Starting problem
05-29-2018, 09:02 PM
#1
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Starting problem
Have a 1994 camaro z28 has new battery, alternator, starter got them about 2 months ago about a week the car acted up put the key in the lights come on than go to cranking it it wont crank and try to do it again it cranks right up sometimes it does this and cranks the 2nd time
05-29-2018, 10:11 PM
#2
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Re: Starting problem
When it won’t crank the starter, what is the “SECURITY” light doing? PASS-Key (VATS) can inhibit starter cranking.
Do you have a manual trans (clutch interlock switch) or auto trans (park/neutral switch)? A problem with either of those can prevent cranking.
Possible intermittent problem with the ignition switch.
Use a volt meter to verify 12 volts are reaching the starter relay when the key is turned to the “start” position. Work your way from the correct pin on the ignition switch, to the clutch or P/N switch, to the theft deterrent (starter) relay. See diagram (94 is same as 95):
http://shbox.com/1/starter_charging_95.jpg
Do you have a manual trans (clutch interlock switch) or auto trans (park/neutral switch)? A problem with either of those can prevent cranking.
Possible intermittent problem with the ignition switch.
Use a volt meter to verify 12 volts are reaching the starter relay when the key is turned to the “start” position. Work your way from the correct pin on the ignition switch, to the clutch or P/N switch, to the theft deterrent (starter) relay. See diagram (94 is same as 95):
http://shbox.com/1/starter_charging_95.jpg
05-29-2018, 10:37 PM
#4
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 97
Re: Starting problem
I'll take three guesses. A grinding noise is probably a starter with loose bolts, or a bad solenoid. Most auto parts stores will test the starter for free, if you bring the starter in. I have seen a rash of bad starters lately, sold as "rebuilt," but they did not work, or didn't last long. Any more, if I buy a starter, I have them test it before I leave the store with it.
Check that the wiring to the starter is still healthy, while you have things apart.
Injuneer may have the answer for you, of course. Keep us posted.
08-19-2018, 06:30 PM
#7
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Re: Starting problem
Took the starter off took it to autozone get it check it was good so I thought was the lock cylinder were you put in the key bought that taking the old one off one of the white wires was cut so put the new one in the security light came came off now but still not cranking on the first try ??
08-19-2018, 08:48 PM
#8
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Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
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Re: Starting problem
I'm confused... in post #1 it sounded like when you turned the key to run, all the dash lights came on, then they all went off, and then when you turned the key to start, sometimes it cranked and sometimes it didn’t.
Then when I asked what the “SECURITY” light was doing, you seem to say in post #7 when you reconnected the white wires the “SECURITY” light went off. So.... does that mean the “SECURITY” light has been on all the time? Because the engine should not crank if the light is on, and the engine shouln't start.
Please clarify.
Why was the “SECURITY”light not on when the white wires were cut? Normally that means someone has added a resistor to the circuit to bypass the VATS.
And now it isn’t cranking on first try - but is it grinding? And is it cranking on the second try?
When you installed the new starter, did you check the clearance on the ring gear, and shim the starter if necessary:
http://shbox.com/1/starter_gear.jpg
Then when I asked what the “SECURITY” light was doing, you seem to say in post #7 when you reconnected the white wires the “SECURITY” light went off. So.... does that mean the “SECURITY” light has been on all the time? Because the engine should not crank if the light is on, and the engine shouln't start.
Please clarify.
Why was the “SECURITY”light not on when the white wires were cut? Normally that means someone has added a resistor to the circuit to bypass the VATS.
And now it isn’t cranking on first try - but is it grinding? And is it cranking on the second try?
When you installed the new starter, did you check the clearance on the ring gear, and shim the starter if necessary:
http://shbox.com/1/starter_gear.jpg
Last edited by Injuneer; 08-19-2018 at 08:52 PM.
08-19-2018, 09:01 PM
#9
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Re: Starting problem
The car was good than the cranking problem came than the security light came on a week after the cranking problem so I posted it up here so I had the starter tested it was good so I put it back in and I went on searching people said it could of been the lock cylinder so I bought that when I was taking the old one off one i saw one of the white wires was like cut so I was like that might be the problem why the light is on and the car isnt firing up on the first try so I put the new lock cylinder on the light went off but it's still not cranking on the first try got to do it 2 or 3 times before it finally cranks
08-19-2018, 09:07 PM
#10
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Re: Starting problem
Than today I had time jacked up the car looked down there had someone crank it and saw the starter shoot out like half way out but not fully than crank it again its fully out than it cranked
08-23-2018, 09:43 PM
#11
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Re: Starting problem
Bad Bendix drive on the starter most likely.
No surprise ... especially if you got it at Advance. I have got more bad parts from them than I care to admit. Bad lift pump for a Cummins that if I didnt check with a fuel pressure gauge, would have cost me an injection pump too. Bad starters, alternators, etc. from Advance were the norm when I worked at a garage in college. Hell, I had a caliper blow out A DAY after I installed it on my wifes old Malibu. The manager didnt want to warrenty it and said it could have been installed wrong lol. I use NAPA for pretty much everything if I can. Costs more. Works more betterer. In 15+ years I have had only one or two bad components from NAPA.
And I have seen quite a few things bench-tested as OK and under load, **** the bed.
Interesting side-note - I had an Advance Flunky load test my batteries for my Cummins with them connected. He said they are fine. I insisted they needed to be disconnected and he refused. I disconnected them and another employee load tested them seperately. One was something like 900+ CCA and the other was around 100. So whatever they say, let it in one ear and out the other. They hire people who need jobs. They DO NOT hire car people. And their remanufactured anything is complete garbage.
No surprise ... especially if you got it at Advance. I have got more bad parts from them than I care to admit. Bad lift pump for a Cummins that if I didnt check with a fuel pressure gauge, would have cost me an injection pump too. Bad starters, alternators, etc. from Advance were the norm when I worked at a garage in college. Hell, I had a caliper blow out A DAY after I installed it on my wifes old Malibu. The manager didnt want to warrenty it and said it could have been installed wrong lol. I use NAPA for pretty much everything if I can. Costs more. Works more betterer. In 15+ years I have had only one or two bad components from NAPA.
And I have seen quite a few things bench-tested as OK and under load, **** the bed.
Interesting side-note - I had an Advance Flunky load test my batteries for my Cummins with them connected. He said they are fine. I insisted they needed to be disconnected and he refused. I disconnected them and another employee load tested them seperately. One was something like 900+ CCA and the other was around 100. So whatever they say, let it in one ear and out the other. They hire people who need jobs. They DO NOT hire car people. And their remanufactured anything is complete garbage.
08-26-2018, 12:31 PM
#12
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Re: Starting problem
Well thought it was the starter again so when to check it for the 3rd time now at autozone well not it fail got new starter put it back in well what do you know was the starter all along back to starting on the first turn now glad fixed
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