Anyone know how to keep this code from recurring? It's the only code my 383 LT1 is tripping, but as soon as I clear it, it pops right back up again. I've fiddled with the plugs on the MAF and ensured everything is plugged in. Maybe the MAF doesn't like the loping idle.

Do I need to buy a new MAF? Or maybe a tuner can eliminate this with programming.

Thanks

 

Key on/engine off check for 12V between the pink wire and the white/black wire in the harness connector. If you have 12V and there are no bent pins in the connector, most likely its a deceased MAF sensor. In that case, borrow one that you know is good and see if the code goes away.

The code sets when the PCM detects little or no activity from the sensor, basically a static reading, when it knows air flow is varying.

PS: Why not add your current car to the "signature" so we know what year it is.

 

Had the same code awhile back, the pink wire was broken and kept on blowing the 20 amp fuse the maf sensor circuit is on.

 

That's why I asked for the year of his car.... common problem on the 97's, not as common on other years.

 

yep another instance where a sig would be helpful!

 

with year of car

 

Thanks guys. Was not getting a signal from the pink wire. The car is indeed a '97, and the 20 amp "Engine Sensor" fuse in the under-hood fuse block was indeed blown. I replaced the fuse and now I get a signal in the pink wire. Haven't had a chance to check or clear codes yet.

Don't see any wire damage. What more is there to the fix other than replacing the fuse?

 

You wouldn't get a "signal" from the pink wire. You get a 12V power supply.

The fuse supplies power to several different devices. In the 97 that includes the O2 sensors, auto trans controls and brake switch according to the Owner's Manual. IF the fuse blows again, you will have to look for a problem on all of those devices. But as noted, the pink wire seems to break in the wiring harness on the 97'. Usually, it just produces an open circuit, and does not blow the fuse.

 

Hmm I might need to check the fuses in my 97 I've had that maf code apppear every often after getting a new used maf.. but my maf works fine.

 

I just remembered when mine kept blowing I had just put on headers and it was a bad o2 blowing the fuse not a broken wire (which is common on 97's), just another thing to look at if it does blow again.

 

I got a similar problem. I got the p0100 code as well as codes for both o2's saying "slow response". I replaced my MAF with a AC-DELCO reman unit. Cleared the codes and after a while of driving I got the codes for the O2's again but not the MAF (yet). I found this thread and tried to check to see if I had 12v between the pink wire and the white/black wire in the harness connector to rule out the MAF connection.

Here is the thing, I don't really know how to correctly check that. I took my meter and checked the pink wire by putting the red terminal of my meter on the wire and the black terminal on a grounded bolt and got 11.7v. I then put the red terminal on the pink wire and the black terminal on the white/black wire and got the same reading. Which is the right way to check it? Thanks

 

You need to measure the voltage between the pink wire in the harness connector and the black/white wire in the harness connector. That verifies that you have good pink wire and a good black/white wire. Going to the chassis for a ground bypassed the black/white wire continuity check.

But the second method was correct.

 

Thanks, so does the 11.7v I got between the two wires fall with in the normal range for operation? Or does it have to be no less than 12v? Thanks again.

 

Was the engine running? If not, that is your battery voltage, and is OK. With the engine running I'd expect to see more than 12V, but even at 11.7V the MAF sensor should work OK.