All based on rumors, we know nothing yet, just throwing out there what I've heard.

 

Man, these threads are hilarious!! You LT1 guys saying LS1s are slow out of the hole or that a LT1 will pull a LS1 at low speeds really need a reality check. A LS1 is quicker at any RPM, any time, any speed...doesn't matter (talking stock vs. stock of course).

Race a LS1 with a competent driver behind the wheel from a dig and you won't be spewing this ridiculous BS anymore.

 

ive argued this for years.


where this BS came from i have no idea.

 

I couldn't agree more. This gets so old. I have no idea why so many people think the LT1 comes out of the hole harder or has more "low-end" torque? I've owned two LS1's (still have my '02) and also daily-drive an LT1 and let me tell you, although my LT1 is definitely quick, it does not feel any stronger (nor is it in reality) down low. And my LS1 would rape the living $hit out of it at any speed. But of course it would because it's making so much more horsepower at the rear wheels than my LT1 is. It's kinda hard to argue with a car that averages 50 more rwhp right out of the box than the other. Assuming the LS1/LT1 is healthy and have good drivers behind the wheel, the LS1 will OWN it in the full 1/4 stock for stock (you just can't argue the facts here).

I love them both and plan on making my LT1 an LS1 killer soon , but mod for mod, I also realize the LS1 is always going to be quicker/faster with better reliability/drivability at the same horsepower/torque levels...

Mike

 

So since it will always be 50 horsepower stronger then it would make sense to swap a LS1 into my '95, right? I'm not trying to talk trash but 50 horsepower is 50 horsepower and most die-hard drag racers would really want to go for that 50 horsepower difference. Plus I think it would be kick *** to pop the hood and confuse people. I just don't know how hard that swap would be. The cost would be quite a bit but then again I could sell the LT1 since it only has 67,xxx miles on it.

 

That's totally your call man...I personally would recommend you either build up your LT1 or sell the car (not just the engine) and go out and purchase a nice running LS1 (they're starting to be had for fairly cheap). Do you race a lot at the track or just want to have a quick car on the streets? How important is reliability/drivability to you (will it be your daily-driver)? But yeah, your average LT1 puts down between 240-250rwhp bone friggin stock on a dynojet. Your average completely bone stock LS1's put down anywhere from 290-310rwhp dependng upon year/transmission. For comparison, my '02 put down 300rwhp & 320rwtq 100% factory stock. So some dyno higher and some lower. Same goes for the LT1's. But yes, the average difference between the two when entirely bone stock is usually 50rwhp (give or take a little either way). I haven't had my LT1 dynoed yet with the CAI and cat-back, but my LS1 with an intake lid, cat-back, and longtube headers using highflow cats is putting down about 345rwhp right now with nothing else. To get an LT1 to that point you're going to have to open up the motor and put a nice-sized cam in it w/ some 1.6RR's. It's all relative though as you're just playing catch up if the LS1 keeps adding the mods too. Got to love that Gen III cylinder head design...

 

Let me start by answering a question that posed a few replys ago. Yes, reverse cooling does work in favor for the LT1 engine. Cooling the heads first allows for more compression and a more agressive timing curve.

As far as surprising someone, instead of swapping an LS1 into your 95, buy a newer model and swap the front ends. Much easier and cheaper in the long run.

 

Nothing against LT1's, but that is true. Even my buddy with a 6-speed '97 Z28 admits that. He's run 13.75 @ 98 mph, bone-stock (not that far off 13.02) but still, even out on the highway we've run, and my car pulls away from his so quick it's like it's standing still.

FWIW, I'm surprised this thread is still alive!?

 

Pete...7 tenths is a very big difference if both cars pulled the same 60's . And a 98 MPH trap w/a 13.7 means he got some pretty good sixties in .
I think any stock LT1 6 speed " In good running condition" with Sticky tires is good for a 13.7
One of my best friends ran a 13.7 in his stock " 6 speed" And I had another friend with a stock auto that hit 13's . both trapping 98MPH.

 

I really dont think you have a prayer to shave 1000 lbs! Your car would weigh less then a miata. No chance in hell.

 

7/10's is a big gap. Not to mention you trap about 9 mph higher. It's no surprise you walk him at highway speeds because you trap so much higher and make more torque at higher rpm's. I have seen a few LT1's hit 13's stock but most are low to mid 14's due to traction issues on stock tires. Same with LS1's where a few have hit high 12's but most are low to mid 13's on stock rubber. My personal best was a 13.5 in my auto and my buddy with a stock A4 95 Z28 had a best of 14.2 at the same track on the same night. We never ran against each other but we compared slips and had a few beers after.

This thread has gotten a bit off track. My advice to the guy who started this thread is get what you can afford first and foremost. If you can afford either then get a LS1 if you plan to stay stock or just do bolt-ons. If you plan to do an aggressive head/cam package then I would get a low mileage LT1 for the deeper sound and iron block. If you plan on a more mild/streetable head cam or cam only package then I would again go with the LS1. Just make sure it's an F-body and you'll be ok in my book

 

Like I said, its my goal to get rid of 1000 pounds. 500 pounds would be more realistic but I'm trying to be as optimistic as possible. That would be cool to be as "skinny" as a Miata though.

 

So after reading this whole thread, the real question might be...is it better to buy an LS1 F-Body for more then an LT1 F-Body and do bolt ons, or is it better to buy the LT1 and do some more "in-depth" mods? (H/C/I package from someone like Lloyd Elliot, etc)

This is the cross road I'm at, I really would like a low 12 second daily driver, do I buy the LS1 and buy bolt ons? Or...do I buy an LT1 for less and get a h/c/i package...which might even end up being cheaper then buying an LS1. Just some food for thought/conversation..

 

I looked in auto trader recently and found some 98/99 LS1's going for 6-9K. They were higher mileage ones of course but still not too bad. If I was in the market for an F-body I would be real tempted to take an inexpensive 98 LS1 and then do the basic bolt-ons for a mid to low 12 second car. And since LS1 heads flow pretty good stock, you could shoot right into 11's with just a cam.

An A4 LS1 with 3500 stall, mid size cam, headers, catback, Lid and Drag Radials is a very fast, yet very street friendly setup for anyones daily driver. Then you can add a 150 shot for a little extra zip at the track

 

Why settle for low 12s? I'm almost in the mid 11s with only bolt-ons, and my car is my daily driver. Hell, there's still a few things I can do before touching the internals.