nodnarb481

I have a few questions because the instructions that came with my B&M gauge are too vague for my confused mind...

It says i need to hook it up to the ignition switch or fuse block.(an accessory or ignition circuit that is hot when key is on) Do i hook it up to the ignition fuse itself? and how?

It also says to hook an end of the wire to the dashboard instrument light wires or terminal board.. where are these?

how much of a difference is it between cutting the line and putting the T-fitting there or just screwing the sender unit into the trans pressure port thing?

How many ways are there through the firewall? I read the PCM is a good place but Ill probly have to buy more wire since im mounting my guage in the vent on the drivers side next to the wheel.

Thanks for any help... ill probly have more questions.

WhyHelloOfficer

When it says "Ignition Switch or Fuse Block" -- it is talking about finding a switched 12v power source. There is one on the fuse block, just look for the spade connector that is labeled "12v." You can splice into that wire (ideally by soldering) if you'd like. You can also splice into a power wire to your CD player if you'd rather do that.

The best place to run the signal wire from the trans temp sending unit to the gauge itself is through the hole in the firewall right near the PCM. Just make sure to get some more wire and you'll be fine.

Easiest location is the test port in the transmission on the upper driver side of the transmission. It isn't necessarily the MOST accurate, but it'll give you a good idea of what is going on.

Do a search on Transmission Temp guages -- there are quire a few threads that have asked the same questions that you have. I referred to them when I wired mine up, and mine is still working great.

Injuneer

The "switched" spade lug on the panel at the end of the dash is labeled "IGN" on my Formula. Get a 1/4" female quick connector from Radio Shack, and it will slip right over the spade lug.

The instrument lamp dimmer rheostat is located right to the left of the headlight switch. Probe with a voltmeter and find the terminal that varies with the position of the rheostat.

nodnarb481

Alright I am trying to figure out all this.. the sender shouldbe a problem.. the sending unit i have is 1/8" NPT and i think thats the right size. When looking at the fuses on the side of the dash do i pull a fuze out and connect it to that? or do i need to pull the dash out and find the wires and such? I am having a hard time getting the dash apart to find the right things.

Ill go get a voltmeter.. is there anyway to pull that part out where the dimmer and headlight switches are? would that make this all easier?

Injuneer

There is a small square opening in the fuse block, labeled "IGN". It is visible simply by pulling the fuse panel cover off. Inside the square opening is a thin, 1/4" wide blade (aka "spade lug"). You want to connect a wire to that blade. The way you do that is to get a 1/4" male quick connect connctor at Radio Shack, and crimp it onto the end for the wire you want to connect. You don't have to pull the dash, search for wires, etc.

That provides you with a +12V switched power supply for the guage.

Then you need to pop the cover off the lower dash, over the headlight switch, and pull the plastic cover off the bottom of the dash (right above your knees). That exposes the wiring for the headlight switch and the dimmer rheostat. If you simply want the light in the gauge to turn on and off with your headlights, find the wire on the headlight switch that only has +12V on it when the headlights are "on". If you want the gauge light to operate with your dash lights, and dim with the dash lights, you find the terminal on the dimmer rheostat that varies the voltage when you turn the dimmer wheel.

nodnarb481

thank you very much.. you are a god. i guess i have my project set for me tomorrow than

nodnarb481

my only question is this.. i removed the part above my knees but that didnt give me much access to the headlight switches.. what exactly do i remove to get to those or those wires and how?

Injuneer

The panel right in front of your knees, with the hatch release button in it. If that doesn't do it, it would only leave the full bezel surround, but I don't remember pulling that off (its 7 years since I did my gauge install). The bezel pulls off, but you have to be careful with the plastic pins that stick into the spring clips surrounding the instrument cluster.

nodnarb481

I removed the panel right in front of my knees.. i can see the wires to the light switches through a small square hole that i can fit a few fingers through but thats it.. i dont really know how to identify the right wire to the headlight switch or how to even splice the wire into it... ill see tomorrow what else i can pull off

01Z

Another place to tap into your instrument lights is behind the dash fuse block. There is one screw holding it in on the camaro. You can pull it out far enough to get to the instrument fuse wiring. I wire tapped into the back side of the instrument light fuse holder for my pillar gauges.

nodnarb481

do you solder? or do you do something else? what exactly is your definition of tapping?


reallly.. thanks for all the help everyone

Injuneer

You need to connect a "new" wire to an "old" wire. These aren't critical connections.... but they need to be clean, so the gauge will get the full voltage on the circuit. You can get a small plastic clip that splices a new wire into an existing one... they are call "Scotch-Locks" and they will have them at Radio Shack. You put both wires in the plastic clip, close it around the wires, and use a pliers to press a small metal blade through the insulation of both wires, connecting them electrically. That sort of splice it fine for the gauge wiring, but not all the great for more critical uses, like an O2 sensor.

To find the correct wire, you need a volt meter (or the wiring diagram ). Set the volt meter to DC volts, connect the red lead to the wire you want to test, and the black lead to a good chassis ground. Turn on the switch, and see if the meter reads +12V. You want a wire that has +12V ONLY when the parking lights or headlights are on. If you want the lights to dim, start hooking the red volt meter lead to the various wires on the dimmer control, and see which wire has a voltage only when the parking or headlights are on, and varies when you move the dial on the dimmer control.

With my Formula, I found an unused connector in the bundle near the headlight switch, that had +12V when the parking or headlights were on. I suspect it was used for the T/A fog lights, which the Formula doesn't have. My gauge lights don't dim with the dash lights, but then I never find a need to dim the dash lights. And if I did, I would still want my AutoMeter tach and gauge lights to stay bright so they are easilly readable in the dark. Put the little red color cap on the AutoMeter gauge bulb, and it will match the red dash lighting.

nodnarb481

okay cool.. you said your fuse block had a small opening labeled ign... mine doesnt have any thing labled IGN.. unless it is only labeled that in the diagram..god i hate when the littlest of things confuse me

nodnarb481

if i wanted to attach the lights to the dimmer or HVAC fuse then I could just use another female connector right? how do you get the Fuse box out to splice wires.. its bigger then the hole

Injuneer

Pull the cover off, and look at the diagram on the cover. I'm looking at my 94 (may be different than the 95 - they change a few things each year) cover right now. At the far left side, the top fuse is labeled 1 "Air Bag", under that is #5 "PCM IGN", under that is #9 "Gages", and under that a hole labled "IGN". Its actually a bit "L" shaped. Inside that hole is the blade you need to connect to.

I have a picture of my connection somewhere..... I'll see if I can find it.