Man! I cant thank you enough for the deal you gave me on this motor. Also, I will get the smaller blower pulley on there so I can get more boost and will get it dyno tuned this year. I am gonna also gonna get an electric cutout for my borla later this summer. I think the car will become the complete beast after that. Its quick right now but it aint scaring me yet, I want it to make me fear the car and love it at the same time

Thanks,
Claude

 

Pulling out the bottom is easier. It does not sound easier but it is. Unless you are at a road-race course or something usually you have a pretty well controlled environment and usually a hoist. With that said, and a hoist, removing the engine from the bottom is far easier than out the top. The top-out method was designed by road racers that had to be able to pull the engine with what they had. I.E. the TPIS "Happy Hooker" setup. Trust me on this, in their shop, they pull them from the bottom as they were designed to be pulled.

 

Well i just pulled the motor today out the bottom with the help of my dad and it took approx. 3.5 hrs-4 hrs. taking our time it took us about 45 min to drop it down just because we were worried we would miss something and break it. I would never go out the top. Now i can't wait to put in the 355 with a 230/236 and advanced induction heads.

 

Congrats on the engine removal

Taking it out of the bottom may appear daunting at first, but it really is easier by a long shot than out the top.

 

yes it seems rather scary at first. I just wish i would of been smart enough to get a LS1 brake conversion and lowering springs now is the perfect time to do so

 

LMAO!! It appears you have the "mod my car" crack habit in full swing. its' only downhill from here.

 

95 Silver TA,

Nice pics. Who did your engine and where are they located?

 

The rotating assembly was purchased at www.racenet.net, and was assembled by Burtonsville Machine in Laurel Md. (301)-490-3131

 

Alright, hate to bring an old post back up, but I need some more info.

WHat all things that Ken took out would not have to come off?

A/C Lines
Hood
ABS Unit


Is that it?

Hopefully i will be upgrading the shocks/springs/brakes while its out

 

ttt

 

The A/C compressor will have to be taken off with the lines hooked up. Let it hang, and fish it out of thwe way when lifting the body up. This is the way to go if you do not want to discharge and recharge the A/C. It is a little PITA though, but just be patient.

The ABS unit does not need to be unhooked. You do need to unbolt the master cyl to get access to the strut towr bolts. You do have to disconnect 2 brake lines going into the ABS unit, whihc are for the front brakes. (The front brake lines are attached to cradle which you are dropping out, hence needing to disconnect them and position them to drop out with the cradle.

The hood does not need to be removed if you are using floor jacks to lift the body up. If you have a hoist or lift, you can remove the hood and lift the body by the strut towers.

 

my a/c needs a recharge anyways as i discharged it during heads/cam install, do you recommend leaving it with the motor and disconnecting the lines or unbolting it from the motor?


approx. how high does the car need to be to clear the car? http://acaenterprises.com/camaropics...tandheight.JPG those be tall enough? they are on it right now on the front frame rails and the back tires are on some 12" ramps or so. However I think we cut them down to about 24".

To remove the master cylinder you just unbolt the 2 bolts going into the booster and move it to the side? or do you have to pull back first? wont the lines bend? And there are 4 bolts on each strut tower? the 2 on each side where teh strut tower brace would go, and then the 2 bolts on the pass side and the torx on the drivers side which require you to move the master cylinder? (what size torx are those?)

 

http://ken.lowrance.com/Projects/Hea...odyGoingUp.jpg

Look at this pic carefully. The cradle is sitting on some wood blocks. This is to be able to get a jack under the cradle so you can move it out from under the car. I use one jack on the scenter of the cradle, and another on the transmission, and roll the whooe assembly out.

Now the height the body that needs to lifted is the height of the top of the engine or more specifically to clear the throttlebody, after it is sitting on the wood blocks. you might have to remove the front air damn to slide the assembly out..


Just unbolt the 2 bolts holding the master cyl and pull out and over.. The lines will not bend. I can't remember the size of the torex bolts.

If you need to recharge the A/C, then I would leave the compressor bolted up and sidconnect the A/C lines then.

 

so the wiring harness goes out with the motor? where are the "ends" of that harness at? i assume the pcm?

 

unbolt the PCM, and fish 3 connectors out through the firewall...located under the pass kick panel. Disconnect 2 more connectors on the pass side engine compartment and basically leave the rest hooked up. The alternator wiring is not on the main harness and needs to be disconnected.. But yes, the harness comes out with the car..