I have a 96 z28 I bought it from basically a impound lot. Anyways I found the right vat key, the security light turns off I trying jumping the starter and had to bang on it with a hammer so obviously that was bad so I replaced it and still no crank or fuel with the regular ignition. Just don't really know where to start any help is much appreciated. Let me know what to do I am very mechanically capable I am just kinda lost here and don't wanna just throw parts at it or start bypassing stuff obviouslywould like it to start and run normal . Thanks everyone anything helps.

 

Just to confirm what I think you are saying - when you turn the key past “run” the bulb test lights the dash warning lights (including the SECURITY light), and after a few seconds, all the dash warning lights turn off. The SECURITY light is neither flashing nor on solid when you turn the key to “start”. When you turn the key to “start” nothing happens, no clicking, no starter, nothing.

When you turn the key to “run”, do you hear the fuel pump prime for two seconds?

By “the right vats key” how did you determine that the key resistor matched the value the BCM is expecting?

Is the trans manual( (clutch start switch), or auto (trans range switch)?

 

Yes all the dash lights come on and yes the security light turns on for 5 seconds or so then turns off and it just so happens my next door neighbor was a locksmith so he had all 15 vat keys so I went through em all one by one to find the right one that turned off the security light and no no noise from the fuel pump and no fuel pressure at the fuel rail with ignition on. Also yes it is manuel and no click or anything when turning the key to start.

 

If the fuel pump doesn't prime when you turn the key to "run", you need to check fuse #3 in the panel at the end of the dash. That powers the fuel pump and the PCM.

If the fuse is good, use the fuel pump prime connector near the PCM to provides 12V positive to the fuel pump, to see if the pump runs.

From Shoebox:

http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_prime.jpg

If it still doesn't run, with 12V positive still hooked to the prime connector, check pin 30 (gray wire) on the fuel pump relay to see if it has 12V. The fuel pump relay is behind the driver side kick panel.

http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_relay.jpg

Next step would be to check for 12V at the fuel pump connector near the rear axle:

http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_wiring.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_connector.jpg

 

Fuze is good and no power at the relay, also no power at the connection by the axle tested that first just due to easy access and no noise from pump when jumping power to the pump primer wire

My friend said something about the key needing to be programmed for the car but as long as it turns off the security light it is working properly right?

 

If your friend matched the key to the BCM, and the light went off, you should be OK. And, the PASS-Key system does not prevent the fuel pump from priming. It just prevents it from restarting when you turn the key to "START".

The power for the fuel pump is "always hot". It is not switched by the ignition switch. It cannot power the pump until the PCM pulls in the relay. You need to trace the power from the battery to the fuse #3 hot side. Fuse #3 only powers two items - the fuel pump relay and the PCM. If the fuse is not getting power from the battery, the engine is definitely not going to start.

The power from the battery to fuse #3 passes through a fusible link, at the red plastic + box on the passenger inner fender liner. Check to see if the fusible link is blown. See attached from the 96 factory service manual: Trace 12V power all the way to the fuse, including the contacts in the fuse block.

 

I will take a look. Also what do u think about the starter not cranking the engine it is a brand new starter

and what do u mean buy matching the key to the BCM i just ran through all the vat keys to find the right one that turned off the security light

 

Shoebox has the 96 starter diagram. You need to be sure the cable from the battery to starter is sound, not corroded and making good contact. The block is the starter ground, so the mating surfaces of the starter to block has to be clean. The grounds from the battery to ground points G100 and G101 have to be sound, not corroded.

The 12V path from the ignition switch, through the TDR and other through clutch start switch through the TDR need to be verified, BCM has to be providing ground to TDR based on reading key correctly, and finally TDR has to be asking 12V via the purple wire to the starter solenoid.

If the starter cranks when you jumper it, that points to the path from the ignition switch to the purple wire. The BCM circuit boards can be a problem due to aging solder joints. Those can be DIY repaired.

http://shbox.com/1/starter_charging_96.jpg

 

Fuze links are all good passing 12v through em and have power at the #3 fuze on the diagram it shows that the orange wire is the always hot wire which I am getting 12v at the relay on the orange wire connection to relay but no power at any other connections/wires at relay

Also I am not getting power at the connector for the clutch in switch

 

You will not get 12V at pin 30 unless:

- key is in “RUN”

- PCM is supplying 12V to pin 85 (dk green/white wire)

- there is a good ground to pin 86 (black/white wire).

The PCM will not supply 12V to pin 85 unless the BCM has read the key resistance and sent the “fuel enable” signal to the PCM, and the engine is cranking to produce cam position pulse signal from the distributor. There is a code for lack of the fuel enable signal (P1626). There is a code for a missing low resolution pulse from the distributor (P1371). But that last code won't set unless the engine is cranking.

Going back to the test using the fuel pump prime connector, you indicated there was no power at relay pin 30. If you had 12V at the prime connector, did you check for 12V at pin 87A? If there was no pass-through from pin 87A to pin 30 the relay is suspect.

 

If you had 12V at the prime connector, did you check for 12V at pin 87A? If there was no pass-through from pin 87A pin 30 the relay is suspect

Which is pin 87A and i guess i should ask did u want me to be testing the wires with the relay connected or disconnected. I have been pulling the relay off for easy access to terminals

 

All the connectors and the relay need to be in place. If necessary, pierce the insulation of the correct color wire with a straight pin on the meter red lead to read the voltage. Find a good chassis ground for the meter black lead.

From the wiring diagram (link in post #6 "96-Fuel Pump.pdf") , pin 87A is the one with the red wire attached. That is the connection from the prime connector. How did you apply 12V to the prime connector?

As far as the clutch switch, that gets power from the ignition switch (only when held in the "START" position), on a yellow wire. Also should be 12V power to the TDR yellow wire on pin C1, from the ignition switch. And with the clutch depressed, on the brown wire to pin C2 from the clutch switch

Be sure you have the correct switch on the clutch pedal. There are two switches... one for the circuit to the TDR and another to release the cruise control when you press the clutch.

From Shoebox's writeup: