check codes before rebuiding the opti. replaced the wire harness to opti as the clip was gone. all the plug wires & coil wire are in good shape.

 

You can also pull codes with an OBD-1 scan tool. If the scanner doesn't have a 12-pin --> 16-pin adapter for the cable, you can jumper the connectors.

http://shbox.com/1/xraycable.jpg

 

i have a hypertech with a nice cord with a db15 plug on it also a usb ftdi & cp2102 i programmed for 8192 baud.
i just need to find the time to trace out the pins and solder it up.

 

I usually plug it up and run a ground wire to the distributor (not sure if that's necessary but it makes me feel better) turn the key on and spin the shaft to check for spark and injector pulse and before I even bolt it on. This same problem has happened too many times to me before.

 

On the ICM, it has Singapore on the heat sink. Is that original or been replaced, and if so, is this a good one?

Thanks!

 

I have no idea.