How does it retain the auto down circuit and functionality? Also what about the timed power after shutting off the car?

 

Lots of questions on this from everybody else, and I am confused my self. Some more information for clarity would be excellent. -- OR just wire some up and sell them and you have a customer right here.

 

I can post up a scan of the window switch wiring off my Haynes manual. If you could photoshop in the relay wiring that would be great.

 

You can find a power window schematic on my Tech Page.

Two relays in each door. No express down or RAP functions are bothered because the relays are next to the motor.

 

So are you telling me that, although the drivers side switch rolls the pass. window up and down, but the pass. switch only goes down(and i've replaced the pass. switch with no effect) that its the drivers side switch then....just to clarify, plz excuse the repetition but the thread is taking off in 2 directions.....hard to get help, and if i made a new one, then the first reply would be....."use the handy search feature....dur dur dur)....

 

Isnt 8 guage a little overkill? Did you run that all the way from the power source (im assuming the fuse box), or just inside the doors? What size is the stock wiring?

The larger works better because it has less voltage drop. I dont know if it actually lets more current flow. It probably lowers current flow, as current comes down as voltage rises. If the stock wiring was too small, it would simply burn through, not flow less current.

So the way I see it, larger wire = less voltage drop. More voltage at the motor = faster running. More voltage also = less current, and makes the motors more efficient, and should make them last longer.

Smaller stock sized wire would provide sufficiant current flow (obviously as it doesnt burn up), but is small enough that you probably get a volt or two drop from the power source. That makes the motor run slower, and pull more current, and fail sooner.

I dont what you guys are thinking saying under-current can hurt a motor. The only way thats possible is if your battery was dead. The problem here is undervoltage. That causes the motor to use more current, and leads to burned windings.

Anyone know how much current these motors use? If not I could figure it out later. We could size the wire accourdingly. Seems to me 8 guage is overkill, and would be much harder to work with. 14 guage should handle 20 amps, 12 - 30 amps, 10 - 40 amps, 8 - 50 amps. Seems like a good 12 or 10 guage at the most would work well. I wonder what sock size it

 

According to the schematic, the stock wires are 3mm², which is the equivalent of 12 AWG.

Some of the problem probably stems from the amount of switches and connectors the juice for the motor has to run through. Just having the direct power and ground available by the relay would bypass all that mess.

 

I didnt realize that they used that much current.

All that other crap all adds up to more voltage drop as well.

 

I would think that 10 gauge wire is plenty, its easy to work with and crimp on connectors are available. One DPDT relay for each motor would clean things up if you could find em.


If im running the 2 10 gauge wires to the battery i would want to have a fuse or circuit breaker like stock, any body know what the motors draw? or what the stock breaker is rated for?

 

If that's the case, then yeah ... it makes perfect sense now!


Hmmm .... time to contact Bluff City Electronics for a 12 VDC DPDT 30A relay and simplify things a little.


Thanks for working this out!

 

I simplified mine a while back. Battery to switch to windows. All with 12 gauge wire. Everything has been holding up fine. Best part of it is the windows go up and down any time, so I can drop the windows as soon as I sit down. The only bad thing is no auto-down feature on the driver's side anymore.

 

I hate that feature sometimes. Its annoying, lol.

 

Does anyone Know where I can get the Relay Harnesses cheap? I am getting tired of soldering them, also I have pics if anyone can post the give me your E-Mail

Joe

 

OK the new pictures should be up (Thanx LWillmann) I have built two kits for freinds and will sell kits to install in your cars. I can say with 100% certainty that this once and for all fixes the damn window problem I had to PULL on the windows to get them to come up and the same setup works great now. I am putting together a setup with instructions to sell if anyone is interested just let me know I wanted to make a "Plug & Play" system but I can't find the connector that plugs directly into the harness that goes to the motor I can get motor harnesses but it'll drive the cost up about 20 dollars (otherwise you only have to cut two wires in each door) I will sell the kit for 50 Bucks including all Heatshink tubing to install it neatly Give me some feedback if anyone wants the system

PS if anyone hates the express down feature on the drivers side I can make a little harness that removes it

 

By the way ALL and I mean ALL features of your window work as they always did express down, AND RAP! (retained Accessory Power) you ONLY CUT the two wires that go to the motor in EACH door! so there is a total of 2 Relays in each Door. I use #8 because of the long run from the battery + to the relay in the door If you buy My kit, I will include detailed instructions.