kind of off the wall question but how much oil pressure you got at cold idle?

 

i could not say an exact number since i have not tested it but it looks normal when looking at the guage. Just a touch higher when cold as expected. But it has not been cold here. Only yesterday when it was 50 deg in the morning. Why you ask?

Also I take back that the car was running normal after cold start up. It sounds like its missing right after start up. It takes about 20 or 30 sec for it to clear up. Almost sounds like my dads 04 duramax diesel

 

I poped off the intake pipe and just happend to look in the throttle body and it looks like there is gas coating every thing. I wiped my fingers around and sure enough there is gas coating every thing. Is this normal or what? if not what can cause that.

 

are you sure your valves are adjusted correctly? thats why i was asking about oil pressure. some people like to go 3/4 turn on the adjustment. if you have high oil pressure and that valve adjustment , the valves won't close all the way.

 

oh really. what i did was twist the pushrod till i felt friction. Then i tightened the rocker another 1/2 turn. I think, it has been a while. If that were the problem how would it run fine after warming up but bad when cold. I can hear a slight knock from the pushrods on both sides of the engine.

Also just to get an idea of how the engine runs while missing i pulled one of the spark plug wires and the engine had a little trouble starting but it ran smooth after that. makes me wonder if the engine is missfiring now and I cant tell. I put a timing light on the wires on the left side and there all firing but i cant get it on the right side without melting all the wires on my timing light. plus i was testing it when the car was idling fine. it is hard to test any thing when it only runs bad for 30sec.

I cleaned the MAF and it dident change any thing. but I took the car for a drive and it still does not feel like a 383 to me either.

 

What are you IAC counts at?

 

i have no idea. the scanner i used from checkers sucked *** so it dident tell me that. I returned it already. I did open the throttle a little bit with the screw on the side so that cant be the issue. when warm and when the car isent stumbling at warm start up it starts up nice and quick without an issue.

 

every one give up on me

 

i still think it sounds like a coolant temp sensor

 

i know it sounds like it but when i had the scanner on it was reading the correct temps. you can see on the numbers i posted on the first post. can a rich running engine misfire?

 

when it is in open loop it has missing and hesitation issues. when in close loop it has issues starting without the gas being hit some of the time. also when started it will hesitate only for a moment when hot. During hesitation it is running rich (can smell it). WTF

 

I tested TPS and IAT and there both good. I have not tested the coolent temp yet. Engien was to hot. I tested the MAF and It passed the B to A terminal test with 5 volts but it did not pass the B to C terminal test which is suppost to read 12 V but is really reading 11.5 V is this significant?

 

I think that may be the problem guys. I ran the car in sd mode with the MAF off this morning and the car did not miss. And then I pluged it in and started the car and it was missing bad. Also last night i checked the MAF 12V ref signal and it was at 12.13 when the engine was warm. so for some reason the signal is weaker when cold. When i get back from school im going to splice the wire with another 12v wire and see if that works.

 

Bad news for me. I spliced the wire to a 12V source and dident change any thing. and to add to the problem the car just started acting the same way in sd mode so I can scratch out the MAF. the AIR systems seems to be working correctly and is not contributing to the problem either since i unpluged the hose to make sure no back exhuast was getting in. Also the EGR valve is not causing any thing because its not stuck open. I can pull it open and hear the changes in the engine as the exhuast gas goes in. Im running out of things to check. Any other ideas. Im bout ready to by some new plug wires and see if that changes any thing. Dose this sound like a ignition problem or a tuning problem a vacume leak or what. and it cant be a fuel pressure problem since im running rich i assume. also i dont have fuel in the FPR vacume line. And a bunch of black stuff comes out the back of the tail pipe when i rev it while its running bad. No codes

Its not;
TPS, CTS, IAT, MAF, EGR, AIR

 

i would say get your hands on a cable and download data master. it will save a ton of guess work. my brain is fried trying to slove my stupid fuel issue with 4 plugs