im shooting for about 450 to 500 rwhp, and just wondering on a good starting point for the short block, i know im going to need to go 383, but at that kind of power, do i need forged internals? and in the end is it going to be cheaper for me to just buy a short block instead of build my original one? whats a good rotating kit to get for about this power level?

and what about the bare bones street strip 383 here?
http://www.revolutionaryperformance....t%20blocks.htm

 

I dont think id consider, an eagle cast crank, a good start to a "stout" bottom end. Im not a big eagle fan myself, but if you want a "stout" bottom end if atleast look into all forged parts. Plus at 500whp thats rouhgly 540fwhp, thats if your running a 10bolt and an auto. Id definently look into all forged bottom end parts. Also, any plans such as nitrous or boost later on?

 

You don't need a 383, but it's a good idea. The hp is going to come from a good head/cam/intake and exhaust combo, not the extra 28ci over a 355. I think the Eagle cast crank is a step down from a stocker. How many miles on the parts you have now? Are they in good shape? Maybe you should consider re-using the stock crank and rods?

Rich

 

500rwHP is about 600 HP at the flywheel through an A4, assuming a 16% loss. It could be higher than that through a loose/non-locking converter.

 

Oh, I see I was compareing stock hp to stock whp. Completely forgot about the percentage.

 

A 355 can make your goals, more cubes will tame it down some and provide better manners. IMO the shortblock you listed need more compression, better rotating assembly, and better pistons. As others stated the stock crank is better than the crank you listed.
A proven combo is( stock crank, Scat 6" rods, mahle powerpacks)

In my opinion the machinist is key to your engines longevity, a hack machinist using the highest quality parts = a ticking time bomb, whereas a great machinist with suitable parts can build a rock solid performer.

Or a stroker with parts comparable to what Karl Ellwien uses on his shortblocks.

Mahle Forged flat top Pistons for customers with large chamber heads or high compression race motors.

Mahle -16cc D-dish pistons for customers with small chamber (GM) heads.

Mahle file fit plasma moly rings

Callies/CompStar™ Forged H-beam Rods

Callies/CompStar™ 4340 Forged Crankshaft

ATI SFI approved Neutral Flexplate

ACL or Clevite H-series Main and Rod bearings

Callies billet 4-bolt splayed Main Caps @ 2/3/4

ARP main studs

Dura-Bond™ Cam Bearings

Brass freeze plugs

Mike

 

i know it needed more compression

im shooting to end with with somewhere around 11 or 11.5:1 compression

would my stock crank handle this kind of power?

the parts have about 160k on them, but oil pressure is good and the motor runs strong, so i know theres no spun bearings, but it would probably need turned

if i reuse my stock crank, should i get 5.7 or 6 inch rods?

i have a 6 speed am im about to upgrade to a 12 bolt rear, so you think i could hit my goals with building a 355?

 

Too many miles to re-use the stock parts.

Rich

 

so since my parts aren't able to be reused, i might as well go to a 383, so where should i get the rotating assy? or should i buy the parts separately?

 

If you're building a stout bottom end, the cost of going from 355 to 383 is minimal.
You will have to clearance for the rods and weld if you break into the jacket though.
(I just went ahead and half-filled mine once we hit water twice)

The advantage to the 383 is that it will compress the torque curve, allowing you
to use a more aggressive cam without having to rev to the moon.
It's also going to require more room to bring air/fuel in and push it back out.
Quality valvetrain components and proper head selection/porting are critical.

As others have mentioned, the Eagle cast crank is probably not the best choice.
I went with their forged crank setup, although I later found that the Callies crank wasn't a whole lot more expensive.

As for where to buy, you might want to check with the machine shop and
see what they can do for you. Keeping as much of the project in their hands
tends to lead to less frustration and finger-pointing later. I prefer to buy
the assembly as a kit, but as long as the person selecting the components
is competent, they should be able to find you parts that work together properly.

FWIW, I ordered my rotating assembly from Bauer Racing because Bret also designed my cam.
That worked out well since he knew enough about Lloyd's port work to get me the right combo.
Had I picked out my own stuff or gone to a shop that didn't bother to check the H/C first,
I may have ended up with PTV issues or otherwise been stuck with something less than optimal.

Weight everything and have it all checked for balance.

A good shop will tell you exactly what you need and build you a motor that
will last for years to come. Ask around your local clubs for references.
If people come back every year with broken stuff, I would tend to avoid that shop.