Can the Street Twin be rebuilt?
Can the Street Twin be rebuilt?
I am getting ready to install my new 15psi 355 and was wondering if the Street Twin is rebuildable or what do I have to buy to make it like new again. The clutch has about 60,000 miles on it and showing no signs of slipping, but since I will have the car apart I would feel better with a new or rebuilt clutch in it. The clutch has worked perfectly since new except for a leaking slave cylinder POS. I switched back to the stock sleave and it has worked fine ever since. Does the new kits come with the sleave for the slave cylinder or do they automaticly come with mcleud's adjustable master cylinder?
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1998
Posts: 2,407
From: Windsor, Canada: Home of the FASTEST LT1 & LS1 6 spds :)
yes call les at mcleod, and send it to him, they will resurface both flywheels and put new stuff onto your clutch plates 
their customer service is great!

their customer service is great!
Les at Mcleod is a good guy to work with. They redid mine after a full season of bracket racing (10 passes per week) . I did have to shave some off of my throw out arm pivot point after the rebuild to eliminate some interferrence problems however.
Did I read that correctly? 60K on a ST? You do a lot of track time or just day to day driving on that? Most guys it seems get only 3 yrs or so before time for another rebuild but they of course beat the snot out of it.
yes 60000 miles. That includes about two dozen eighth mile runs and the rest are street miles. It was more then I needed at the time when i got it but now it is just perfect. I would recomend it to anyone.
Originally posted by taner
200.00 for the mcleod slave i believe. funny thing i had to clearance my fork pivot arm as well. would've been nice to know ahead of time!
200.00 for the mcleod slave i believe. funny thing i had to clearance my fork pivot arm as well. would've been nice to know ahead of time!
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1998
Posts: 2,407
From: Windsor, Canada: Home of the FASTEST LT1 & LS1 6 spds :)
hmmm no pics but the idea of it is on the fore/ front side of the pivot fork it was contacting the studs on the pressure plate. that is why grinding was required. as soon as i turned the key you could hear the fork hitting something, the something turned out to be the studs coming thru on the pressure plate
I had exactly the same problem as Tanner. The fork hit the PP studs at full travel. I took about .09" off of my pivot point and every thing was hunky dory. I figure I'll just make up a .09" spacer when I need to get a new clutch (probably next year). Although, Mcleod is still working on the Blowproof Bellhousing for the LT1. Their arrangement should set us LT1 guys up for an Iron disk 3 finger slipper arrangement in the future. That should save us some $$$ in drive train components from the trans on back.
Wishing I had that stuff right now!
Steve
Wishing I had that stuff right now!
Steve
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