my friends LT1 ran a 13.5 at 108mph with just as&m headers, magnaflow muffler, and a ram air hood/airbox. It's a six speed car, bone stock suspension, on street tires. I wouldnt doubt that xxsaint69x can trap 115mph with some good driving, and those gears. Hell, I even trapped 105mph with intake, header, and exhaust my first time at the track. I'll get ya some numbers when I go back this weekend.

-Cam

 

some cars are just freaks from the factory.........due to lax quality controls, some cars are just stronger than others.

there was a guy down in my area with a TOTALLY stock (not even an intake) LT1 that was running low 13's at 105mph.




also........there are times when you THINK you bought a stock car....and it really isnt.


scenario :

guy buys car.....buys bolt-ons, heads, cam........decides to sell car......removes all mods to sell part by part and returns car to stock, but leaves the cam in because its too much work to remove. sells car to dealership, and does not tell them about the cam because mods lower value/reliability.

someone ends up buying a car they think is stock, but will unknowingly have 30 more hp than they should.

 

i got the times in my sig with the stock ss air box and paper filter and no rrs, or elect. water pump and stock throttle body

 

No times yet, maybe this weekend. ALL mods in the sig. , numbers on a mustang dyno. The best pull I made was 369rwhp and 345rwt. Stock lt4 heads.

By the way there were about 75 people there to witness the dyno including the two guys that started this web sight.

 

I agree there are a few cars just faster than others and some who drive better than others. My car runs 12.68@109.5 with only CAI, electric H20 pump, Flowmaster catback, plugs, wires & coil(MSD) and 4.10s (M6). My car is bone stock from the throttle body to hollow cat. I also have no big weight reduction. ONly weight reduction is back seats removed and sparetire removed. My camaro has full electric seat and windows.. etc. The weather was decent but mine runs consistent.

 

You know I really had my heart set on getting a XE 230/236 on 112 LSA but it seems like that cam doesn't do squat unless you got PP heads. Seeing Marcin's and a few others CC306 & stock heads cars trapping 114-5mph in the 1/4 makes me want it.

Does anyone out there have the XE 230/236 on stock heads dyno numbers? I'm trying to make the right decision here and the 306 is what I'm going for now.


XE 230/236 VS CC306On STOCK heads

Who will win?

 

this is some freaky ****

don't worry Scully, I'll get to the bottom of this...

 

If i eventually do heads, what cam would be the best, 224/230, 230/236, or 224/236 and still maintaining driveability. I was thinking 224/230 just because its not as big, I also don't wanna have to rev it to the moon.

 

If you plan on doing heads in the future I suggest doing what I'am. Pick a cam you think will suit your car/driving habits good for now, then when you get heads, get a cam ground to what the heads flow. Honestly, its gotta be the best way to do it. Pick a cam now that will work the BEST with stock heads, then swap it out with a cam that will work the BEST with PP heads when you get em. Nuff said.

 

Well, I'll vouche for CantonRacer's times and the fact that he does not "miss" mentioning some mods. If you visit his site you'll see that he lists EVERYTHING done to his car. He also races his car in full street trim, no skinnies, no seat removal, etc.....Watch him at the track and then meet up an hour later on the street and he'll run you with the SAME EXACT car, everytime.

And like him, I've never seen the magical times at any of our local tracks including the famous Norwalk Raceway Park on a normal non-event night. Some of the times listed on the web are absolutely amazing but are you really listing everything? 90% of the problems I see on this board are due to the "Monkey see, Monkey do" syndrome. If you contact any major cam supplier they will tell you that a proper combination of parts beats the biggest cam you can buy theory all day long. I believe this is why Frank's car runs as fast as it does. He's put together a great package and worked on getting the power to the ground. Let's not forget too that each dyno is different depending on the setup of the dyno and the type of dyno that your using. I would love to see a "too big for stock cam,stock tuning, stock head" LT1 run the MPH's that are listed here. But, here in the land of the real world tracks like Dragway 42, Quaker City and Norwalk we actually have to do a little bit more work to get to that number????


Clueless in Ohio

 

See Sig... Times were before Trans with 3200 Stall.

 

well my friend used to have a 230/236 in his 96 trans am..his heads arent STOCK stock (he has 3 angle valve job) but i would still beat him pretty good up top..he has exactly same mods as me...well his engine is pretty much brand new and mine has 96k on it. Needless to say he is puttin a CC306 in his car tomorrow

It should be interesting

 

I used to have the CC306 - I pulled it out and installed a 230/236. @ 5800rpm, I have 10 more rwhp than I previously did w/ the 306 .

Now if only I can get the damn thing to rev all the way to 7k!


Ah well.. solid roller on order

 

My car and I have lost 90#s since i ran 11.42 116.56 with stock heads. Now with that said I agree that NA I need good weather to run really fast. But i have no trouble running 11.60's or so in the heat of the summer anytime. When I ran 11.42 air was good -1800. I think I can run high 11.20's now in the same air. Frank95z

 

xxsaint69x, i know your car is fast but i want to be sure of this dump question : if you race a M6 car with excatly the same mods as you have CC306, bolton's...etc but in addition it has properly ported heads, who will be faster then you or him? from a roll on street and say from dead stop providing that both of you got killer traction? thanks.