I'm well overdue on flushing the cooling system on my '95 Formula, but since the GM dealer says they won't open open the engine drain plugs, knock sensor, bleed screws for the $130 they charge, I might as well do it myself.

Note that my LOW COOLANT light has also just gone on, even though the level is fine.

I've flushed many. many old cars over the years, but -- in addition to those listed above ---- these questions (all from the steps listed in Chilton Repair Manual) are among the reasons I've put this off:

(1) the manual says to flush with a garden hose, even though it does NOT call for running the engine to prevent air pockets --does this make sense?

(2) the water here is the hardest, most mineral-filled you can find -- could I dump in distilled, or do I need the hose pressure?

(3) It says "the manufacturer recommends adding its cooling system sealer any time the coolant is changed" How nececessary is that?

(4) the manual says "On 1997 and earlier V8 engines. turn ignition switch from On to Run then off, otherwise LOW COOLANT light will come on." Might doing this shut OFF my already on low coolant light?


I love this car, but hate how easily they are to suffer from fragile technology... I know the LT-1 has cooling issues so I really want to help keep this car going.
But all of the above is why I like my working on my old Camaro, and dread opening the hood of the 'Bird..

Thank in advance for any educated advice and opinions you can give...

 

Found methods recommended by Shoe Box and Chris Morris. Good info in both, and I see that the Low Coolant light has been a topic as well. I'll cross my fingers and jump into this tomorrow.

 

How did it go?