LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Canton oil pan and dip stick tube???

Old May 27, 2007 | 07:53 PM
  #1  
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Canton oil pan and dip stick tube???

What's the trick to getting the dip stick tube to go in all the with a Canton oil pan? Anybody else have any issues? Thanks in advance!
Old May 27, 2007 | 08:25 PM
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Years ago I ran into this problem.

I cut my dipstick tube shorter to fit in.

Then I put my dipstick in and the next time I checked my oil a chunk of my disptick was gone.

So I have one broken dipstick in place all the time and a good dipstick I put in when I need to see the level.
Old May 27, 2007 | 11:38 PM
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canton

me and my friend just had this same problem last weekend and the only thing we could do was cut it
Old May 27, 2007 | 11:58 PM
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I just fixed this issue today, with a Canton 242-t. When I test fit the pan, I could see that the crank scraper welded in the pan blocks part of the dipstick passage. I just ground that part of the scraper out, about 3/8 inch wide. Then disassembled pan and cleaned it real well to get all the metal dust out.

If you have the Canton bolt-on pickup you should check the clearance to the pan, too. Mine was touching with no gasket. Couple taps put it a 1/8 inch.
Old May 28, 2007 | 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by JP95ZM6
I just fixed this issue today, with a Canton 242-t. When I test fit the pan, I could see that the crank scraper welded in the pan blocks part of the dipstick passage. I just ground that part of the scraper out, about 3/8 inch wide. Then disassembled pan and cleaned it real well to get all the metal dust out.
That's exactly what I had to do with mine, plus grind out the scraper to clear the rods on the stoker crank. The tube was still hitting on the 4 bolt main bearing cap, but a slight bend on the tube took care of that.
Old May 28, 2007 | 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by cehan
That's exactly what I had to do with mine, plus grind out the scraper to clear the rods on the stoker crank. The tube was still hitting on the 4 bolt main bearing cap, but a slight bend on the tube took care of that.
I wouldn't grind on the pan, all ya gotta do is where it is touching is tap it with the round end of a small ball peen hammer until it clears. But to each his own.

I was gonna clearance mine up near the block where the little "V" is made in the pan for the dipstick, that is where mine hit going in, but I was afraid of it cracking there later..I just cut the tube off, put some sillycone on it and put er in.


David
Old May 28, 2007 | 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
I was gonna clearance mine up near the block where the little "V" is made in the pan for the dipstick, that is where mine hit going in, but I was afraid of it cracking there later..I just cut the tube off, put some sillycone on it and put er in.

David
Thanks for all of the replys! Unfortunately, I bought a project car and the engine is already in the car and running (or was running - I'm getting ready for the turbo kit.). The engine also has splayed 4-bolt main caps which I understand adds to the problem.

It looks like the tube is hitting the "V" of the pan, but the dip stick itself appears not to go beyond this point either. I Don't have a problem with cutting the tube, but what dipstick works? I really don't want to pull the pan at this point, but...
Old May 28, 2007 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 95Z28ConvtM6
Thanks for all of the replys! Unfortunately, I bought a project car and the engine is already in the car and running (or was running - I'm getting ready for the turbo kit.). The engine also has splayed 4-bolt main caps which I understand adds to the problem.

It looks like the tube is hitting the "V" of the pan, but the dip stick itself appears not to go beyond this point either. I Don't have a problem with cutting the tube, but what dipstick works? I really don't want to pull the pan at this point, but...
Stock dipstick and tube works, 6 quarts in the pan, one in the filter.

I use the "add" mark as my full mark

David
Old May 28, 2007 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
Stock dipstick and tube works, 6 quarts in the pan, one in the filter.

I use the "add" mark as my full mark

David
So you cut the tube, but not the dipstick?
Old May 28, 2007 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 95Z28ConvtM6
So you cut the tube, but not the dipstick?

Yes, tube only. Why would you cut the dipstick itself?


David
Old May 28, 2007 | 10:04 AM
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Becareful because the disptick can get pulled into the rotating assembly and chewed up.
Old May 28, 2007 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
Yes, tube only. Why would you cut the dipstick itself?


David
Just confirming - the dipstick wouldn't provide any benefit if it was cut.

However, it seems like the dipstick is stopping at about the same place without the tube in the picture, but I was just eyeballing it. I'll take some measurements today. Thanks!
Old May 28, 2007 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by CANTONRACER
Becareful because the disptick can get pulled into the rotating assembly and chewed up.
It has the stock stroke, so hopefully there won't be any issues using the stock dipstick and tube. The tube has a stop on it where it contacts the block regardless of how much I cut off below the stop, so it should provide the same length in the engine as the original set-up. Well, it makes sense to me anyway
Old May 28, 2007 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
I wouldn't grind on the pan, all ya gotta do is where it is touching is tap it with the round end of a small ball peen hammer until it clears. But to each his own.
David
After grinding the notches in the scraper for the rods to clear, one more notch for the dip stick tube was no big deal.

Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
Stock dipstick and tube works, 6 quarts in the pan, one in the filter.

I use the "add" mark as my full mark

David
I was confused about how much oil to put in the pan so I called the Tech Line at Canton; they told me the pan makes it a 6 qt. system. Fill the filter then put the rest of the 6 qts. in the pan
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