right sorry, the tool that uses the threads to remove the balencer pulled through the threads on the balencer,when using the claw type puller it came off without a problem. usuing a threaded puller would be a waste of time at this point, sorry for the confusion. if this dam hail stops coming down im gonna go try it one last time today.. if it still wont come off i guess im pulling the engine..i cant think of anything else.

 

have you tried the torch yet? If not I would def try that before pulling the GD motor!


On a side note, are you saying the threads that your puller attached to are stripped?

 

Not sure if I'm reading this correctly...but you cannot use a bolt threaded into your crank....it has to be a smaller diameter and longer than your crankshaft bolt....it will slide into the end of your crank, not thread in...and be sure it goes all the way to the back, bottomed out before you go to cranking on it....the hub will come on off.....I would use heat as a last resort.

 

Ok, I've read of the right way to do it and apparently I haven't done it the right way. Balancer comes off after you take out the three bolts, not real hard there. Loosen the crank bolt but don't take it out. I used a puller and ran bolts through the puller and through the three holes in the hub using nuts on the back side. I then just put the puller on the crank bolt and tightened the puller as it pushed against the bolt head thus pulling the hub off the crank. You will have to back the crank bolt out twice to get enough travel to get the hub off, but that's all. If you can't get enough travel you can tap it off with a hammer at the very end, just have to make sure you alternate sides so it wiggles off the end of the crank.

 

alright guys i finally got this ****er off after almost 3 days of trying. thanks for anyone who offered advice.

 

Unfortunately, as you back the center bolt out of the crank, and continue to apply force, you run the risk of damaging the threads in the crank snout. That's why people generally recommend that you put a 3/8" socket extension in the crank snout hole, and push against that.