LT1 MAF prices?
#4
Re: LT1 MAF prices?
I have no problems at idle or under light throttle, but if I get on it it hessitates and kind of feels jerky. What else could it be? If you know of a good place to get a new one let me know. I don't want to take chances with a used one.
#5
Re: LT1 MAF prices?
You really need to do some diagnostics. Check for 12v at the pink wire at the MAF with the key ON. That is a common problem (especially on 96s, it seems). The MAF is an expensive part just to go buying without checking things out. They don't go bad that often.
Some scan logs would tell you exactly what the MAF was doing.
Some scan logs would tell you exactly what the MAF was doing.
#7
Re: LT1 MAF prices?
Do you know if I can take the MAF anywhere, like Autozone, and have it tested. I'll check that wire, what if I do or don't have 12 volts what will that mean? I've heard that SLP takes Z06 MAFs and tunes them to work with LT1s or LS1 Camaros. Do you think it's just a waste of money?
#8
Re: LT1 MAF prices?
If you don't have +12V on the pink wire, there is no power supply to the MAF sensor, and it isn't going to work. As Shoebox mentions, it is a very common problem to have a break in that wire, inside the harness. There is also a fuse that feeds the pink wire, and you need to check that as well, if there is no power on the pink wire. Also check the connector for corrosion or damage.
#9
Re: LT1 MAF prices?
I checked that wire, it's good. So I reset the code with a scanner that I have and it hasn't come back. I looked at the inside of the MAF and it looks brand new. I still had a problem with it jerking under acceleration, so I put ZMAX in the fuel and oil. After 3 days of driving there are no problems. Wierd huh.
#10
Re: LT1 MAF prices?
Not really, Any backfire can set off a MAF code. But if it's backfiring regularly you have a problem.
I'm gonna say that it was probably just a fluke, and everything is ok, but if it's still acting up and you think it might be the MAF:
Unplug it, let the car warm up. As soon as the computer re-learns, it should sound about the same. Drive it around and see if you still have a jerking problem. If so, it's not the MAF.
I'm gonna say that it was probably just a fluke, and everything is ok, but if it's still acting up and you think it might be the MAF:
Unplug it, let the car warm up. As soon as the computer re-learns, it should sound about the same. Drive it around and see if you still have a jerking problem. If so, it's not the MAF.
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