1racerdude

Shouldn't be a problem.Thats in the 1.5HP per CID range no problem with 396 cubes and a set of heads (figured by the rule of thumb) that flow 300+CFM.

FASTFATBOY

[QUOTE=SStrokerAce]I like to think that 580hp is all it takes to do 500rwhp.....

That seems a might conservative to me....maybe with a six speed, 10 bolt, 3.42 gear, street tires and no driveline angle....but hey JMO.

David

PNYKILR

Being that I just hit 500rwhp on 28" slicks and a Currie 9" here you go.

398CID
12.5.1 compression
Callies Draygon slayer 3.875 crank
Oiller Billet 6" rods(not needed but if you have the money why not)
Ross .040 over custome pistons
Custom Solid roller by Joe Overton(Big Cam)
T&D Shaftmounts
AFR 210's ported by GTP, Flowed 310 at .700 lift
victor Jr EFI Intake
Acufab 2100cfm TB
Fast

First Started the car on the dyno and went at it from there. Third pull hit 500rwhp. Once this motor breaks in and we put more timming in it, hope to hit around 520rwhp or so.


Neal

FASTFATBOY

Was this on available pump gasoline?
just curious. And do you know you dynamic compression ratio?


David

Mindgame

Kinda the same thing right?

Just put one together for a little less than that. No head conversion costs and much less expensive hydraulic roller lifters... but we did spend the money where it counts.
The cam I used also had about .100 less lift than yours but then again, I don't see the point in lifting that high for a 23º head engine. I know the asphalt guys running 23º RR stuff aren't even running that much and I just haven't seen where it makes that much more hp.

IMO Larry, your car along with David's fall into category #1 with the big bucks. Last I read, Pnykillr's cam was in the 265+ range too so IMO he falls into that category too.

Hey, we're all out for something different.

-Mindgame

SStrokerAce

Yeah, thats what I figure.... 6000-6500 HP peak, and I like to make conservative estimates on things too. I'm guessing around 80-82 ft lbs per L at HP peak (SAE) 85-90 ft lbs per L at HP peak is up there with the best of them. This way you can compare and size motor and see how effiecent they are taking RPM and displacement out of the equation. That's my rule of thumb.

300cfm is all I need (more would be nice Mr Meaux ;-) ), i've done it with less cubes, less cam and less heads.

500rwhp and the TQ that goes with it is definately going to have a 12 bolt behind it and a A4 with a small stall. Remember this is not a race motor. I've seen 12-13% drivetrain loss as a estimate but I like to use 16-17% on combos like this so I don't think it's far off.

Bret

PNYKILR

Yea, this is hardley a street car anymore. I built it for track duty. Sure if I wanted to I could bolt my exhaust back on and drive it around, but I have other cars for that. 27ish @ .050 670 lift on a 108. I forget the exact spec's but that's close. I only run race gas in this thing. Pump gas shouldn't be a problem either as I live at 5,400 elevation. I was told I lose a compression point because of that. Not sure how true that is???? Plus with the FAST it makes it easy.

In this build up I think I'm alittle over 16K with the FAST($2,400). I spent alot on the topend. That's where the power is. I'm glad I put a Victor Jr Intake on it. Money well spent. I re-drilled the heads so now have the option to try other intakes. I might through a Super Victor on there after the summer to see how much more it gives me, but for now I'm happy with the power it made. I think at the most this combo is good for 530rwhp.

Neal

marshall93z

what about a 355? would it be ALOT harder, or just a little? i would have never imagined it would be in the 15-20k range!!

1racerdude

When you start buying intakes to go with the high dollar converted heads it mounts up quick. I have more in the top end than most people spend for their complete engine.The bottom wasn't cheap either.Started with a 4 bolt and 1k later I have a block that might take it.If I do this again I will use SB-2's and get Wilson to build an EFI intake---more heavy bucks.
I didn't short dollar anything to get by,that's whats expensive.The cam isn't in the 265* range. Oh Well, got to pay to play,and ya got to be in the game to play.

You can't win following somebody else...

SStrokerAce

Well even a sick 358 for the LS1tech series might run that high, but you are forced to use AFR 215RR's for that. That Ti valves and the ECU setup would be some of the really silly costs. $15-$20K would definately cover that. Going with the parts Mindgame used like a CFE intake isin't cheap, and I'm sure his heads are on par with the rest of it. A good street motor would probably run $15-12K if you were looking at 23deg standard port heads and a lot of HP.

Bret

irishz28

i had a feeling, the prices would be up high in the range you guys are talking about. when i first posted this thread i was just thinking of my car. beleve me, i probably could afford it, but i have to think about that im getting out after this deployment, im going back to school, gotta pay for an apartment, i want to buy a daily driver. i probably should play it safe, do some mild mods, and hang onto some of my hard earned cash, im gunna have this car for awhile, there is no need for me to rush. i allready have a good base to work with, i have pretty much every bolt on, the only thing that i have to do suspention wise is get a 12 bolt, i need to get a better clutch, lts, y pipe, new catback, and i want to pick up a new set of rims and tires. with all that done, im free to work on the engine. as for a goal right now, i think i would be happy breaking the 11s. i want the car to be driveable. i was thinking a comp cams 306, and either some after market heads or working over the stock heads. so what do you guys think? by the way, thanks for the support, it really does mean alot.

blue

If you already have your LT1 modded a lot and running good it would be a shame to change it. But I'm looking right now at the August 2004 issue of Chevy High Performance where they did an article called LS1 Triple Play where they tested three cams with three intakes. As far as I can tell they had stock bottom end, stock heads, and stock everything else except for the valvetrain where they had 1.75 roller rockers, lifters and springs.
And with the Comp Cam XER281HR 0.595/0.598 , 232/234, 112 separation, and the FAST intake they got

503/452 @ 6,400/5,000

Flywheel of course, but it makes me wish I had an LS1. Get one out of a junkyard for $2000, spend $1000 on cam and upgraded valvetrain and timing set, $1500 on some nice ported heads, $1500 on the FAST intake (it might be more like $1000, but just tack that $500 onto the other $500 covering miscellaneous), $300 on bigger fuel injectors, $200 on a tune, and $500 miscellaneous, and you've probably got a very driveable, 20+ mpg, 500+ rwhp engine for $7000. Just hope the bottom end could handle it.

EDIT: I forgot exhaust; $1000 --> ~$8000 total. And you might have to be kind of creative to get the LS1 into our engine bay. Remove the ac and its radiator then move the coolant radiator forward 3 inches, and also hopefully the engine mounts and the transmission would fit right up.

vette40th

Follow this set up this guy did. He used to run at Rockingham, now is going Big Block. His motor was very close to 500rwhp. And it idled very well.
http://phil.tobin.net/Hoover/top.html

SStrokerAce

I also think you could get some serious power on a stock bottom end. Still in a daily driver setup. The main part of this is the intake manifold because the stock intake just doesn't produce the TQ in the RPM range you run a stock car.

The LS1's have a nice intake and 300cfm heads. If you had a better intake on a LT1 then LS1 type numbers would be doable.

Bret

blue

Most posts dealing with the intake say that doing anything with it on the LT1 isn't really worthwhile. Is that only the case if you E: have :E a mildly modded car? At what point does it become worth changing the intake?