^ Depends on the LSA of the cam. The 228 or 224 cam makes power from about 1600-6400 rpm. A narrow LSA makes a tight rpm range powerband.

And I do agree, the MS4 cam (or other aggressive ones) is NOT streetable. Doesn't like low rpm's. Doesn't like to cruise in 2nd at 1500rpm. Wakes up at about 3000rpm.

 

Note the fact that we are discussing an automatic car here, not a manual. 380whp on a DynoJet with an automatic trans and a loose unlocked converter to match the cam WILL NOT HAPPEN with bolt-ons and that mild of a cam.

 

But you don't race dynos. The car in the sig only makes 370 rwhp on a Mustang dyno. I'll race any dynojet 400 rwhp stick car.

Dynos are for tuning.

 

[QUOTE=Bayer-Z28;4454802
And I do agree, the MS4 cam (or other aggressive ones) is NOT streetable. Doesn't like low rpm's. Doesn't like to cruise in 2nd at 1500rpm. Wakes up at about 3000rpm.[/QUOTE]

i know im not agressive as a ms4, but even my semi mild cam needed a set of gears and i still need a tc to be friendly to me. with the 2.73's i had, the car would not get out of its own way until the cam "woke up". its not a d/d for me because of no cats/emissions rules, but other than drinking gas, i consider mine semi streetable. with the 2.73's tho, i didnt even need cruise control on the highway with my cam, seemed to just glide on its own, awesome gas milage.

 

380 rwhp will take a little bit more in an A4. HP is a fun factor to know about when modding your car but it's all about track times dude.

I have the basics done to my 99 TA A4 - borla catback, 160* thermostat, airlid + smooth bellow ( I ran a 13.04 on street tires)
then added drag radials and a Hypertech tune (ran a 12.848)
then torque converter (Vig 3200 = AMAZING), shift kit, tranny cooler, 3.73 gears (went to a 12.466)
THEN LS6 intake, ported (yet to polish) throttle body, and a great tune and I just ran a 12.191 at 110 mph yesterday at the track and the car still had more in it. And that's with full weight, I haven't done any weight reduction (well mind you I also weigh about 85 lbs).

I dynoed my car back in November on a mustang dyno and it put down 290 rwhp and 291 rwtq.... so HP numbers shouldn't be what it is all about, especially with an auto it's going to be harder compared to manuals. You are going to want to consider a lot of other factors, including how much money you want to spend, cause as of right now i've spent about $4k+ (that's including a new set of rims and i've gone through 3 sets of drag radials)

 

"well mind you I also weight about 85 lbs"

TTIWWOP!!!! we need proof of said size...


seriously....i agree with everyone.

but on the other side of the coin....what good are "track times" if you have not got a track to go to??

i've got to drive over 3 hrs to get to the nearest track, and even that track is imfamous for horrible track prep, as well as hundreds of ricers from the miami area.

so for some of us...dyno numbers ARE what it's about. i've had my LS1 for over 3yrs...never been to the track. hell i've only street raced once. but i drive it with ALOT of spirit regularly.

 

This is the internet... we do race dynos But while you make a good point, it's irrelevant to the topic. The original poster was asking what he needed to produce a certain RWHP amount, not a track time.

 

Get a g-tech.

 

What I was trying to get across is that to have the equivelent performance of an M6 380rwhp car he wouldn't necessarily need 380rwhp.

 

Ha, there will be no pictures of my gf posted. I'll vouch for her 85 lbs weight.



Back on topic, in most cases a M6 car will need more horsepower to run the same times as a A4 car. Its very easy to put some sticky tires and a stall on an auto car and cut 1.6-1.7 60ft times and still keep the stock rear. Its a lot harder to cut those 60ft times in a manual and therefore it needs more horsepower to make up for it on the top end.

Horsepower goals are great if you want a dyno sheet to hang up on the refrigerator. I prefer timeslips myself.

 

^ yeah anyway... What was the original Q again??

Oh yeah... .... Anyway... Have we somewhat decided on a route?? Headers, Y and Lid.... Maybe UD pulleys for an added 10hp... just my $0.02...