ive got a puller on it, the balencer came off with no problem, now this sucker wont seem to budge. ive tapped it with a hammer all around and still it dosent seem to move. should i just crank the **** outta the puller and possibly break it, or is there any way of doing a cam without removing it, is it possible to get the front cover out enough to clear the gears and let it pivot around the crank?

 

I had the same problem a couple of years ago....look at the last few posts in my thread:

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...&highlight=HUB

 

Let's assume you removed the center bolt.... . What is the center of your puller pushing against? Are you sure the point is smaller than the hole in the hub?

 

alright that was really helpful, thanks guys im gonna run out and get a bolt right now, ill keep informed on if it worked or not.

 

alright well i just bent a grade 8 bolt like a pretzel. wtf. i used a 5/16th too. well i went and got a 7/16 so ill try that tomarow ( its getting dark out) and hopefully itll work. if not, is there anything i can do besides pull the engine and take the crank out? thats gonna suck...

 

You did remove the center bolt, right? The 5/16 bolt is suppose to sit in the hole (where the center bolt went) in the snout of the crank, but it doesn't touch any threads, it's only purpose is to give the puller something to push against.

I can't imagine that your hub is stuck on there bad enough to require pulling the crank out. After all, it's just a press fit. Unless someone did something stupid like weld it on or something

 

I had a problem like that from when i pressed the hub on too deep. I had to ask my Snap-On dealer for help and I used his balancer puller. The center threaded rod has a point on it so it sits inside the snout. Came off pretty easy after that. I believe it was like 60 for the puller. I was bending a couple grade 8 bolts as well as destroying the heads. Hope you get it off.

 

you have to make sure the bolt or whatever you are using to push against is all the way back in the crank hole....if the bolt has a head or lip on it, you could very well be pushing against the pulley itself....you should stick a pencil or something narrow down in the crank hole to get an idea of how long of a bolt you will need ( I didn't say push against a pencil)...I am thinking over 3 inches....

 

Is it possible in these situations to put a torch on the hub for a bit while somebody cranks the puller? You only really have one shot on this, before the crank snout heats up with the hub. (you would then have to wait till it cooled again.)

The torch has saved me grief before on hard pressed items.

 

yes, i have removed the center bolt. when i used a 5/16th bolt it bent like a pretzel. i have a 7/16th bolt of the same legnth which is much stronger, it threads into the crank like the original bolt did, can i assume that this will not work and i must use a 5/16?? this problem is really being a pain so any quick responses would be great, thanks guys

 

If you warm the crank hub, Torch, it will expand at a much faster rate then the crank shaft. The crank has a lot more mass then the hub.

Of course the proper tools also makes things much, much, much easier.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4&autoview=sku

 

Get a couple lengths of 7/16 bolts - use one barely longer than the stock bolt - pull it as far as you can with that bolt - step up to a longer bolt and keep pulling.

If the 5/16 wont work you want to be sure you are pushing against as many of the threads as possible. Really you need to have a bolt as deed as it will go in the crank.

 

nah that "right tool" i tried already. all it did was rip the bolts through the holes in my balencer. ive bent several bolts already so i got a nice heavy duty puller made by chysler. wel see how that goes tomarow.

 

May be just a type-o, but you said you already had the Balancer off and were trying to remove the hub?

 

he means the dampener is off and now only the hub remains to be taken off of the crank snout.